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from the rx7 forums:

Some more good news ... sales are now distinguished by a Type A and a Type B, either one available w/ or w/o USB cable. Type A will be shipped with the ability to interface with all Power FCs except for:

    * Nissan RB25DET version 4.35.

    * Supra, Mark 2, / Chaser / Cresta, 1JZ-GTE

    * Supra, JZA70

    * Soarer, JZZ30

    * Supra, JZA80, 2JZ-GTE

This means its now a generic datalogit, wooohooo thats mega helpful.

Anyone in the know who can confirm / deny. Cant wait to get mine now.

First thing ill do is take pics, spec it out and add it to the powerfc faq

http://www.fc-datalogit.co.nz/buynow.htm

datalogit site has been updated to show the new versions

basically a one version does all, and the other version does the other models that are old/different

hehe these suckers just put 5k in my account and think I am going to send them gear....

oh wait.. Did I type that out loud?

hehe only joking guys. HOPEFULLY, Stuart gets the new units in tomorrow and will take the payment.

Might have them very early next week.

  • 2 weeks later...

mine arrived today as well. very nice indeed. the cd contains fc datalogit for 4g63, rb20, rb25, rb26, sr20, b16, fd3. which is very cool.

will do some logging tomorrow and copy my maps for those who wish to have a look. will also do some screen and log captures for the powerfc faq

ok for those who had the same attitude as me "she'll be right..." it wont work with a usb dongle converter. non stop "inteface not responding" and random it will die while logging and changing between windows so dont bother. way more hassle than its worth. get a laptop with serial

no i was using a 3rd party one "i-buddie" its a usb dongle that gives you a parrelll port, serial port and ps2 key/mouse as well. sometimes it works and connects, sometimes it just dies and "interface not responding" also noticed when you quit datalogit sometimes it doesnt actually quit, in task manager you can see DATALOG~1.exe running, just kill it if you see it as it will lock the com port

hehe you guys are like kids.

Should be anytime now, I emailed him and he said that they all have gone, except for Jpsec Sweden.

My guess is tomorrow.

Should have had it here a while ago mate, now we're having both snow and ice on our swedish roads <_< But i guess that means that im not in a hurry anyway :)

Keep up the good work!

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. 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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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