Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I would just like to know what is the deal with head swaps amongst the RB family ?

In particular an RB26 head on a NEO RB25 ?

Read about this on the first Top Secret demo GTT....would like to know what is involved ie is it pretty much bolt on ? or would it be easier to just get an RB26 in the first place ?

Besides the plenum and fuel rail etc....anything else that needs to be changed along with the headswap ?

Also just out of curiousity....excuse my ignorance.....but what combo makes an RB24 ? Its based on an RB20 right ?

Edited by shonen
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84754-head-swapping/
Share on other sites

NEO RB25 also has solid lifters.

If you change the head to RB26 then most of the rest would be different, wiring particularly would be an issue.

I reckon you would be better either putting in a full RB26 or keeping your head and putting an RB30 bottom end under it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84754-head-swapping/#findComment-1536259
Share on other sites

haha cool...thanks adam.

Its something Ill definetly consider if I keep the car....

So with an RB30 bottem end....what would the capacity of this RB30/RB25 hybrid be ?

gonna decide at the end of the year whether or not to sell.....

going to a 4 cylinder.....petrol prices are crazy these days and I live too far out to keep up with it.....

yes yes im a sellout/soft etc etc...heard it all :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84754-head-swapping/#findComment-1536317
Share on other sites

RB24 is made by using a slightly modified RB20 block with an RB26 crank, RB26 rods, and slightly oversize pistons (custom to suit the 26 rods) it still uses RB20 head but with the longer stroke and slightly larger bore it is now 2.4 litre RB20. ;)

for your car go the 26 swap. Or even 26/30. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84754-head-swapping/#findComment-1536989
Share on other sites

haha cool...thanks adam.

Its something Ill definetly consider if I keep the car....

So with an RB30 bottem end....what would the capacity of this RB30/RB25 hybrid be ?

gonna decide at the end of the year whether or not to sell.....

going to a 4 cylinder.....petrol prices are crazy these days and I live too far out to keep up with it.....

yes yes im a sellout/soft etc etc...heard it all :P

A 4 banger can drink just as much if you have a lead foot!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84754-head-swapping/#findComment-1537990
Share on other sites

Honestly though, anyone who buys a skyline has to be a little bit of a lead foot themselves :D

Alright alright...the petrol thing was just an excuse :P

lookin at an sti or an evo 7 next year sometime........car is getting old......has me thinking.......if I do end up keeping it then I wanna got the whole nine yards and prob go for the 26 swap......until then I want to stop spending money on car for a little while.

so just doing some research while I save for the time being.... so one last question for now regarding the 26 swap. Would a GTR power fc be adequate or would I need to go for something like a Haltek or motec etc ?

anyways thanks for the info guys......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84754-head-swapping/#findComment-1538492
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...