My guess it that somebody fitted the wrong length tie rods and to compensate for length difference, they pushed back the caster. What I did:: - Old tie rod / end measured how much thread was left. - Removed old end - Measured old and new ends (new one 15mm longer) which gave me approx 15mm free space on the thread. - Replaced Struts / tension rods (about 10mm lower than before). - Caster to just positive (should actually be around 6 degrees, but thats for the alignment shop, as long as it's not negative) - Fitted the new ends and adjusted so that it compensated the length difference
- Toe-in... A lot.. - Tried adjusting the tie rods, but dead end.. And still toe-in.. If i now press the caster backwards, it actually decreases the toe-in and actually starts pulling the rear of the wheel inwards, but also makes the caster go negative. Subframe is not moved or bent (deviation is identical on both sides and subframe is still neatly on the mounting bolts), and I can't find any bent rods or arms (would be a huge coincidence that both sides are equally crooked). On soc they just state that I should have bought the tie rods as well, because it won't work with standard tie rods (why the hell to they sell just the ends without mentioning it then?). I now have a few options. Buy the tie rods from japspeed and hope I can get them shorter, shorten the ones I have now and lengthen the thread on them, or shorten the new ends which then makes them a lot less reliable. Does anyone happen to have a loose R33 tie rod, to measure the length from the rack to the end?