Stephen Thorpe
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Posts posted by Stephen Thorpe
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Hi Everyone,
This is an excellent tutorial on how to fix it and I have done 3 mirrors in total now over the years, the first one being done before this Thread was even available and I followed my nose.
However I now have a Series 2 mirror that will fold out but not in. Any Ideas...???? Could it be the circuitry on the actually limit Switch Circuit Board, Resistor etc
There was a Contact Tab loose on both mirrors, so I repositioned them and glued them in respectively with 100% success on the Passenger Side but unfortunately, on the Drivers side the Mirror only works one way.On a Series 1 I did it was a little different though and the main problems was the Motor was seized and had to be prised apart, and the inside of the case was cleaned up with some emery paper and lots of WD40. It was effective but a slightly different problem then this one here. From my memory you could get to the motor as an individual part but on the Series 2 I can't seem to get the Motor out of the case as the Driveshaft doesn't come out of the slot in the plastic case.
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Hello everyone,
Just looking for a decent version of the following;
- Leather Gear Knob
- Gear Lever Surround/Boot
- Rear Boot Trim that Covers the Battery
This is for a 1997 Series 2 but I think the parts are the same... and the Boot Trim looks the same colour as my old 1995 R33.
Cheers in advance... hope someone can help.
I'm in Geelong, Victoria.
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Hi everyone, sorry for revisiting this old thread but it is the only one that had activity on it when I did a search for the Oil Pump Part Number I need.
My Oil Pump has failed and according to Nissan it is 150105L800 for a 1997 RB25DET.
So it seems that the N1 Pump is interchangeable with this part Number and it is better because it has hardened gears inside the pump and is less likely to fail.
Think the N1 updated part number is 1501024U01 (according to the Net) but I have no idea if this will fit the same way.
Any ideas... ?From what I understand it needs a Crankshaft Collar to work properly as there appears to be excessive clearance but if the collar is too large it could cause the pump to crack.
So for a daily driver, pretty much standard, do you guys think it might be safer to go to the standard item?
It makes similar pressure and flow I am presuming and I don't need to worry about Thermal Expansion of a Crankshaft Collar ?
Cheers
Stephen -
No I haven't... car is just parked for the moment. I will do this soon though. The one cam lobe I can see looks really good so hopefully all the bearings and cam is the same.
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Look at the back. I told you in the first reply. They are very straight forward to pull apart
Sorry I misread your first reply... I didnt see the words at the back of it.
All good cheers.
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Some times loosening up all the crap will be more likely to block oil galleries , so I wouldn't bother in this case.
Sounds like it's minimum head off, and to do it properly it's engine out.
I would go head off. Poke into restrictors to clear blockage, crank engine to spit out chunks in the oil, repeat. Or tap a thread into stock restrictors to pull them out and crank engine over to get rid of blockage and swarf caused by tapping. Then replace with new restrictors. Assuming the engine is worth saving.
There are no visible signs of damage and it has been only ran for seconds not even a minute. Sure it will be fine.
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Is it worth putting through an engine detox or engine flush plus (leaving it in longer) or is it way past that ?
Going to try that first... bathe the top in some oil and then add some cleaner and see if the noise disappears or changes.
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Thanks Callan,
From what I understand, normal service history means regular oil changes although, I am not sure the grade of oil.
Coolant looks good, there are no leaks and apart from a couple of broken exhaust manifold studs the engine appears to be in good order aside the poor clatter from the top end and the obvious lack of oil in the head.
So there are restrictors in the head for the oil supply? Where are they and can you clear, or change them from under the rocker covers?
Good idea on pulling the rocker covers off and having a look... I will try that soon.
Stephen
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Thank you Gentleman... much appreciated, I will try to do the best without pulling the lens off the light.
So are the bolts to the shroud behind the bumper, via the wheel arches I presume?
I can't see anything obvious from the front or underneath, on how to get the light shrouds off. I thought perhaps the light shrouds clipped off from the front.
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Hello,
As you can see I have some moisture inside the Driving Lamp on a R33 Series 2... does anyone have some advice on how to remove the Lamp?
Do I have to remove the Bumper or does the shroud clip off from the front?
Any advice appreciated... don't want to break anything.
Stephen
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Most newer - i.e. newer than a 240K, L Engines have a hollow cam - oil from the engine, pumped up by the oil pump is is fed into the camshaft through holes in the cam journals (the bits that old the camshaft in place). Oil is pumed into the cam, and squirts out holes to keep the whole valvetrain lubricated... the lumpy bits of the cam - the lobes - rub against the rocker arms that push the valves in and out to let fuel into the engine, and exhaust gasses out... On Datsun engines, one end of the rocker arm sits on top of the valve, and the other end sits on and adjustable post... on other engine, the post isn't adjustable, but is forced up by oil pressure, these are called Hydraulic Lifters - dajusting the tappets is done by adjusting the post so there is a very small gap between the back of the lobe of the camshaft and the rocker arm, as per the instructions from MAG86...
Here is what I would do - park the car in front of your neighbours house, take the rocker cover off, and start the engine... oil will squirt out of all of the little holes in the camshaft... go all over the engine, and all over the road outside your neighbours... what you are looking for is to make sure oil is coming out of ever hole... it should shoot about 20cm...
If the hole into the camshaft is blocked, no oil will come out of a bunch of holes... if no oil comes out of only one or two holes in different spots on the cam, just those two galleries are blocked... clear them with a bit of wire... if the oil is blocked, the cam is rubbing on the roker without any lube, it will be a bit noisey, and eventually wear through the hardening on the cam and the rocker... and without lube, it is of course noisey... low oil means low oil pressure, means the same problems... check the oil and keep it within range... if you put 2L in, that means the engine only had half the oil it is supposed to... that means the oil gets twice as hot, and is more runny, so makes things more noisey...
Once you have oil coming out of every hole, do the tappet gaps... If the tappet gaps are too big, the rocker is further way from the valve, when the camshoft pushes it down, instead of a 1mm 'runup' it has 2 or 3mm, so instead of a tap, it is a wack... hence the noise...
After adjusting the tappets. If you listen carefully, maybe by holding a screwdriver against the rocker cover when the engine is running, and against your ear you should be able to hear where the noise is coming from... I recommend holding the pointy and of the screwdriver against the engine, rather than your ear, but, up to you... if the noise is coming from the very front of the engine, it is probably your timing chain or cam wheel... if in the middle or other end, it is probably a noisey rocker that is a bit worn out, or the lobe of the camshaft is worn...
don't worry about the black on the floor, carbon is sticking to the wall of your exhaust, when the engine is running, some water is washing the carbon off the exhaust, and pushed through the exhaust onto the floor...
fill your oil, and see how much you use per 300km... if you are using more than about 1L per 1500km, you have a real problem that need to be fixed, probably new rings which is a big deal... less than that, just know your engine is getting a bit tired and will need a rebuild one day... if the car blows puffs of white smoke when you take off from the lights, or when you first start it, it is probably only the valve seals that need to be replaced... still a bigish job, but not as much as the whole engine rebuild...
Let us know how you go...
Daewoo
Sorry to hijack the thread.... but do you know how the oil feed is on a RB25DET... I have no oil inside the rocker covers?
Stephen
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R33 Series 2 1997 RB25DET
Rattle from cold coming from top end.
Doesn't reduce, as it gets warmer.
Never run for more than a minute as it sounds scary.
Oil Cap off whilst running has no oil sloshing or splashing inside.
Cam lobe on show is almost dry
Oil Pressure on guage seems to stay a little elevated
Normal Service History and Oil/Filter changes
Oil is a little dark but not too bad
Noise all of a sudden came on according to Driver
Car has now been parked gathering dust
160k on odometer.
Blocked Oil Feed Galleries?
Is there a screen filter installed somewhere in the head/block or into camshaft followers ?
Where does the oil enter the Camshafts
Any ideas... apart from Oil Flush and Change.
Is there something that could be blocking the oil access to the top of the head ?
Very perplexing...
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New Price
$1800
Stephen
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thanks all for the very knowledgable, constructive criticism...
I did not research what others are charging for a set of these wheels... but I know what it cost me for this set.
Had them for a long time... and they are immaculate, sorry if your set of ABC123 are rarer and cheaper.
Guess I will just drop the price a bit, but the paint alone was a 1K, so don't expect me to give them away.
Only taking up space, boxed in the corner of the garage.
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Nissan 350Z 'Track' wheels.
18" x 8"
Full set of 4.
Perfect condition.Fit all Skyline imports.
Rrepainted recently as I wanted a colour change.
No damage at all.
Look fantastic on a Skyline but I never put them back on car as I had to sell my R33.
Have 2 Roadworthy tyres too.
First to see will buy.
Price negotiable.
Each wheel is worth $2400 Retail.
Painted in two pack BMW Dark Grey (A52) with a heap of metallic silver so colour flips a little.
Painted, after hours by the best Panel shop in Australia... (recent award winning).
Centre Caps included.Regrettable sale.
$2500 o.n.o
Can e-mail better images if required.
Stephen
Leopold (Geelong, Victoria)
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Why are you wrecking it?
Presuming it is crashed....
Interested in some items if the price is right, including engine but will need a lot more detail about who, what, when and where!
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Hey Christian... Congress on the sale...
Just a question tho, any idea if the Neo EcU is different to the non Neo?
If I want to upgrade to a Neo motor from a 95 R33 S2 would I need to change ECu and or loom.
Just starting to look at changing my motor for something warmer, newer and less kays.
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Not everyone is sooo rude Chris!!
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maintain your professionalism and block their rude arses... respect is easy to attain but very easy to loose.
I would hope that I would never expect that of someone.
Fair days pay for a fair days work!
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no.. you will end up being harassed with phone calls around the world with people wanting a copy for nix..
Can see that happening too... Some people just have no respect.
Would never expect to not pay.
This issue is the ONLY thing that is stopping me buying a late model V36 right now.
Really se no point in buying a car that speaks another language to me and a V35, although very good is still a bit old to buy now for me.
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I just got a 'standard' Koyo Radiator, down here in Sunny Geelong in 4 hours on a Friday (from Melbourne) 25mm thick, standard size and looks good. $240 plus $10 for quick freight!
Can't complain... R33 GTS-T 1995.
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I don't know how much you can trust another second hand turbo. In all honestly most cars will have in excess of 150000km, hell even 200000km on them, so you will be buying a turbo just as old as the one you had let go...
Very true, however I think I know why this one let go... so I don't plan on letting that happen again.
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He is saying that with more boost from a high flow it will kill a high km motor easily... not that the high flows are dodgy....
As for replacing the turbo.. good option with piece of mind is as mentioned get Hypergear to rebuild it, alternatively you can look in the for sale section here for people wrecking or parting out skylines... you can pick up a good condition stock turbo for about 200-300. the only thing is how long will it last again as they are getting quite old now.
think I will chance it and go stock.. if I can find one cheap enough.
wish the car was newish like 12 years ago when I bought it.
nothing like the choices to modify back then, unless you spent up big.
thanks everyone...
R33: Electric Side Mirror Repair (s2)
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
Posted
Hi Everyone,
Sorry to revisit an old post but I was hoping if anyone can offer an opinion if they have had the same problem !!
I have a Series 2 mirror that will fold out but not in. Any Ideas...???? Could it be the circuitry on the actually limit Switch Circuit Board, Resistor etc
There was a Contact Tab loose on both mirrors on the Car, so I repositioned them and glued them in respectively with 100% success on the Passenger Side but unfortunately, on the Drivers side the Mirror only works one way. This was the opposite of what the Drivers Mirror was actually doing before I pulled it apart (I think) and the Passenger Mirror wouldn't move at all either way.
On a Series 1 I did it was a little different though and the main problems was the Motor was seized and had to be prised apart, and the inside of the case was cleaned up with some emery paper and lots of WD40. It was effective but a slightly different problem then this one here. From my memory you could get to the motor as an individual part but on the Series 2 I can't seem to get the Motor out of the case as the Driveshaft doesn't come out of the slot in the plastic case.