emilio_bro

I am looking to purchase an R32 GTR with preferibly a blown engine to suit re build. Needs to have a straight body and be mostly intact, Also needs to be able to be registered.! Please PM if you have something of this description.

I have an apexi Power FC D Jetro for sale. It comes with 2 map sensors and wiring to suit sensors aswel. ECU is only just over a 2 years old. Only selling as I want to run an eflex fuel sensor. This setup allows you to get rid of the silly MAF sensors. For R32 GTR. $1000 ONO Located in south Brisbane

Here is a pic of when I bought them 7 months ago.its the only one I have as they are still on the car. But they have only been in my car for that amount of time so they are still in perfect condtion. Just a few scratches here and there.

No one want any mint coilovers? Open to cash plus a swap for something of interest aswel

HKS Hipermax 4 GT coilovers to suit r32 GTR. 7kg F, 7kg R spring rates, 30way damper adjustment. Duel height spring adjustment. These coilovers feel great on the road, soak up the bumps perfectly but still nice and firm for spirited driving. Done less than 5000km of use. $1200 Located in south Brisbane,

My spring rates are 7kg fronts 7kg rears. I don't trial brake into corners no. I think we are kinda missing the point. My car use to under steer. Mainly push under steer which is probably really normal in a gtr. So I took it to "Acurate suspension" got a corner balance and told him my issue so he basically maxed out my front castor and front camber to -4.5. I certainly don't experience any under steer now but I just have an imense amount of oversteer. Question is. Will having that much front grip induce heaps of oversteer ??

But wouldn't it need a smaller rear sway bar in this current problem to make it less stuff and gain more traction?

Yea just stock sway bars

Thanks for all the helpful info guys. I'll definitely be backing it off and taking the car to someone else who knows more about setting up gtrs. Does anyone know what a good alignment place is around Brisbane??

By the sounds of it if I just back my camber off in the front to around 2.6 degrees Nd the rear to 1.25 and run zero toe It should work better. What are the best attessa tweakers? What does everyone use?

Also before this setup. I had old single height adjustable ohlins coilovers that had f**ked dampeners. Less front camber. Around (-2.5) and I was doing consistent high 58 around qr sprint track and mid 60. Around lakeside. Yesterday I raced at lakeside and ended the day with a 65.5. So I'm litterally 5 seconds slower.

I don't have any attessa mods as if yet either. Rear diff is just factory and shimmed/tightened

Well I was running about 430awhp before the alignment and had no issues with putting power down. But ever since I now backed it off to 300awhp and it still does it. I Know it may be hard to believe but it happens on turn in if I turn in sharply the rear comes around sliding and if I even apply the throttle a little bit more than coasting midway through corners it kicks out and on exit it basically feels like a drift car... I hate how it feels. Can you recommend any good places that knows how to set up a 32gtr well Duncan? Thanks a lot

The rear diff has recently been done and the front was pulled apart and checked etc when the motor was built. About 6 months ago. Basically I use to run about -2.5 camber in the front and -1.5 in the rear. But I was having some under steer issues. So I took it to my alignment guy and he put in all this negative Camber up front so it could turn in better. The car turns in great now but it's like the rear just can't keep up. It just slides around like nothing

So you think the camber should be backed off? The rear shocks are at the softest setting. . They are new coilovers. I currently don't have adjustable sway bars