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ZRBE

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Posts posted by ZRBE

    Chassis Damage.. Bugger

    in Fabrication

    Posted

    Just thought I'd drop back in and let you know the story. I ended up taking this thing for another tune a while after this post. The tuner knew I had bugger all knowledge on dyno tuning, let alone turbo cars in general. They wound it up to 28psi and it was fun... lost my licence for a long time because external gate plus t04e and 28psi I couldn't help myself. Ended up selling it for 5000 and the parts for 4000 so I broke even. 

    Now own  50th anniversary G6E turbo and just installed a massive front mount kit from process west... mission to fit ? most work ive done on my own car since the skyline.

    • Like 1

    Ever Caught Someone Admiring Your Car?

    in General Automotive Discussion

    Posted

    Yes, other day leaving my mates house. The old fella across the road came out while I was jumping into my 32..

    He always gave me evil stares haha, so I had a feeling he was going to tell me my car is too loud and I'm a hoon ect..

    Was telling me he used to have a pretty powerful 33 back when he was younger (imported by him) and had to sell it because he's missus at the time was a lead foot and almost killed herself.. Yikes..

    Nice to see someone admiring my car though :)

    Rb20Det R32 Gtst Rough Idle

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    I wouldn't do it running unless you can do it quickly, because you will be opening big holes into the air flow. But if you were to do it with the engine off and could restart it (maybe needing some throttle opening) and it then stalls or chugs along at 300 rpm sounding like a kero engine....then the air flow path to your fast idle would appear to be through the idle control valves. If it continues to run fast, then not so much.

    Okay, so to get this straight if I do this and engine runs at 300Rpm or just stalls; There is no vacuum leak?

    But if it continues to run higher rpm, it's safe to adjust the 'idle control valve'?

    Sorry lol..

    Rb20Det R32 Gtst Rough Idle

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted · Edited by ZRBE

    Remove the air feed hose from the crossover pipe that runs to the idle speed control gear and block both openings. See what happens then. If it continues to run fast, then air is getting in somewhere else.

    Will do, thanks man! Damn you have some knowledge... Aha

    EDIT: So my car should stall after blocking both openings?

    Rb20Det R32 Gtst Rough Idle

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted · Edited by ZRBE

    Wasn't keen on starting a new thread..

    R32 gtst - RB20DET

    When I start the car whether its first thing in the morning or after the car is hot; The car sits at 1500-1700 RPM and doesn't drop... Ever, also has a spluttering/popping noise on idle & deceleration..

    It's slowly getting higher & higher for example about 2 months ago when I started driving it after about a year off the road it was between 1200-1400..

    I've gone through 3 different coilpack sets, same problem.

    Cleaned AAC, same problem.

    Found 2 small vacuum leaks, still didn't fix the problem..

    Next will be injectors I guess.... Or any other opinions?

    I'm actually taking the car to Gavin Woods at southport to plug the ECU in and see if any fault codes pop up.. So might tell me the problems cause.

    The Goods On Oils

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    Well if you want peace of mind then you might just have to book it into a service centre to have it checked properly.

    Yeah, looks like I might have to.. Bleh

    I hate paying labour costs :(

    Plus find all other things wrong with it lol..

    The Goods On Oils

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    In the manual it says to check oil pressure by removing the sender unit and to connect an after-market pressure gauge, and test on a warm engine...

    RB20DET

    @ 600 rpm pressure should be 1 kg/cm2

    @2000 rpm pressure should be 3 kg/cm2

    @6000 rpm pressure should be 4 kg/cm2

    and the do say these are approximate readings.

    Uhhh, okay.

    Well I don't know where the sensor unit is..

    And I have a Defi oil pressure gauge, not installed though..

    My oil pressure doesn't change at all with RPM?

    Only drops once and that's when the car is warmed up..

    The Goods On Oils

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    To be honest, I doubt you'll notice anything different between HPR5 and Premium 5 or Racing 10.

    FYI HPR15 is 15W60, which is what I use in my R31 :P

    You can buy an additive which apparently quietens the diff, think it's made by Nulon, can't say for sure.

    Yeah, my mistake.. This is the oil I purchased.. (Not off the site, mind you..)

    post-105232-13896028258049_thumb.jpg

    The Goods On Oils

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    I'd personally run Premium 5 engine oil (just bought a bottle yesterday for $70, bit hard to find these days, Racing 10 and 15 are everywhere though).

    Yeah I went and bought HPR 15.

    So Premium 5 - 5w40 full synthetic?

    Those other fluids I mentioned would be fine?

    The Goods On Oils

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    Okay guys, just wondering if you could shed some light in this. It's most definitely been covered but every answer I find is different.. I don't want to know exactly what to put in but will these be alright?

    R32 Gtst 93

    This is what I've found so far

    Engine oil - 5w40 HPR 100% synthetic OR ?????

    2Litres Gearbox (Manual) - Redline shockproof lightweight OR a decent brand 75w90 100% synthetic

    1.5Litres Diff - Motul/Shell/Castrol 100% synthetic LSD OR ?????

    Thanks in advance guys!

    Yellow Jackets Fail.

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    You have the wrong coil packs to suit your car. The ones you have are for the early model RB20 from R31s etc...

    Whats the part number on the blue YJ box? Is it YJ-RB20313233?

    The coils you need are YJ-RB202526-S1

    Wow... Yeah wrong ones.. Only reason I went to change is because I have the 5000rpm missfire problem and I can't see any cracks on my old OEM ones and have no idea how to tape them.

    I took today off cause I can't get to work.. Looks like I'm off for a week until I get this crap sorted :(

    Yellow Jackets Fail.

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Sounds like you have ordered the wrong type for your car maybe?

    Whats your car and which YJs did you order?

    Well they were with the car I didn't purchase them myself. I was told they were for an rb20det. They look exactly like an OEM rb20det coilpack (apart from the colour obviously)

    The only difference is my rb20 plugs that go into the top of the coilpack have holes like this _ _ _ but the yellow jacket plug on the coilpack is | | |

    I'm talking about the metal bits inside the plug.

    I'm not aware what you get in the pack, box was unopened and brand new.

    x6 yellow jacket coilpacks

    x6 random little black clips

    Id Injectors

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Hopefully it doesn't cost you too much dyno time to set them up, it can take a while to work out suitable lag times etc with unusual injectors, and you are paying good coin for every minute it's on the dyno.

    Unless you have the lag time report with them? Might be worth trying to source one.

    Never knew injectors even came with a "Lag time report" lol..

    I was going to get them tested and flowed before I chucked them on anyway. I think they're a little old.. :P

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