Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Turbo Upgrade


Tangles
 Share

Recommended Posts

I see where you're coming from SK, for sure. Id suggest from that advice that its clear you'd have to be lucky to get away with shoe-horning a turbo like that into the Stag for under $2k. Looking into it I didnt realize there was a fair bit of fabrication to do (cost wise).

At the end of the day, Im probably going to go the safe route and do the hiflow option, but whilst Im saving for that I'll keep an open eye as to what else is available, based on the $ to $. <_<

Fact is 180-odd 4wkw shouldnt be hard to achieve, so Im going to get all the bolt-ons, air and fuel system ready to go, touch up the braking performance, sort some suspension, and then finish it off with the extra power.

Just takes a while to go through the process, so its good to see what else is achieveable for the same amounts of $$. Thanks for the further info on the GCG, they sure do service a few components!

Cheers for your great advice and information SK, top stuff. :D

Brendan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Ok well, i am really starting to think about rebuilding the standard turbo just because i dont want to change anything else at the same time.

Infact, i think the path i will take is to buy a 2nd hand R33 turbo and then get it rebuilt, but my question is, is there anything that i can do to get to make even more power in addition to the 250 odd awkw??

Also, i have a feeling that my problem at the moment isnt 100% my trans but i think it could also be my turbo rubbing on itself somehow, but not too certain about that. Anyway, i was thinking it may be because it isnt getting enough oil at low RPM's so my oil lines could be somehow blocked, would it be difficult to replace the oil lines at the same time with aftermarket braided line(benefits??)

Thanks on the info, so rebuild would cost around 2,000+ turbo cost = 2500 inc shipping all around etc...

I may also go talk to a shop around here when i get the time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok well, i am really starting to think about rebuilding the standard turbo just because i dont want to change anything else at the same time.

Infact, i think the path i will take is to buy a 2nd hand R33 turbo and then get it rebuilt, but my question is, is there anything that i can do to get to make even more power in addition to the 250 odd awkw??

Also, i have a feeling that my problem at the moment isnt 100% my trans but i think it could also be my turbo rubbing on itself somehow, but not too certain about that. Anyway, i was thinking it may be because it isnt getting enough oil at low RPM's so my oil lines could be somehow blocked, would it be difficult to replace the oil lines at the same time with aftermarket braided line(benefits??)

Thanks on the info, so rebuild would cost around 2,000+ turbo cost = 2500 inc shipping all around etc...

I may also go talk to a shop around here when i get the time.

Turbo rubbing? Simple to check, pull the inlet feed off the compressor and feel the end float in the turbo.

Oil supply problem? Also simple to check, just pull the oil return hose off the fitting at the return to sump. Measure the flow at idle.

The usual stuff for 250 4wkw is;

Split dump, 3.25" exhaust, high flow cat

FMIC (at least 600 X 300 X 75)

Tomei Poncams, 256 for RB25DET hydraulic lifters

GCG Ball Bearing hi flow (use an R34GTT turbo as they have the larger turbine cover)

Power FC (piggy backs won't cut it)

Z32 AFM upgrade

Injectors (JDM S15 manual)

Fuel pump (R33GTR)

Panel filter in the standard airbox (Pipercross)

Tuning, tuning, tuning

You have to have a good think about what you are trying to achieve and how much it is going to cost. The Stagea has the same basic lay out in the drive train as an R33GTR but the components themselves are much smaller. Have a look at StageZiller's pictures of his drive train swap over.

I wouldn't be surprised if at 250 4wkw and 1800 kgs you start to run into drive shaft, diff, ATTESA and auto gearbox problems. This is quite expensive (parts and labour) to fix, so you should budget for it in case you really need to do it all. For example, the gearbox upgrade is around $2500, for a new 2nd gear drive belt plus 3rd and 4th clutch pack upgrades and an upgraded valve body. Getting it to live with the Power FC's lack of ignition cut on gearchanges will be tricky. Going to a manual is even more expensive as you will need a tripple plate clutch to handle the torque/weight/4wd combination.

You could easily spend $25K and several months getting it all to work reliabily together. Sorry if that's a bit too much realism, but better to know in advance what you are in for before you start.

;) cheers :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ditching the auto, manual parts are being sourced as we speak and closely speaking to my workshop about it etc.

Also they are inspecting Ian's manual s2 for ideas.

Ill definatly be swaping driveline parts out as i go, unfortunatly as power mods have developed heaps over the past 10 years...driveshafts havnt really come far.

As for ATTESSA, what happends if the transfer case (or whatever it is) totally fails? Do i just only have RWD 100% or are there big losses?

- re my rubbing, my friend suggested that it could be the turbo gasket having cracked, producing a whine type noise?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Oh, by the way, there is nothing wrong with realism, as i am also a realist. Its only when pesimisim gets in the way when it turns a good situation sour

On the subject of realism.....

Is it 'better' to hiflow an R34 GTT Neo turbocharger rather than a R33 GTST Turbo?

The R34 RB25DET Neo has around 20kw more than the R33 RB25DET, so therefore am I better off buying an R34 Neo turbocharger, use that for a while with an added power level (once SAFC is retuned) and eventually hiflowing that?

I keep thinking that this is the way to go - any reason why I shouldnt perhaps pursue this further?

Brendan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As SK said, the turbo off the R34GTT is slightly larger than the R33 GTST. So either in standard of highflowed form you should see better results than the GTST turbo.

That being said, good luck finding one! I've been trying (unsuccessfully) to source one at the moment. Any ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As SK said, the turbo off the R34GTT is slightly larger than the R33 GTST. So either in standard of highflowed form you should see better results than the GTST turbo.

That being said, good luck finding one! I've been trying (unsuccessfully) to source one at the moment. Any ideas?

I KNOW!!! Im sure they are out there, sitting on shelves in sheds gathering dust. Im sure a few R34's have had bigger turbo's put on.

I trawl thru ebay weekly looking for one, but no luck yet!

Brendan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeh, dont bother with a 34 GTT turbo as they are hard to come by.....

plus, i am looking for one *evil face*

HAHAH, na, just keep searching, let the best man win. I search on YahooJP, but can only find new ones.

Probably im better off getting a GTST turbo and doing that, or getting an aftermarket turbo... which is probably what i will do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As SK said, the turbo off the R34GTT is slightly larger than the R33 GTST. So either in standard of highflowed form you should see better results than the GTST turbo.

That being said, good luck finding one! I've been trying (unsuccessfully) to source one at the moment. Any ideas?

The R34GTT turbo is around 15 rwkw better (260 rwkw versus 275 rwkw) due to its larger turbine cover. The rest is pretty much the same, except the R34GTT turbo has a plastic compressor wheel and the R33GTST has a steel compressor. Not that that is much of problem, the ceramic turbines fail a long time before the plastic compressor becomes and issue.

:P cheers :O

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The R34GTT turbo is around 15 rwkw better (260 rwkw versus 275 rwkw) due to its larger turbine cover.  The rest is pretty much the same, except the R34GTT turbo has a plastic compressor wheel and the R33GTST has a steel compressor.  Not that that is much of problem, the ceramic turbines fail a long time before the plastic compressor becomes and issue.

:) cheers :)

Cheers for the info, both here and the fuel pump query.... Im looking at all the ways I can reach 180_4wkw, without going overboard.

Brendan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much should I be paying for a RB25 NEO turbo with actuator, in good condition, no shaft play, with low kms... ?

Might have found one!!! hehehe

Brendan

edit: BOUGHT IT!! cant wait to get it!! hehehehe. paid $650. Thanks to a fellow forum member who got it for a RB20 but never used it.

I also might have sourced a choice apexi intercooler with the C-bend at the far end, to utilise the standard intercooler engine bay holes.

Get custom pipework done, add those on to the car & the other bits Ive got, retune the SAFC, and hopefully 165-odd kw at the 4 wheels, which will keep me happy for a (little) while.

Edited by bwilkeson
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work mate..that was quick!

I'm trying to look for a blown one myself as it'll go straight to the shop for a highflow. No point spending the extra money on a working one then..

Sent you a PM.

And no, I dont muck around - now we've just got to survive for another 4weeks before the next payday!! :lol:

I posted in the Wanted section, so maybe thats an option fellas?

Brendan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Received my R34 GTT Neo turbocharger and actuator today, top condition by the looks of things.

EDIT: Help please, what numbers (ie stuff written on the turbo) can I use to determine that this turbo is in fact a Neo?

post-18854-1128655577.jpg

post-18854-1128655698.jpg

Edited by bwilkeson
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Received my R34 GTT Neo turbocharger and actuator today, top condition by the looks of things.

EDIT: Help please, what numbers (ie stuff written on the turbo) can I use to determine that this turbo is in fact a Neo?

Given I've got two of them (one in the R34, the other in the Stagea) if there is any external way (without pulling the engine out!) that I can get some numbers or whatever for you, let me know...

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Ian, but I think you need to be close up to the turbo... Ive posted in the Forced Induction section so see if I get any luck there.

Here is what the turbo says:

Actuator says 28 4 Z06A and ASN 79

Turbo says 45 V 2

back of turbo says 21 U

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had some great advice and help in another thread regarding the turbo I bought. Going to take the turbo to a local shop, and see what options are available, but I'd think steel wheels and a larger rear housing is the go for this project.

Got my intercooler from ebay now, was remarkably clean inside and out. Gave it a flush but was in super condition. Happy with that; being Apexi you can see the R&D thats gone into the unit. Thick metal but yet so light as a whole. Super air flow by the looks. You can honestly see why they are so damn expensive brand new. :( Very happy with that!

Core measures 385W x 230H x 60D, end to end tank is roughly 560mm wide. Exactly what I was after, can paint it lightly in black for the stealth look, move my numberplate to where the sidemount currently is, and cut a big hole where the plate was fitted, keeping the spotlights where they are.

With the k&n pod & apexi front mount sucking the air, a beefier & regulated fuel flow thru new lines, apexi adj. ignition timing, larger z32 afm, full 3in exhaust, ebc, apexi airfuel pc, and a beefier turbo.... Im hoping it s going to get near my 180akw mark at roughly 10-11psi, with maybe more available for short bursts at 13psi on the duel stage EBC.

Cant wait to see what happens!!! :( :lol:

Sound system is tops, will do the front brakes in 6months time, and at this stage Im pretty happy with the suspension. I'll tink with that over the next year or so.

btw: finding Im drving the car more than usual, and not riding the bike as much...whats going on? :) :lol:

Brendan

post-18854-1129345484.jpg

post-18854-1129345712.jpg

post-18854-1129346220.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




×
×
  • Create New...