Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 288
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hang on a minute.....he (Nismoid) has come into this thread and made a smart-arse comment. Paul has explained fully what the situation was, even offering the dyno operators number (not our tuner) if he needed it clarified.......THEN he has come again with another smart-arse comment (world leader crap) So Paul has returned serve....and good on him, are we supposed to sit here and cop it. He doen't need to put up with that crap. Here's a copy of the result and the dyno operators number if anybody wishes to call him for further questions. We are just about over this whole SAU thing.

Someone had to take over from the SST brigade, didn't they ?

You are getting offended by your own words. World leader has your trade mark on it. So, can anyone get a world leading build and performance...? Perth was too far to drive but Sydney is much reachable.

Please do not leave SAU.

well my AFR is flat on both Jim's dynos.... and the dyno at the GONG...

maybe it is just a sensor thing, I would hardly imagine the car is actually tuned like that AFR, as it is not consistant with the other information... i.e. the smooth power curve or the other dyno sheets I have seen....

12-12.5 still seems ok to me :rolleyes:

oh and don't stress Stace :rolleyes:

two.06L - let's settle a few things here once and for all... I think I speak on behalf of many people when I say that the 466rwkw power figure seems a little high for turbos that are rated at 640hp, yet your car is claiming to be pushing 624 hp AT THE WHEELS... And apparently you haven't even turned the boost up!!!! Can you find any logic in what I'm saying??

I'll ask you a simple question, do you think there is a difference in dyno figures when conducting a power run in 'shootout' mode and 'non-shotout mode'??? I have done a comparison with my car (see here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=78364&hl=) and have noticed an increase of around 10%.. So that's why I'm asking if you have a dyno graph in 'non shootout' mode, to make the figure more believable.... My car has 365rwkws, but 396rwkws in shootout mode, does that mean I should preach to the world my car is a 400rwkw monster???

Just have a good think about it...

For anyone thats interested the two Dash 7 GT28R's come up almost line ball with the GT3540R in 1.06 ARR turbine housing form for compressor and turbine flow . The GT28R's (2860R's) have a little more turbine efficiency (75 vs 72%) and flow a little less at lower exhaust gas pressure ratios .

I think HKS GT-SS's use a slightly different comp wheel and the maps would be interesting to compare .

Cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03

Non-shootout mode can be configurated by the dyno owner/operater, so it would be rare to get a conservative figure in that mode. I don't think Ben @ Racepace has any sort of ego regarding impressing customers with large numbers, and so has his kit set more realistic.

2530's use a T3 comp wheel that peaks @ 35lbs/min, theoretically twins are worth 70lbs/min or similar to a T04R/Z - T66 turbo flow wise.

p.s. my dad can still beat up my mum.

TommyK: Have all your goodies been installed and a final tune performed? If so, do you have a dyno sheet you wouldn't mind posting up? IIRC some of your modifications are very similar so it would make an interesting point of comparison.

dont know bout these 'so called' european performance cars...

FIAT stands for:

Fix

It

Again

Toniii

I never thought my European car was a "performance" car :)

BMW: Brings More Women :O:P

You know, the money-grubbing, self-absorbed and ego-centric kind :D

TommyK:  Have all your goodies been installed and a final tune performed?  If so, do you have a dyno sheet you wouldn't mind posting up?  IIRC some of your modifications are very similar so it would make an interesting point of comparison.

Lucien - I do believe I posted one up a while ago. Check for posts by me in the NSW section.

Mind you - I am not happy with my CRD tune. The car is laggier than i would have expected with these turbos. I am going in to BEL tomorrow to get a road tune done. Full boost @ 4800 rpm in 4th is comparable to Mik's tune, and he's running GT-RS turbos :D. Not happy!

Will let you know results tomorrow (hopefully)

Lucien - I do believe I posted one up a while ago. Check for posts by me in the NSW section.

Mind you - I am not happy with my CRD tune. The car is laggier than i would have expected with these turbos. I am going in to BEL tomorrow to get a road tune done. Full boost @ 4800 rpm in 4th is comparable to Mik's tune, and he's running GT-RS turbos :P. Not happy!

Will let you know results tomorrow (hopefully)

Sorry, what I meant was: I remember you saying that the cam timing needed to be played with (and, IIRC, there was also some issue with your boost controller). Hence I was wondering if those issues had been corrected and a dyno done.

Seems like all will be answered soon anyway :O

Tommy k,

This is the 1st negative feedback i've heard from crd's tuning...you need to remember that the gtrs turbo application is top end power. gtss is better for mid range.

Just so you know - I have the same turbo setup on my r32 along with the typical mods i.e. pfc, cams etc.

I can honestly say that crd are the most reputable gtr tuners in nsw & possibly aust - my results were amazing :O

Marko.

Lucien - I do believe I posted one up a while ago. Check for posts by me in the NSW section.

Mind you - I am not happy with my CRD tune. The car is laggier than i would have expected with these turbos. I am going in to BEL tomorrow to get a road tune done. Full boost @ 4800 rpm in 4th is comparable to Mik's tune, and he's running GT-RS turbos :P. Not happy!

Will let you know results tomorrow (hopefully)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...