SlowGTS-t
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Posts posted by SlowGTS-t
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I've got an ecu with an aftermarket eeprom in it.
On a consult it says 25 deg base timing
Does this have any relevance at all to the actual timing which I see with the timing light? Seem to need to have the CaS turned almost all the way clockwise to get 15 degrees BTDC, and the car feels sluggish here. Seems a lot better at 20 degrees.
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Can be done but yes, 40++ kph required. Would be a scary ride though, brakes with no vacuum assist, no power steering, hahaha.
Try putting turnign off engine on motorway in auto car then turn key back into on position, car will start.
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with that being the case am i right then in saying that for a 32 GTR a tomei hicas lock kit is an easier/neater option?
I was going to go the lock bar route and like the idea of the weight saving, but i don't particularly want to fark around with the power steering too much. The tomei kit is a just 2 shims and a little module to cure the warning light/heavy steering problem.
I just used some metal washers to lock the rear rack on my R32 and then the sydneykid power steering mod to make sure the pump didnt poo itself. Worked a treat and cost like 50 cents.
Not sure why people go out and get Hicas lock bars when the factory bar with washers seems to work just fine.
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AVCR and play with boost levels/rpm to stop it surging.
Sadly I dont have the bluescreen one. I've got the very first series of AVCR's but that is a good idea.
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It sounds more like surge to me. Especially with a rebuilt rb25 turbo. Could be one of the older stage 2 gcg turbo's which had big surge problems on rb20's.
Bent out wastegate arm (very little preload on actuator now) which makes boost come in later. No more surge but not a lot happening until 4000rpm. MIght play with arm a bit more....
Cheaper I suppose than changing exhaust housings / wheels...
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It could be surge (but i doubt it), it could be a bad miss due to bad coils or really rich mixtures. Eliminate the possibility of a miss first i think.
Get it on a dyno for a power run. An experienced operator will be able to tell you exactly what it's doing.
Good idea but was trying to find the no cost solution.
Would a miss go away at higher RPM?
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I've got an RB20DET with FMIC, AVCR, exhaust, filter and an aftermarket turbo (supposedly a rebuilt RB25) and a reprogrammed ECU.
Hits full boost by about 3500 rpm but then the car feels like its losing power, turbo starts making a shuffling sort of noise, the boost gauge neede starts to dart left and right really quickly. Once above 4500 rpm, the problem goes away and the car pulls hard to 7500rpm.
Is this compressor surge? The turbo is meant to be a stock RB25 unit with steel internals and plain bearings so it shouldnt really happen. If it is surge then its a really bad thing right?
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Update:
I think I've nailed it. CAS nub was worn on the edges causing the timing to shift quite a bit. For the first couple minutes after starting the car it ran like a demon, then the ecu would pull the timing out and ran like garbage. Replaced the CAS and the idle changed, egt's changed, and fuel curve is out of whack now but the car still feels stronger. I need to retune.
I'm pretty damned happy
With a cheap timing light, I get 30+ deg BTDC off the loop wire. If I double loop it and much around with the pickup, I can get 15deg which is about right.
The best way I've been told is to put a HT lead between the coil pack and No 1 spark plug and take the signal off there. Tried that and it got exactyl the same result as the double looped wire.
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The difference between heat and cool in the aircond is just a flap. Might pay to check that. I doubt if the firewall is getting hot enough to heat the cabin.
Also, you might just be getting hot air from the base of the windscreen which is where the aircond gets its outside air.
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My car was starting to handle really slopplily. Turns out that it needed new castor rod bushes and upper arm bushes. So got those done. (Standard upper arms and poly castor bushes)
Then had a wheel alignment done. The car just feels really weird now. Seems to turn right a lot better than it turns left . Does this at low speed but worse at high speed. Seems to be an issue on turn in only. ONce I'm in a turn, it seems ok. ALso pulls left on the straight. (You'd think that it would turn left better if it pulled left but that's not the case!)
The steering wheel isnt quite straight either. Have taken it back twice already but they cant seem to get the wheel straight. Also has 1 deg extra camber on the left hand side.
Anyone got any ideas? I tried taking the steering wheel off to centre it but the splines dont line up with dead centre. Been under the car, no play in suspension at all, cant see anything unusual. Only thing left to do is measure all the various bits and pieces I suppose and I guess take it to another wheel alignment place.
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Something to keep in mind is that if you have an R32 or car with a similar chipable ECU is just getting it re-tuned with a custom chip. If I remember correctly the factory ecu is at least as good as a PFC in terms of drivability.
This is probably only good for people like me who only intend to get the car tuned once or maybe twice but then again there are a lot of us who dont need to constantly retune the car.
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If it doesnt click, dismantle the solenoid and give it a clean, (take the coil - black bit) off the top and see if there is any gunk in there.
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R32GTS-t, front mount i/c, hybrid turbo of some sort, other bits and pieces.
The BOV seems to open when accelerating past 4000rpm and at part throttle and the car loses power. I thought it was because the factory BOV spring was too soft so fitted an Apexi one. STill does it. Doesnt seem to be a problem at full throttle. Almost as if there is a lot of boost before the throttle which lifts the BOV. Weird
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sorry I mean are there different kinds for boost and vacuum apps (turbo & n/a)
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Is there more than one type of nismo adjustable fuel pressure reg?
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Do a search. I wrote a long spew about that thing awhile back. You'll only need the solenoid, power and earth wires. Ignore the green one.
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People.. Dynapac hub dyno's give much higher kw readings than Dyno-dynamics rolling road ones. Nuf said.
Why are we bickering about this?
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When using the R32 Actuator, just make sure that the arm is the right length.
When the actuator is bolted up, the hole which mounts onto the wastegate arm should be about 1 hole short. You'll have to pull reasonably hard to get the arm on.
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All 2wd R32GTs-t's have a 4.363 rear diff.
GTS-4's are 4.375
http://www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/mod.php...2106&page_id=43
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guys
i have also looked into this, although i havent tried it, if you think about it, if you in effect shorten the amount of travel on the actuator the effect will be somewhat like an oxy torch where you have hot gasses comming out of a small(er than usual) hole, in this case the wastegate, and burning the wastegate, which in time would become burn on the edge in the same way metal is cut using an oxy cutting flame.
so be carefull...
but like i said this is all only in theroy, it may be different when put to practice, as most things are
No it wont burn the little flap. It would melt the exhaust housing too if it was that hot. Even with the actuator in its standard position, the wastegate never really "fully" opens.
Bending the actuator arm is another way of doing it. Just dont break the arm.
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Link is fine for 1/4 mile but the factory ecu is a better all round computer in terms of driveability, smoothness etc.
Dont forget that it also cost about as much as an ecu remap to get a link tuned which is why I eventuall ended up selling my link before I even installed it.
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If the car is not hitting boost, the mechanic probably knocked the actuator arm off the wastegate....
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R32 and R33 GTS-t ecu plugs are the same
Actually, Plug in Link ECU's are the same for both R32 and R33 GTS-t, never occured to me that PFC's would be too...
(I plugged an R33 Link into my R32 and it started...
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sad turbo will squeel like a pig on steroids. If it isnt doing this then dont worry.
Where Do I Set The Timing?
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
I've done the plug lead thing. Works the same as the double loop on the timing wire.