Mr.R33
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Posts posted by Mr.R33
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Hi,
I am looking for a single coil pack for my R33 RB25DET.
I had my coil packs tested last monday and they found that I had one faulty coil pack which was just starting to break down.
If someone has a single Coil pack, That they Know is still GOOD,
please contact me as I am in desperate need before the next track day.
Willing to be complete Set if required
Thanks
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Does anyone know how to tell if a coil pack is stuffed?
with leads it is as easy as testing the resistivity with a multimeter.
But how do you tell if a coil pack is ok?
I have got a hold of another set of coils to replace my original stuffed coils ( to test if that is the problem) and I need to know if there is a way for me to tell which ones to replace.
Thanks
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If you have had to gap the plugs down to 0.6mm (that's only slightly more than HALF the design spec of 1.1mm!) then you have a serious problem in the ignition department.
It's possible the acceleration enrichment needs some work as well.
The standard NGK plugs come out with a 0.7mm gap in them, so I only reduced it to 0.6 as the tuner suggested.
as for the acceleration enrichment, I checked my figures against another forum members and we had the same figures
Acceler.
5000 5.2 2.0
4000 4.8 1.8
3000 4.2 1.5
2000 3.4 1.1
1000 2.4 0.6
Water temp. Corrections.
+80 1.00 1.00
+50 1.09 1.15
+30 1.14 1.29
+10 1.25 1.50
-10 1.39 1.73
-30 1.29 2.00
do these seem right?
have borrowed some coil packs for the weekend, will try to replace my packs one at a time to see if I have dodgy packs.
The tuner thought this might be the case as he said I actually was low on power from what he was expecting, and thought this might be the problem.
does this sound plausible to anyone?
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Hey,
Is there anyone that has a couple of R33 Series one coil packs laying around from a conversion to splitfires or similar?
I am having a major problem with my line, it just got the Power FC tuned and it has a major flat spot as soon as it hits the boost spike.
I just rang the tuner again and he says that it is most likely a problem with one of the coil packs.
I don't want to go out and buy a new set with out knowing for sure, So I was hoping someone would have one or two I could borrow to replace them with mine unitl I either find the problem or prove that they are not the issue.
If any one could help I would really appreciate it.
Whether you have a couple you would like to sell or just loan anything would be appreciated.
Cheers.
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had exactly same problem. it was my afm changed it with a z32 no more problems.. and on the way i changed my fuel pump/filter & sparkies vthen i got it tuned and it was perfect
So you tested it after the installation of the Z32 AFM and it fixed the problem?
or did you only test it after you changed the fuel pump/filter & sparkies as well?
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had exactly same problem. it was my afm changed it with a z32 no more problems.. and on the way i changed my fuel pump/filter & sparkies vthen i got it tuned and it was perfect
AFM?
wouldn't have thought that the AFM would have made that much difference.
but will give anything a go to fix the problem.
Thanks
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Hey,
I recently installed a Power FC into my R33 S1.
other mods include FMIC 3 inch straight through from turbo
12 psi and pod.
When I first took it to my tuner to install and tune the Power FC it had a major problem with a major miss fire as soon as you put your foot down at standard boost using the standard ecu.
after replacing the spark plugs with a new set of NGK standard 0.7mm gap it fixed the problem. So he went ahead with the install and tuned it over a 4 hour period on the dyno.
My problem after that though is that as soon as you put your foot down now it kind of stutters a bit as it hits max boost before I get power. It is like there is nothing there for a second then it comes on again.
I tried re gapping the plugs - first to 0.9 mm which made it go back to having the original backfiring issue as well as this new problem. Then I tried re gapping the plugs to 0.6mm which just got rid of the misfiring issue still leaving me with the stutter for want of a better description.
Does anyone have any ideas / suggestions of what my problem could be?
Could the coil packs cause this issue?
If anyone could help I would really appreciate it.
Thanks
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I went along to check it out before I run in the next track day, and here are some pics I took for anyone interested.
I also took a couple of short videos ( just with digi cam) but not sure how to post these.
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I deposited my money last week, and it just arrived on the door step at work.
( Now I am itching to get it installed)
If anyone is looking for a power FC, I highly recommend buying one through Hash
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Money is in your account and you have mail
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Raf,
The cooler worked out well,
I can highly recommend the coolers Raf is selling
Very happy with mine
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I have recently installed a FMIC on my 95 gtst. it already had a full exhaust and was running on close enough to 10PSI.
But as soon as I installed the cooler I found that at heavy acceleration that it was backfiring repeatedly. kind of like a cross between rev limiter noise and a backfire.
I am aassuming that due to the added air that the ECU is compensating by flooding the engine with excessive fuel which in turn retards timing etc and cuts fuel? {purely guessing here!!!!!}
any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am totally flying blind here. I wound the boost down to about 7 or 8 PSI and it seems fine.
Anybody got some suggestions to fix this?
if it is just fuel mixtures would a SAFC do the job
or a complete system like Power FC ?
as I said before I am open to any suggestions.
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I will put up some decent reasons why the kits are taking so long later tonight
Raf not sure what is happening , looks like this buy is dead now,
But I couldn't wait for the piping any longer, the cooler I picked up through you was sitting there looking at me feeling all neglected so I had too make the pipes myself.
Thanks
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I am currently doing the same thing.
At the beginning of the week I started to install a modified standard inlet menifold with the throttle body positioned on the front of the plenum.
I got the whole cut for the piping on the drivers side, then the fun started.
First the inlet manifold is an absa bitch to get off ( bolts underneath hard to get too)
then you have to think about what changes.
sensor position for TPS switch
need a new throttle cable as it no longer reaches
piping modification for BOV, boost controller, and various other pipes that you would have to modify just to get them to connect again.
needless to say as of 10:30 last night I have decided to re install the standard manifold and copy the design of the blitz piping across below/behind the cooler to the original holes on the passenger side.
This means a lot less hassles and additional parts you need to buy / fabricate.
only problem now is I really don't want to have to tackle putting everything back.
I hope this gives you more to think about..... but if you are to attempt this type of install you had better be a more patient man than I !!!!
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Hey GTRman ,
When do you need the money by?
Been flat out at work and haven't had a chance to get down to the bank.
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Hey
can someone help me,
I was pulling my inlet manifold off last night and got everything undone except for the 2 rear bolts on the underside of the top of the inlet manifold.
Is there any tricks to undo these, as I can't get a spanner in.
I got the front bolts undone by using 3 extensions on a ratchet and getting to it from underneath the car, but the angle / and access is stopping me from doing this to the last 2 bolts.
My other option is to just remove the lower half of the inlet manifold as well but this is only going to be a last resort as I don't want to have to drop the water from the radiator.
If someone has had the experience of removing one of these before I would really appreciate some advice.
Thanks
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Hey,
If anyone can help I would appreciate it.
My 33 is in pieces in my garage at the moment as I started a FMIC install last night.
Just after a few shots of people's installs to use as a guide.
I am taking my piping into a front mounted throttle body on the standard manifold. one pipe entering each side of the car. not like the majority I have seen on here where the piping all goes in the passenger side.
Just a bit curious what people have done with BOV position on the non standard piping etc.
any pics of installs similar to mine where the piping enters the engine bay on the drivers side would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks a lot
Glen
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I found that tubesales QLD to be the cheapest I could find, stainless 90 bend in 304 was about $21 each. and 45 degree bends were abou $16 or $18 ( or just cut a 90 in half)
Their web site is tubesalesqld.com.au ( i think, just do a search in google will come straight up)
They are situated in Yatla ( near gold coast) but I am sure they send what you need by post / courier?
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Don't mean to sound unappreciative, as the club does a good job, and I know we all have other things in our lives.
But I paid for my membership 7 weeks ago now and still haven't recieved my membership pack.
Is there any ETA on the stickers yet?
if not could my pack please be sent through without them and just have the stickers sent when they are available.
Thanks again.
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Master Power, have been around for 25 years or so, making plain bearing, old Garrett technology turbos in Brazil. The turbos themselves seem to be made well enough, but they are far from state of the art, technology wise.
I just gotta ask, are you really considering taking a ball bearing, water cooled turbo off and replacing it with an older generation, plain bearing, non water cooled turbo?
If you do make that decision, you will have to;
Block off the water feed and return lines
Buy a compressor inlet adaptor (the diameters are different)
Have an adaptor fabricated to fit the compressor outlet to the standard intercooler inlet pipework
Have an adaptor made for the wastegate actuator
Add up the cost of parts, plus it will take at least three times as long to fit. Compare that all up cost with the cost of buying a ball bearing hi flow, which is a far superior solution technology wise and will save money in servicing over its life.
Hope that is of some help:cheers:
Yeah Thanks Sydney Kid,
I know some people that are bringing a few of the master power turbos in and the price sounded good, T04E about 1250 to 1300.
(Of course they are the ones bringing them in so they only had good things to say about them)
but by the sound of it I would be better off getting my other option, a custom made Garrett 450hp turbo for $1600
it is ball bearing and water cooled.
Or you mentioned just getting my T03 high flowed. Which would you recommend?
Thanks for your help
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Does anyone know much about Master Power Turbo's?
How do they compare to the other brands, Garrett etc?
Good Quality?
reliable?
I am looking at buying a Master Power T04E for my R33 so If anyone knows anything about them I would really appreciate if you could let me know what you think.
Thanks
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Hey Dan,
I have a R33 gtst,
it has a 3 and a half inch from cat back and a 3 inch dump pipe.
It will be getting a FMIC very soon, and probably a Power FC.
got my ass handed to me at the drags last night so now I am looking into my options for MORE POWER!
It is a 90% street use
I would like the power at around 2500 ish (not too late)
not really looking for just high end power as I rarely use top end speed.
If you could recommend something I would really appreciate it.
Thanks
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You've got mail!
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Thanks to all those people who PM'ed me .
I now have my new exhaust.
Thanks again
Setup For Track: Adj Sway Bars And Shocks
in Suspension, braking and tyres
Posted
Not sure if it helps, but I have the Nismo adjustable front shocks as well and 1 is the hardest and 5 is the softest. it doesn't feel like much difference if you just push down on the guard but you really notice it when you go on a long drive.
I am booked in for the track day on the 30th as well, so It will be interesting how your adjustable bars go, that might have to be my next aquisition.