Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just got a front pair of these shocks revalved for stiffer springs etc, and they are AMAZING.

ive had japanese coilovers (tanabe) before, ive borrowed my mates cheap and nasty HSDs and now ive got bilsteins, they are so much better than anything else ive had.

both more comfortable and handle heaps better

cant wait to take em out to the track!

Edited by salad

if this group buy is still on can i check the availability of the front Hduty swaybar - BNF28 and the rear XHduty swaybar - BNR26X

is there a kit which includes the bushes and links aswell?

if this group buy is still on can i check the availability of the front Hduty swaybar - BNF28 and the rear XHduty swaybar - BNR26X

is there a kit which includes the bushes and links aswell?

PM sent

:no: cheers :D

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi sydneykid

im interested in these and can i have sum prices inc shipping to melbourne PM me..

-Front & Rear Springs (im looking to lower my car only 25mm front and rear coz i have 19inch" rims and any lower it will rub. so would u supply lower 25mm springs?)

-Front Bilstein & Rear Bilstein Shocks

cheers

bill

SK i have lowered my car quiet abit...

Center of rim to gaurd on both front and rear is 295mm, and im not exaggerating at all lol

I am goin to grab a few bits off you to go with some whiteline stuff i have (mainly after some traction so adjustin the camber as much as i can), is bein that low going to damage anythin (apart from my kit and exhaust.. hahaha)??? I noticed better handlin when it was 10-15mm higher but i prefer the low look.

SK i have lowered my car quiet abit...

Center of rim to gaurd on both front and rear is 295mm, and im not exaggerating at all lol

I am goin to grab a few bits off you to go with some whiteline stuff i have (mainly after some traction so adjustin the camber as much as i can), is bein that low going to damage anythin (apart from my kit and exhaust.. hahaha)??? I noticed better handlin when it was 10-15mm higher but i prefer the low look.

Shoot, where to start............just a short list of stuf that your are risking;

1. Drive shaft breakage is possible

2. CV joints will wear very fast (they are also soaking up extra power due to the extreme angles)

3. Steering tie rods (front and rear) are under extreme loads

4. Every single bush in the front and rear suspension will wear out excessively fast

5. The strut towers will eventually crack (both front and rear) due to the lack of bump absortion

6. The rear cradle will crack around the upper and lower control arm joints also due to the lack of bump absorbtion

7. You will suffer poor traction, so it won't stop or accelerate anywhere near its potential

8. The front and rear windscreens are stressed members, so they will eventually crack as well

9. Every electronic component is being subject to higher than its design levels of NVH, so they will eventually start to fail one by one

10. Your chiropractor will make a small fortune fixing your lower back problems

That's pretty much the major items, there are quite a few minor ones of course, but I think you get the drift.

:D cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid
Alright Gary... whats the lowest i can be without stressing the suspension etc too much?? :O Dont tell me 330mm coz thats heaps hahaha

I use camber correction as the first measuring stick as to how much a car can be lowered. When the camber gets grossly excessive, then you know you have lowered it too far. This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard;

Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear

360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters

350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit

340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits

Using that rule of thumb, 340 mm front and 330 mm rear is a low as I would go, keeping in mind that they handle best at around 350/340. So even at 340/330 you are sacrificing handling for looks.

:thumbsup: cheers :no:

Edited by Sydneykid

SK,

will the shocks work on standard gtst springs? and just to confirm that they are height adjustable? what's the advantage of going to the whiteline springs also?

i want something that i can adjust about 20mm lower, but put back to standard if i need to

but i also want the ride to be comfortable as this car probably won't ever see track work

and finally, just confirming that the price is for a pair? so a set of 4 shocks will be around $1140?

thanks,

Warren

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
    • I _think_ that one has a christmas tree or some other retainer spike into a hole in that panel under it. Come in under it with thin scredrivers and just pry it gently up. If you rip the ears off the retainer pin....so what? Just stick it back down after with a bit of race tape and carry on with life.
×
×
  • Create New...