Bugzs15
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Posts posted by Bugzs15
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Bump.
ECU still for sale. See previous posts for specs.
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Speed limit is deleted, ecu is not mappable, should be no issues with having an automatic as the impul website does not seem differentiate between the two but would be good to double check.Is possible to remap the ecu?
Ist the speed limit deleted?
Also for automatic Transmission?
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ARC cooling plate SOLD.
IMPUL ECU still for sale, cheap upgrade for anyone wishing to run more boost. Tuned for 12psi and 3" exhaust.
I would be happy with around $350 ono for the ecu, simply a plug and play with no requirement to tune, just check the mixtures on the dyno when setting boost. These were $2,000 new
Thanks
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Did that, and no bubbles
in overflow, so hopefully just some air getting into the system and being pushed out when car is warming up.I have been losing around 100ml of fluid every 5000km but cant find the leak anywhere so will just keep an eye on it.
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Selling IMPUL ecu tuned for mild mods. I ran it up on a dyno and it was not leaning out or pinging at 7psi. Ecu is tuned for up to 12psi so if you decide to run it up on a dyno then it would open the car up a bit.
Car ran great when i had it installed. Would be a cheap upgrade for anyone with a relatively stock GTT as its a direct plug and play.
Other features include 180km/h speed limiter removal. Improved economy. (Please Google for other features)
Also selling and ARC titanium radiator cooling panel, it assists in directing cool air into the radiator opening and avoiding air escaping through the gap between the bumper and radiator gap at the bonnet latch.
Let me know what price you are willing to pay and PM me.
As i am not too sure how much these are worth, obviously no silly low offers.
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Is it normal to smell a bit of coolant from the radiator cap,
I think it is almost new as it was replaced on my last service by my mechanic 5,000 km ago.
Does the radiator cap vent a small amount of pressure to the atmosphere or should i have no smell whatsoever and my cap is not sealing properly.
Also when i check inside my overflow bottle after the car has warmed up i see some residual bubbles around the edges of the overflow bottle, not bubbling, just some bubbles floating on top in small clusters.
Is this just a normal reaction to the coolant expanding and being sloshed around or do i have air entering my system and being pushed out.
I just want to make sure i don't have an issue. the colour of the coolant is bright green and car is not overheating.
if anyone has looked inside their overflow and saw small bubbles floating around the top could you reply,
Would be good to check.
Car is an R34 GTT
Thanks
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Thanks very much for confirming everyone, looks like it will be good to use.
Hope this post helps anyone else with similar question in the future as a lot of ecu questions relate to R33, but not many for R34.
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Just letting you know from what I've found the s2 manual models have a different exhaust cam, compressor wheel and compressor housing compered to the auto s2 and all s1 models.
Would the different exhaust cam mean a different map in the ECU? Would this ECU still be ok for a Series 1, or is the tune very different?
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Reason i ask is because i currently have an impul ecu which is tuned for jap fuel i think. I bought a series 2 ecu to put in my car to avoid any issues driving using 98ron. I have however bought a series 2 ecu and wanted to check that it will work ok in a series 1 before i install it. Definitely didnt get it for the power increase in series 2. Just wanted to make sure it was compatible. Fron what i read the extra power in series 2 comes from revised cam shafts, and wanted to see if the ecu was revised to accomodate the cams. Cheers
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I was wondering if anyone has used a stock Series 2 ecu in a series 1 R34GTT.
I have a series 1 R34GTT manual and want to install a series 2 ECU.
I know there was a torque increase in Series 2's and a few other changes, so I am wondering if the ECU was different as a result.
Thanks
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can a series 2 ECU be used in series 1 ????
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Did any notice an increase in turbo spool noise after installing an fmic. I have a quite exhaust and a stock airbox and i can definitely hear the turbo spool much louder now. Is it the larger piping and core or should i be checking for boost leaks. I have the blitz turnflow in an R34GTT.
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^^This. Your rear steering is probably out of whack from being rogered with when installing the HICAS delete stuff. That means you end up having to have the front wheels countersteering to keep it driving straight, and that will make the steering wheel sit off centre. Of course, it could just be poor front alignment, or bent tie rods or any other cause. Hence, let the wheel alignment guys do it. make sure you mention the work on the rear end to them, so they can make sure they straighten up the rear as well if needed.
You were spot on, had the wheel alignment done over the weekend and car drives beautifully and steering wheel did not need to be straightened as the alignment was causing it to be crooked. Steering was crooked because of the HICAS being deleted. All sweet now
Thanks for all the replies.
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Nah didn't move the wheel or rack. Just had the car imported and complied. Only steering related repairs made were Hicas delete rods installed and tie rod bushes replaced. Shouldn't have affected the steering. So maybe it came from Japan like that.let the wheel alignment shop do it.. however did you move your rack and/or remove the steering wheel at any point?
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I was wondwering if its a difficult job to straighten a steering wheel for an R34gtt, mine faces slightly to the right at the moment.
I know to remove the steering wheel its a fairly big job as torx set is required, but would i be able to just pop off the horn cover?
Also getting wheel alignment done soon, would the guys at the wheel alignment shop be able to straighten it for me or is this a job for a mechanic.
Thanks
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It was dynoed to check for timing issues as well and seemed to hold up ok. definitely going to tune it in the future. Just need funds as I just imported the car and also had major service done. Wanted to steady the boost at 7psi but wasn't sure if it's safe to do so as it leans a bit in lower rev range and GFB advertise for their MBC to bring boost on earlier so need to know how safe it is for me to do that. Didn't have a boost controller when it was dynoed so couldn't experiment at the time.It is going quite rich which is expected on an untuned ecu.
You cant just aim for a specific afr though, you have to give the engine what it wants, which varies between engines.
You are also forgetting timing. You cant guess what thats doing.
Why didnt yiu just crank the boost whule it was on the dyno?
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yeah definitely going to tune it in the future. Just need funds as I just imported the car and also had major service done. Wanted to steady the boost at 7psi but wasn't sure if it's safe to do so as it leans a bit in lower rev range and GFB advertise for their MBC to bring boost on earlier so need to know how safe it is for me to do that. Didn't have a boost controller when it was dynoed so couldn't experiment at the time.It is impossible to say what part of the map will be referenced when you increase the boost. Odds on with a mild increase in boost the map will just get fatter but unless you stick it on the dyno and test it no one is going to know. Why not get the car Nistuned (or decent aftermarket ecu) and get more power and drivability everywhere.
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I got my results recently and wanted to confirm if these AFR's are ok.
Car is stock apart from some Jap ECU (Impul) and Cat back exhaust.
Made 150kw and 250 nm
my afr's are as follows:
13:1 @ 2,800rpm @ 6psi
12.5:1 @ 3,500 rpm @ 6psi
12:1 @ 3,750 rpm @ 6 psi
11.5:1 @4,750 @ 6.5psi
11:1 @ 5,100 rpm @ 7psi
10.5:1 @ 6,250 rpm @ 6 psi
150kw @ 5,750rpm
250nm @ 5,250rpm
I wish to put in a bleed valve (GFB) and raise the boost to a constant 7-8psi, with the above AFR's do you think I still have a safety margin.
Car was not detonating on the dyno, i just want to make sure I wont cause issues if I put in an MBC, especially if my boost comes on earlier where i am the leanest with regard to AFR's.
I do have an aftermarket Jap ecu (Impul) which is for 100 octane i think. So by running 98 ron i was cautious and had it Dynoed after turning the boost down from 12psi (set in Japan) to 6-7psi.
Any advice appreciated guys.
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I got my results recently and wanted to confirm if these AFR's are ok.
Car is stock apart from some Jap ECU (Impul) and Cat back exhaust.
Made 150kw and 250 nm
my afr's are as follows:
13:1 @ 2,800rpm @ 6psi
12.5:1 @ 3,500 rpm @ 6psi
12:1 @ 3,750 rpm @ 6 psi
11.5:1 @4,750 @ 6.5psi
11:1 @ 5,100 rpm @ 7psi
10.5:1 @ 6,250 rpm @ 6 psi
150kw @ 5,750rpm
250nm @ 5,250rpm
I wish to put in a bleed valve (GFB) and raise the boost to a constant 7-8psi, with the above AFR's do you think I still have a safety margin.
Car was not detonating on the dyno, i just want to make sure I wont cause issues if I put in an MBC, especially if my boost comes on earlier where i am the leanest with regard to AFR's.
I do have an aftermarket Jap ecu (Impul) which is for 100 octane i think. So by running 98 ron i was cautious and had it Dynoed after turning the boost down from 12psi (set in Japan) to 6-7psi.
Any advice appreciated guys.
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Selling almost new NISMO radiator cap rated at 1.3bar. Got it off my car when I bought it. I installed a Nissan genuine one in its place as I wanted the stock 0.9 bar in its place as my radiator is still stock.
The NISMO is great for anyone who wishes to raise the boiling vent release point of their cooling system. Great for track work.
This came off an R34 GTT.
Hoping to get around $35 for this. New ones are selling between $50-$60.
PM me with offers.
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pm se
I thought I was buying these?
pm sent
in overflow, so hopefully just some air getting into the system and being pushed out when car is warming up.
R34Gtt Impul Ecu And Arc Radiator Cooling Plate (Titanium)
in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Posted
ECU now sold as well.