Spartan-117
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Posts posted by Spartan-117
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Took my R32 GTR down to WSID last night for the first time.
60ft 1.767
12.7
106.2 mph
Boost restrictor taken out, Nismo exhaust dump pipes back and HKS panel filter, street tyres on 18" rims.
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2
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possibly sold,will update if falls through
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For Sale
Brand New
ARC Super Induction Box
Purchased a month ago but no longer needed as going to single turbo setup. Has only been in the car for 500km's at most. Selling for $542 plus freight on RHD Japan. All yours for $500 plus freight if needed otherwise pickup Liverpool/St Marys NSW.
Price fixed not in a rush to sell so no bartering. COD of EFT accepted prior to pickup.
PM me if interested
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wheels still available
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wheels and stereo most likely gone will update if falls through
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lights and steering wheel gone
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For Sale
R32 GTR Wheels(great condition) with Bridgestone tyres (good condition) comes with standard wheel nuts and centre caps (paint on one centre cap starting to peel. One rim has gutter rash in one section as pictured otherwise their perfect) $750
R32 GTR Standard intercooler pipes full kit $80
R32 GTR Projector Headlights (great condition) but no holders for main as globe as I had HID's fitted. Comes with HID globe's and ballast's $100 for pair
R32 GTR Standard stereo cd player from 1994 GTR. CD player no longer works otherwise fully functional, suit restoration $50
All prices fixed, depending on day located in Liverpool or St Marys, NSW. No postage on wheels but will post other items at buyers expense but much prefer pickup as I work longer hours than Auspost so it makes it difficult to send items.
PS. I will soon have an ARC Super Induction Box for R32 GTR for sale, brand new (mint condition) only in car for a month, no longer needed as going to a single turbo setup. $550( est. availability 11/09/14) & standard steering wheel in ok condition for sale for $40
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Awesome day, cant wait to see some of those professional photos and video turn up
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I'm down for full day!!!
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The standard connections for the fusible links were the problem all along, seen bottom left in picture. Removed the standard connection and just put ring ends on wires and connected directly to battery.
They werent getting enough power from the standard aged connections so HICAS was first system to get the shits with it.
All good now, no more warning lights no more dramas
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Update,
on the way to auto electrician it died in the arse. 1km away SOB. Melted the fusible link off positive terminal. Definitely something not happy somewhere in the car.
I'll update with an outcome from sparky
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How old is the battery?
Haver you checked the tension on the alternator belt? (R32 is notorious for not liking bad voltages).
Battery is only 1 year old still has good charge. I'll check the belt tension out
The #1 concern with these old HICAS computers these days will have to be whether the electrolytic capacitors inside them are still OK, or if they are dying and causing all sorts of other shit to fry in there. I'd be having my HICAS controller apart on the bench in seconds if mine started doing this.
I have had the controller open and everything looked sweet, didnt test the capacitors though.
I plan on getting a lockout kit in a couple of months but if theres an electrical issue somewhere I want to sort that otherwise I'll still be having issues elsewhere. Going to try and clean up current earth's and add another and checkover as much wiring as possible to see if I can find any damage
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Yeah that was me at the crossroads
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Hey Guys,
Recently I started having an issue with my HICAS, every couple of minutes the light would come on the dash(even when stationary) which would be followed by a fluctuation in revs and slight noise from the rear end. Now it has gotten a lot worse, when the HICAS light comes on now its very erratic, stiffens up my steering wheel and slightly jerking it and every now and then shuts down my stereo while the light is on the dash. Last night even switching my headlights on seemed to get a rise out of it. Could this be from a bad earth somewhere that is effecting these systems?
It has an aftermarket stereo and turbo timer fitted but they have been in for over a year now and problem is only around a month old.
I still have standard steering wheel and last mod was long before the issue started.
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Hey Guys,
Just started having this jerky issue with my GTR, the issue is only when I'm maintaining speed with slight acceleration, even on long trips and most noticable while maintaining speed on M7 etc. Under full throttle its fine.
On another note, its pretty jerky for the first 200-300m of a trip when its warming up. Its always had this issue but the other one is new.
Still runs factory ecu. Plugs and coil pack leads where changed 5000km ago.
Thanks Guys/Gals
Sau Nsw Official End Of Year Putty Road Cruise
in Events Archive
Posted
I'll be in that!