Ares180BPM
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Posts posted by Ares180BPM
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For the power you're after go single - far less issues with cooling and a much tidier, less stressed engine. Also - the reviews of the Tomei ARMS are less than favorable - i was considering them at one point myself but after reading many disappointing reviews i'm more in favor of the HKS 2530 kai and gen 3 GT-SS and GT-RS for twin setups however a decent single is still a better option.
Having said that iDemon has had extensive bottom end work to make the amount of power he's rolling on - for 500bhp it's debatable whether this is needed. For 800hp+ you will need to crack open the block and reforge it or you'll end up with a much much bigger bill. You'll also need to sort oil systems and upgrade your injectors and pump. After this, you'll also need a half decent ECU to run it all.I also believe iDemon is now running a single because response and power levels in newer singles are far superior to old skool twins.
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It's from Nissan officially, believe it or not - quite fun too, lol!
Not so much a test of the gauge as the ETS itself - the MFD on my 34 typically gets the "highest score" under these conditions and should give some indication of the condition of the case
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i've gone from factory to Midori spec midori Seibi to Do Luck Tarzan G-Box in my 34.
the additional programming in the Do-luck really comes into things under hard braking into corners where the unit pushes power forward to stabilize the car to help deal with weight shift.
For a 32 or 33 you should notice things a lot more as the 34's factory g-sensor (apparently) works faster than units fitted to the older models.Which is best for you depends on what you're doing with the car but as above, your transfer case needs to be up to the task.
The official diagnosis for this is to park up on a firm but grassy field and hit the throttle hard, paying attention to how much your torque split gauge moves
All up, i feel they're worthwhile - just gotta select the right model
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I got a replacement for mine through the guy on Facebook (R34 GTR MFD)
Arrived within days and i was able to install it myself (doesn't sound like much but i'm a muppet)
Works perfectly and looks so much better than the burnt up one i had.Give him a shout!
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Er huh?
Don't get it? I replaced my one with the Tarzan G-Sensor and the display is now working A-OK
No extra wiring needed...Yes, there is no error, its just the way it works. What you have experienced with Midori Seibi is an unwillingness to be co-operate with the seller. They know exactly what their controllers do and what their short comings are. All controllers that work this way will have this effect. What you can do it leave the original G-Sensor wired just to the MFD. That way the G you see is accurate and the controller can still work.
Maybe it's an update but the new unit I have works fine with the display.
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In other news, doing the engine Mounts realigned the intercooler to intake manifold piping, fixing a boost leak I didn't know I had.
Found a second hand front pipe and got rips to make a pair of AFM Delete pipes.
FPR and retune later and I'm up 25kw with a similar gain in torque.
Stoked
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Wow, this is quite a disappointment.
Guess I'll keep the diff in storage indefinitely as I'm not wanting to move away from the active rear diff any time soon, otherwise what's the difference between a v-spec and standard after the suspension has been replaced.
Thanks for the input.
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Thanks for the input guys.
I won't have the funds to be able to change the rear at this stage but will give it a look in the future.
I've got some expensive panel work to take care of!
Thinking next year I'll refresh the bushes, suspension links and sway bars then see where to next.
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Hmmmmm, so will the quaife be any improvement over factory if I'm not changing the rear?
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My apologies.
To clarify: I don't want to move away from the active rear differential, however if people know of an aftermarket replacement for this, that retains the electronic control is be keen to investigate it.
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To be clear, I don't want to move away from the active diff...
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What do I replace the active rear diff with ?
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Hey all
Bit the bullet and have a quaife on the way.
Super glad I got the engine mounts done!
An intercooler pipe was misaligned which has now been corrected - Holy Overbooost!
Been driving very carefully and a retune isn't far off.
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Will look into the differentials but the money isn't there at the moment.
Spoon collars have been in a while now they definitely changed how the car feels, adding rigidity and aiding alignment - both great improvements - however the biggest advantage of them was the increase of feedback through the wheel and car asa whole, on road conditions etc.A friend who'd driven the car previously made the comment that it felt dead, that the car was in control and he was just there suggesting where it would go.
After the collars he found it to be not only more alive, but that he had a greater feel for what it was doing.
It's hard to explain but it's definitely made an improvement.Regarding my random list (hehe)
I've run DBA before and as a compromise between street and track found them to be excellent. This car may turn into a daily at some point, so i'm needing to think about longevity too|
Will consider Ferodo for next set - had the MX72's recommended by my mechanic/guru who really knows gt-r'sCan you suggest camber arms and roll bars? Car has a lot of bracing from factory and haven't found rigidity a problem but could look at it
At close to 160,000k i'm guessing the mounts are close to flogged, so nismo mounts seem like the go here - especially given the price of standard!Car has 'difficult' suspension at the moment - can't seem to get the balance right - it seems to bounce a lot, yet the rear diffuser will bottom out when driving on normal 100km b roads here in NZ
I figure I want to spend my money on the good stuff handling wise to try to mitigate some of this.
My last ran bilstein shocks with tein springs - non adjustable - firm but good setup and a good balance between road and track driving, which i'm hoping to achieve again here.Thanks for the input guys - muchly appreciated!
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Hey all,Have an R34 V-Spec that's going in for some minor surgery shortly, just wanted thoughts and opinions.Engine is running around 400bhp (a little over 300kw) on a dynapack at 15psiJust shy of 160,000km (almost 100,000 miles)Background Mods:Midori Spec G-SensorStock DiffsExedy Heavy Duty single clutchBBS LM 18 x10Falken FK453 Tyres - 265/35/18x10Factory Brembo calipersSpoon rigid collarsCurrent:Factory Discs (Need replacing)??? Pads (were told they were Endless, but unsure)Tein CS (Comfort Sport) adjustable coiloversProposed new setup:DBA 4000 series Slotted rotors (T3 front, T2 rear)Endless MX72 pads front and rearOhlins Road and Track adjustable coiloversNismo engine and gearbox mountsCar is used mainly on the road; highway cruising and Togue with occasional track use.Would love to shell out for a full brake upgrade but not in the budget presently.Will get bushes inspected when it all goes in and replace or upgrade any that need it.Wondering about a brake stopper brace as well...Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
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What you see is how they work. I make the Skylab Fusion digital torque split controllers in the UK.
All these units so is tweek the voltage coming out of the G Sensor. Well, thats a simplified version.
What you see on the screen related directly to the voltage output from the G sensor. When the dot is in the middle, the G sensor is outputting 2.5 volts. 1.2G is 0.5 or 4.5v depending on direction. The usual ratio is linear. What my controller does , and all the others is alter the relationship between actual G and what the ATTESA sees.
This is why you cannot use them accurately with the R34 Display.
Firstly - THANK YOU.
You've been the only person (including Midori Seibi) whose been able to answer my question!
So, to confirm, the jump to the left is purely a miscommunication between the G-Sensor and the MFD, caused by an increase in voltage by the Digital Sensor and not a fault.
If that's the case you've made this old man very happy and very relieved!
THANK YOU AGAIN!!!!!!
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Yep I'd hold off.
I bought the Midori one and - though it's been back to Midori for testing - found it to at least be reporting a fake signal to my V-Spec's digital G display.Nissan G-Sensor:
http://youtu.be/Ct5od-3hSXAMidori Spec Digital G Sensor
http://youtu.be/RHpTvkDVq8sAlthough they aren't driven the same route - you can see that with the Midori unit in place the G display is shunted to the left whenever the vehicle is in motion.
I'd love some advice on this issue if anyone has any!
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Hey bro - welcome to my hometown!
Hit me up via PM if ya wanna meet up and go for a cruise
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Thanks mate - definitely steering well clear as they've said that whilst they have absolutely no idea about the problem,
they're happy to charge me about $200 an hour to look into it, with no kind of guarantee that they'll be able to fix it.I work in IT - if we treated our customers like that we'd be out of business in a week.
Plugs have all been checked for bent pins and loose connections and I've been emailing various people about it but no one seems able to help.
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Hey all,
desperately seeking help with a HICAS fault on my BNR34 V-Spec
During the install of a new fuel pump, the car was moved without the ATTESA or HICAS computers plugged in.
Since then it's had the HICAS light on the dash permanently.
I've taken it to two places for diagnostics (including Nissan themselves) and they've both given the same error code, as attached;HICAS Error code 33: Engine speed signal
Sadly, here in NZ pretty much everyone i've spoken to has said "We don't have a clue"
This includes Nissan themselves (though they're happy for me to leave the car and a signed blank cheque with them )
and several performance shops.
The obvious choice is to lock out HICAS BUT that's not really what i'm wanting to do as the system still works when in diagnostic mode.
I've been in for a wheel alignment since but it's still not cleared
Any help would be greatly appreciated! -
My bad - total engine noob here...
All i know is it goes to a factory Nissan terminator and was taped to the plastic loom case... -
Hmmm, MS Paint to the rescue!
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Hey all,
can anyone shed some light on what this sensor does?
It's at the back of the rocker cover and ran to a factory terminatory/joinery/thingy.
We've tidied up some of the gunk from it, but still want to know what it's for?
Cheers!
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Hks or tein
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Check out cusco, bilstein, KW and other stuff.
Had non-adjustable bilstein shocks and tein springs on my GT-t - great setup by a really awesome alignment shop.
Went from tein luxury sport (crap) to ohlins road and track on my r - ohlins noticeably superior but much much harder