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lukits01

Auto R33 Stock To 250rwkw With Hks 2535 And Now Rb30+hks 3037 Pro S

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I thought I would share my experiences modifying an Auto R33 GTS-25t since Im nearing the end of my modifying experience.

Bought the car totally stock down to its rims and 205 tyres

1996 R33 GTS-25t Skyline Series II

with 69.000 Km on the odometer mid 2002

Took it down the 1/4 mile best I could get was 15 Flat

STEP 1

Apexi Air Filter

TRUST V-SPL Intercooler Kit

3" Front Pipe

High Flow Cat

Trust MX Cat-back

Profec B Spec I EBC

With stock ECU it would hit fuel cut with any increase in boost

then again, I had no idea what boost it was set at because I was still using the boost gauge in the stock instrument cluster

Never went to 1/4 mile or Dyno but I can tell the most difference came from the FMIC followed by the EBC followed by Exhaust

STEP 2

Fed up with fuel cuts I got myself a SAFCII

along with

Bosch 910 Fuel Pump mounted externally

Malpassi 2:1 Fuel Pressure Regulator

HKS256 Exhaust Camshaft + Cam gear

Apexi Boost Gauge

King Springs (The damn thing looked like a 4WD, needed some lowering)

Replace Timing Belt

Result 273Hp@11Psi

post-7539-1123852545.jpg

At this stage I should have been satisfied with what Ive got but No I got used to it and wanted even more, it sorta got out of hand after this

STEP 3

Wolf3D Programmable ECU

HKS 2535-56T

3"Dump Pipe

Nismo FPR

Greddy Oil Catch Can

MV Automatics Shift Kit (Valvebody upgrade)

Auto tranmission cooler

Stainless Inlet Piping

Result 300Hp@14Psi

post-7539-1123852586.jpg

Running a very conservative tune due to stock injectors kept ignition timing on the mild side. The shift kit + wolf made driving just that little bit less comfortable but on Snow mode and a little less gas it wasnt that different to stock

Any more power pass this point is going to be a concern to the gearbox so I thought a transcooler would be a worthwhile investment

Took it down the 1/4 mile

13.034 @ 109.89Mph

post-7539-1123852612.jpg

So close yet so far to 12s ehhe

Damn these 205 tyres!

still manages a top mph of 113

STEP 4

450cc High Flow injectors from http://www.deatschwerks.com/products.html

HKS 256/264 Camshaft

GAB adjustable damping shocks + RSR springs

Blitz Sonic Filter Copy (With heatshield)

Result 328@12PSI

post-7539-1123852647.jpg

Well the cams definitely makes some difference, More power for less boost. Thats always good.

The auto gearbox seems to be holding up well so far, who knows how long it'll last even with the modifications

It just never ends! this time the coil packs arent giving me enough spark

DAMN THESE SERIES II COILS! Not sure how much boost I should be running with stock internals, or how much the turbo can supply before running out of efficiency.

Guess final step would be

Splitfire Coils

Rims+Tyres

STEP 5

Maybe I shouldnt have said final step cause somehow one thing led to another and due to busted piston rings the following things are now in the car

RB30 Block, crank, rods

ARP Rod Bolts

CP Pistons

Head serviced and polished

Splitfire Coils

Nismo Fuel Pump

SS Exhaust manifold

Autometer oil temp, water temp, oil pressure gauge, Gearbox temp gauge, Volt gauge

Endless SSS brake pads

HKS SSQV BOV

255/50/16 Mickey Thompson Street ET Drag Radials on 300ZX Rims

Still running in the engine at this point but the torque is awesome, I drive arround in SNOW mode which is practically 2nd gear and it feels like Im on 1st gear in the old RB25. Who knows what will happen to the auto gearbox haha

Result 332.6 rwHp thanks to Steve and Steve and John, from Top Racing

post-7539-1150986942.jpg

The turbo is too small, restricting exhaust gas flow, making the stainless manifold glow red hot with superheated air, looking for something slightly bigger in the future, but even with this much power, traction is an issue not sure what can be done. Cant wait to hit the 1/4 mile with the mickey thompson.

Tried it once and I blew my hose clamp ahhaha hoping for more luck next time

They dyno comparison shows the increase in mid range going that extra 500cc

Finally got arround to getting proper times at the drag strip

post-7539-1159410680.jpg

Best ET so far of 12.5@114Mph

60' of 2.089

The Torque Converter is really limitting the launch capabilities of the car considering the tyres I have on them. Only able to launch at arround 2750RPM at best (and thats with car inching forward before the green light) And my rear shocks have just shat itself (I'm pretty sure there is no oil left in them ahhah)

Next time hope to be able to get a sub 2-sec 60 footer. Would be better with a higher stall but at its current state, should still be able to get further into the 12s

STEP 6

After a trip to 2007 Tokyo Autosalon, couldn't help myself splurging a little

HKS 3037 Pro S 56T

Top Fuel Power Neo

Apexi Grounding Kit

Engine Damper Kit

HKS Hi-Power 409 3.5" Mild Steel Exhaust

Result 435rwHp@21Psi

Went back to stock exhaust manifold, those low mount stainless manifold are crap and crack easily

Much better Power delivery now, more linear, more controllable

First gear is actually usefull again!

1/4 Mile time

11.621@114.21mph

With overdrive OFF, it was hitting the rev limitter at top of 3rd Gear

with overdrive ON reached 121.45Mph

Suspension Mods:

Whiteline Swaybars Front & Rear

JJR Castor Rods

Rear Camber Bushes

Greddy Type S Coilovers

GTR Rear Strut Brace

Nismo Rear Strut Brace

Do-Luck Chasis Brace

HICAS Lock Bar

Suspension Pineapples

post-7539-1178018222.jpg

post-7539-1178460292.jpg

Edited by lukits01

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Nice!

I also plan to do my Auto S2 R33 up abit (180-200rwkw goal) and your post has been informative in telling me what I need to modify to get it.

What do you think you would've got on the dyno after step 1?

Thanks.

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Nice!

I also plan to do my Auto S2 R33 up abit (180-200rwkw goal) and your post has been informative in telling me what I need to modify to get it.

What do you think you would've got on the dyno after step 1?

Thanks.

I dunno, probably around 170ish rwKw with a very shitty power curve

I heard Series II ECUs can handle more boost before hitting the fuel cut but it didnt seem that way from my point of view

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Interesting result, still appears to hold power well to redline.

Does it feel as if it wants to rev to 6.5k still?

Next time your down at your new tuner have him give it a quick power run in SHOOT6 or SHOOT6F mode. Most likely you will see a small increase in power. It will then be comparable to the last one done on SST's. :)

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Interesting about the HKS2535 turbo , they're supposed to use a compressor in between the 2530 (60mm) and 2871/GT-RS (71mm) . I think HKS blurb quotes 69mm 84T so probably the closest available compressor for the high performance GT28 turbine .

If you can read the turbos ID tag may I have its numbers please . Also if you remove it some pics would be handy .

Cheers A .

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Do me a favour and delete all references to boost cut, there is no such thing, The standard R33GTST ECU doesn’t even know what the boost is. It is excessive airflow as noted by the AFM which sends the ECU in to rich and retard mapping. Call it "R&R Mapping" for short.

I love the way the turbo runs out of airflow and can’t hold the set boost level.

I noticed that you have used the standard RB30 conrods (did you also use the standard RB30 rod bolts?). If so, I wouldn’t be going much over 300 rwkw (400 rwhp).

:P cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid

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Nice to see the auto getting some more airtime

I have been modding my auto R32... nowhere ner as much as you though. I took it from less than 100rwkw in stock form to 155rwkw in its present state with more-or-less the stock ECU :P

Love the way it drives...

best of luck with the rest of the upgrades!

Warren

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Point taken hehe and editted

Using ARP Rod Bolts, Was aiming for 300rwKw but considering my right foot is still not up to the task of handling 250rwKw I'll hold on the turbo upgrade

I havent redlined it that much, again was more concerned with the first few thousand RPM. Gay thing about the Auto is it can randomly and unexpectedly kick down on you, and with this much torque... its scary

The turbo if I remember correctly say 2535-56T there are some other numbers on the tag but I dont remember what it said

The Dyno I believe is the same for most of my graphs except that time I went to hyperdrive

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I noticed in your last step you went to a different exhaust manifold.

Is it a high mount or low mount and does it have the same type of heat sheilding as the factory item?

I ask as the last dyno chart posted has an inlet temp of 55degrees, nearly 30 over ambient where it doesnt happen that far previously.

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I noticed in your last step you went to a different exhaust manifold.

Is it a high mount or low mount and does it have the same type of heat sheilding as the factory item?

I ask as the last dyno chart posted has an inlet temp of 55degrees, nearly 30 over ambient where it doesnt happen that far previously.

Yea noticed that too, the stainless manifold is a low mount manifold

One of those internal gate manifolds that place the turbo in the stock location

Its only slightly better than stock, and Im starting to wonder if its worth the effort

Theres no heatshield on it so was thinking of doing 2 things:

1. Fabricate a heatshield for it

2. Move the air filter into the front bumper in front of the wheel arch where the stock intercooler used to be. Since its a Blitz style air filter, it has the shield which stops water from the wheels from spraying all over the element

Ive allready raised the bonnet with washer in an attempt to get the heat out of the engine bay as well as to get more clearance on the intake manifold

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IT of 55 just means the sensor is where Dyno Dynamics suggest it to be.

For a Turbocharged car however, its essentially useless.

Just have the sensor in the ambient temp somewhere not near the engine bay

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Steve told me about your car lukits01 as im thinking of going the HKS GT2535 turbs on a rb30det aswell (have it on the 20det). Whats it like to drive? boost come on like a jet?

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I hope Lukits01 doesnt mind, but i though i'd add my mods and progress to his thread to keep it all in one spot... just let me know if you want me to start a new one mate.

My car is a SI R33 4 door Auto. 128,000 kms M-spec

I've attached a graph of combined dyno runs i've done as i changed things, all on same dyno, all tuned by me.

The BLACK line is as i recieved it ... (on this dyno std r33 autos are about 115 rwkw) , this had a Fujitsuboto "jasma" spec cat back and a 3" full dump fitted and a pod filter. So it had abit more that a stocker.

The GREEN line is LINK plug in computer, converted to MAP sensor, Splitfire coils. Boost was 11psi rolling back to 9 psi from midrange onwards ( Using the links boost controller to roll it off, as trying to maintain 11 psi actually closed the wastegate sooner and power dropped off... by asking it to do lower boost the gate stays open and power stay higher for longer) , R34 GTT SMIC upgrade. ran a 14.3 @ 98MPH 2.95 60' !

The PINK line is Hiflow turbo (VG30 rear housing, new turbonetics center, Garrett Stage 3 To3 Turbine wheel, Rx-7 front cover with a V-trim hiflow wheel (6 blades not 8 like the V1/V2 has) , 550cc Nismo injectors, MV Automatics Shift kit, FACTORY Airbox fitted, with Apexi filter. Bosch 040 intank fitted.

Power was abit lower than i expected, even limited by the cooler size, so i checked the exhaust back pressure, and to my horror saw 11 psi BP on 12 psi boost. !!

Ran a 14.5 @ 102.7mph 2.5 60' (with MT ET Street tyres, but note it was raining .... they had 20 cars running over track to dry it out abit !!!! )

The RED , YELLOW & BLUE lines. Just removed rear muffler, and welded on a temp cannon cheapie (2 new SMB's on the way soon) .. Got to 207 rwkw doing constant ramp runs with changes etc .... , then let it cool and did the final run in BLUE.... So fair indication a front mount cooler would help lots to keep the power constantly around the blue range, would dare say it would be back the the red area 1/2 way into a drag run.

With heat soak. Just ran tonight , finally got a 13. Ran 13.831 @ 109.75 MPH 2.59 60'

I just cant get it off the line.... tried all different styles 60' was very consistent between 2.59 to 2.68.

I guess the cooler and cams help yours out alot Lukits ? (edit, got a genuine hybrid)

Also called Mike at MV Autos to look into a 2800-3000 rpm Street stall converter (retains lockup too!) .. that will help immensely i would imagine ! Still the good thing about it is you lift the bonnet, and it looks totally stock... full heatshields etc :thanks:

Gary

Gazfix%20R33%20Auto%20Dyno%20progress.jpg

Edited by Fastrotor

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Steve told me about your car lukits01 as im thinking of going the HKS GT2535 turbs on a rb30det aswell (have it on the 20det). Whats it like to drive? boost come on like a jet?

Boost pretty much always there as you can see from the dyno's absolutely no/little lag. doesnt really come on like a switch, very linear. Great to drive arround with, control the ammount of boost with the throttle, and the torque makes overtaking easy hehe

I hope Lukits01 doesnt mind, but i though i'd add my mods and progress to his thread to keep it all in one spot... just let me know if you want me to start a new one mate.

I just cant get it off the line.... tried all different styles 60' was very consistent between 2.59 to 2.68.

I guess the cooler and cams help yours out alot Lukits ? ARC cooler is being procured soon from Japan...

I dont mind, quite the opposite actually. Nice results very similar to mine. Is that torque units suppose to be Nm? or LB/ft or KG/m? cause you have more torque than a Mercedez Benz 6.2L V12 Twin Turbo

Cooler will definitely give you a big gain and more consistent power runs and ARC coolers are suppose to be one of the best, wish that was available when I was looking arround for coolers. Cams really only needed when you change turbo or if you want that little bit more midrange. I just happen to come accross my set 2nd hand relatively cheap so I went for it.

and as for getting of the line, I fine stalling it up with left foot braking and e-brake then letting go at the last yellow lights to be the best. after that its just throttle control. Tyres offcourse play huge role in 60' time. Then again what would I know, I managed to spin on the drag strip once ahahhaha narrowly missing the wall

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Is that torque units suppose to be m? or LB/ft or KG/m? cause you have more torque than a Mercedez Benz 6.2L V12 Twin Turbo

Torque is multiplied though the gearbox ratios and the diff ratios when running on a dyno. Hence not comparable to engine torque quoted by manufacturers.

:D cheers :wub:

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Yeah its in Newton Meters, and as Gary has pointed out , its rear wheel torque, not motor torque.

Yes i think the cooler will help immensly.... Does anyone reading this know if the ARC coolers are able to fit without cutting the reinforcement bar whatsoever ..?? I just like my insurance thats all.

Gary

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I ended up getting a genuine Hybrid GT cooler (after much searching for a genuine distributor, wayyy to many fakes around!) Decided i didn't want to spend over twice as much for the arc, plus the ensuing wait from Japan.

Didn't buy the piping kit as i detest the over the radiator method, and also cutting holes in my car ! Will plumb it up myself. (yet to see the nightmare i could have let myself in for)

Also just spoke to Mike at MV few minutes ago and he's finally got a spare converter out of a R31 he can mod and send up for me to swap over, as i didnt want to pull mine out and then wait to refit.

Exciting ! I'll try to have it all in by the end of month, before next circuit sprints.

Gary

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