GTSTLOVE

Thanks for the info guys. Went ahead and bought 6 used oem injectors for 60$USD. Couldn't really argue with the price and i'll inspect the pintle caps on each one and replace the bad ones accordingly.

When i pulled my fuel rail off today, injector 6 took damage somehow. Is this injector trash now, or will it still work fine? If it IS destroyed, can anyone tell me where to purchase 1x OEM RB25DET Injector

I re routed the pcv lines back to a stock setup and it seems a little better now. i had the can plumbed in properly considering i researched it for days to be sure. i think one of my pcv hoses may have not been strong enough and collapsed under vacuum And even though i have the WG connected directly to the i/c pipe it still has 2 stage. i dont feel 7+psi until 4500 rpm exactly which is the stock rb setup, but R32s didnt have a boost solenoid. so im guessing either the wastegate has its own way of increasing boost, like dual spring or something like that. I feel like theres a wire that should be coming from the ECU to what should be the rb25s solenoid, but as stated before since the R32s never had a solenoid, and i have a Mines refurbished ecu for the engine swap something mustve been left out. If anyone knows the wire number for the solenoid i want to trace the wire if there even is one. Unless some rb20 Gtsts had a boost solenoid? However i dont see the plug that would've connected to it. I'm so confused

so yeah, majority of the time my idle pressure is 50-60 psi. thats way over the normal threshold. would 5w40 be too thin or thick? or is my crank case not venting enough pressure. it ran the same psi when i had the can running atmospherically

Im going by the stock oil press gauge on the dash, but it goes from 1-8 increments. im seeing idle pressure of "4" and WOT 6-7 almost max. Before it used to idle low psi at like 1-2. Sorry im not familiar with the measurements that the dash reads at i wish i could give more accurate numbers. I believe 6 on the gauge is 75 psi. and 4 on the gauge is 56 psi. and i want the 2 stage boost removed, so i get max stock psi at low rpms instead of only at 4500+

So, ive had a catch can installed on my car for a few months, and it feels like my oil pressure is too high. I did a oil flush when i installed the can as well, 5w40 (maybe thats the cause?). If it isnt the oil thats causing high oil pressure, im thinking maybe the can setup?. Its non atmospheric, 1 way valve still connected to plenum, and plumbed from exhaust side to can, can baffled with loose steel wool, and plumbed back into intake before turbo. before putting on the can and oil change, at idle it would sit at between 1-2 (on the stock oil pres gauge), but now it sits at 4, and at pre 4500 rpm boost, its at like 5-7 on stock gauge. it seems way too high than before. And for the second issue, the 2 stage boost is still active, its a jdm rb25 swap with what appears to be using the rb20 harness. According to the R33's, the ground for the boost solenoid needs to be grounded to the body, but since i don't have the rb25 harness looms im guessing the ecu is acting like its still an rb20. the wastegate is directly connected to the i/c pipe but it still stays at 3-5 psi until 4500 rpm then it gets to 7 psi. How can i disable the rb20's 2 stage boost? or is it not possible with rb25 turbo?

Thank you

I have the condensor, all the lines, fans and everything except the a/c compressor removed. Can i just cut the belt for it and see no consequences? i plan to remove it anyway, but im trying to narrow down a squeeky pulley and it would be really helpful.

i must have a vaccum leak or boost leak somewhere. I'm running a large FMIC without a BPV/BOV. I get damn near instant spool, but it stays 3-5 psi until 4500 rpm which leads me to believe the 2 stage is still active. This is with either a direct line to wastegate or mbc. im not sure if the wastegate is off a rb20 or 25. id have to research the differences between the 20/25 turbo before i can tell you which im running

and im also located in the united states. the united states forum is always dead, as the car is still somewhat of a rarity here.

When i purchased the car it had a direct line from the I/C to the wastegate. So if i put a MBC between the I/C and wastegate, i will run rich or lean? but it still won't increase boost at low RPM's? and how can i run a SBC if its a rb20 loom. theres no plug because the rb20s didnt have a boost solenoid also the ECU is supposedly a mines tuned refurbished rb25/20 ecu. i can't confirm this though. other than the 2 stage boost the car runs smooth and i haven't had any problems at all

Ill cut right to it. My R32 gts-t came with a S1 rb25det swap already done. it seems like they used the rb20 loom. I know with the rb25 wiring harness the 2 stage boost can be disabled by the solenoid ground wire attached to the body. how can i bypass the rb20's restricted boost (as the 20's didnt have a boost solenoid) and let the rb25det keep 7 psi at low rpms rather than 5 psi from 2500~4500 and then 7-8 psi through the higher powerband? shorter story I have a hallman MBC, but when i open up the spring, it doesn't give me any extra boost at all. am i limited until i get a haltech ecu? or can the rb20s boost limiter be disabled to allow more than 5 psi at low rpms?