Rockit
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Posts posted by Rockit
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I was having a VDC/slip light issue with my 350. On a couple of occasions, it caused handling issues when coming into corners. Did a search on it. Check the fluid level in the brake reservoir; needs to be close to full. Fixed it for me.
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Back in the good old days: https://www.gizmodo.com.au/2019/10/an-early-nissan-r35-gt-r-is-still-terrifyingly-fast-bends-space-time/
It was recently reported that this now 10 year old design car, costs approx AUD $400k. with on road costs. Because of what it then represented, and my status in life, I have been a regular follower of the marque up at Bathurst in Feb each year. Going up to that race accounts for most of the kms I've travelled in my little V35; (has to be the best value car on the road). I've seen the good and the bad happen to the Nissan, but it is all starting to wear a bit thin now. Perhaps its the Euro influence through Renault ?? I have a couple of euro bikes that I like unfortunately, otherwise I would burn them in defiance, so as to dis-associate myself from the region, that IMO is having such an adverse undue influence on at least western world politics. Anyway, back on the subject, I like the analogy with skiing. It may not register with a non skier, not that I was ever much of one. Takes me back a long time in another life, when I used to go up to Buller. My skill level progressed up to the stage of being better than just going up and down Bourke Street. Just as suggested in this clip, thought it was time to progress to the other side of the mountain. Started down Bull Run ?? Yeah, that was ok, speed rapidly built up, was soon time to traverse across the fall; ah, but it doing so for a brief moment it is all straight down ... nah! decided to flick the skis across while laying on my back, and then proceeded across the slope to a point where I could start walking back up to the top.
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Will tie this one up. First, the damaged rim: ha!, repair it with a pipe bender? well that was a naive statement if ever there was one. Shane at Ace Alloys in Mordialloc, looked after me. The rim was in a bad way and distorted across the whole width, and the prognosis not good. He put it on a spinner and it appeared way out, I can't explain why I didn't detect it in the handling of the car? They have a press that doesn't use heat, and scored a winner, as did I. Spent more hrs researching, and the inbuilt negative camber in the car, and others, is recognized as a cause of premature tyre wear in the region that mine went. Going down to 40's from 45's even aggravates this problem. I've stayed with the 40's because of vanity, but am trying Goodyear Directional 5's on the front. Will see what happens, but they can be swapped from wheel to wheel, so there is the potential to get wear from both sides of the tyre. Have Eagle Asymmetrics to go on the rear. The car's suspension components tested out ok. Am now all but out of adjustment for the rear axle. The front toe ins were out, esp on the right side.
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Thanks for the response. As a first step in getting this sorted, the car is booked in for suspension inspection next Tuesday. Yeah, but it seems my problems don't end there. Down the right hand side of the pic with the most damaged tyre, there is evidence of a flat spot on the rim. Ha!, when I posted the pic, thought that it was just a camera illusion, but no, it's real. Have done a bit of research, watched some youtubes'; those that were repaired didn't come up 100%, and the general consensus seemed to be don't do it, - hmmm? Thinking a pipe bender with a couple of curved formers at either end??
So, by now there have been a few hrs spent searching the market for rims. That has included going back through the for sale section here for the last 12 months. Some 17's around, but not so 18's. I'm content with those that are on the car at present and don't necessarily want to upgrade.
Hello,,,, anyone wanting to sell a pair of Rays 6 rectangular spoke OEM rims for a V35, mine are marked inside: Nissan Front, 18 x 8JJ / 30
I guess in that regard I would be grateful, just in case I have to go with a full set, to know why the rim would be marked "Front"? if anyone can wise me up please.
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Greetings, after a long absence, comes time to seek some advice from those more experienced than myself. Must say that I do peruse the site from time to time to keep informed. Anyway, my issue is this; For some time now, especially when travelling on a particularly smooth road surface, and more so at a slow speed, I have noticed a faint thump thump coming from the front part of the car On the rougher road surfaces it was not an issue. It is a great car, used on special occasions, had never done anything that I thought would flat spot a tyre. The car handled exceptionally well, and the issue never really bothered me. The front tyres on the car have done about 20k kms, are of Chinese origin, still have 2 or 3 mms left above the wear bars on them and have never given me doubt in their use. They are 225 40 18's, so a slightly lower profile than std. Looking at the tyres through the wheel arch, I have often thought how well they have served and never noticed any abnormality. I do the servicing of the car, am under it - on my back, every 5k kms and have never noticed anything wrong - this episode makes me wonder. About 20k kms ago, I replaced the lower control arm bushes with Superpro ones, all seems ok there still. Following that, the alignment data worksheet seems to indicate that the measured settings were close to those listed on the G35 Service Data sheet.
So, that is the setting, now to the present. The car did the near 2k km return trip to the Bathurst 12hr last weekend. Wasn't the fastest on the road, but it did some spirited driving when conditions suited, like over Falls Creek. On the concrete section of the Hume, between Gundagai and Albury, the thump thump became more prominent. A slight tendency to veer to the left also developed.
With the car home, thought it was now time for an investigation. Ha! still never doubted the tyres, took them off the car now up on blocks, and set them aside. Was overcast yesterday, a bit dark, getting late in the day, so I didn't bother getting too involved with looking for issues. Happened to move a tyre out of the way to do something else, that tyre being the worse of the two, and got a BIG shock.
I have seen tyres in the past that wear off on edges, but just can't understand how the wear pattern on these tyres originated. The acute wear section is inclined to be more down the side a bit, and on the better tyre of the two, the wear is smooth as though it has been seared with a hot flat surface. Yet then, in some smaller sections the wear is not a smooth flat surface, but looks like it has been scolloped out with a tool like that to get icecream out. The other tyre - wow! I should hang that one up as a momento.
There are known issues with these cars scrubbing out the inside of the fronts because of negative camber and there being no adjustment remedy. e.g. http://forums.redflagdeals.com/negative-camber-g35-559280/ That the car has 40's instead of 45's on it could also contribute. But accepting that, it seems to me that the tyres have been rubbing on something, yet there is no indication under the car that such has been happening. Rubbing on road surface?? I just can't get the angles to work
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Quoting from the gospel:
"SAE Viscosity Number ALS0006I
GASOLINE ENGINE OIL
SAE 5W-30 viscosity oil is preferred for all temperatures. SAE
10W-30 and 10W-40 viscosity oil may be used if the ambient
temperature is above -18°C(0°F) -
Hmmm, so there has been >700 views of that car, IMO it looks ok, black roof (?), and yet it is still on the market? They haven't owned it for long either, perhaps mum is arcing up? I own the same model and have had it for the last 4 yrs. I am getting a bit ancient in the scheme of things, and feel fortunate that although I have owned and driven numerous different vehicles over a long period, this has given me the opportunity to drive something I consider decent. This being especially so, considering the price range it can be purchased in.
I run the car on 98 octane, seems that is what is advised. The fuel tank is not large, only 60 - 70 (?) litres. Depends where and how you drive the car as to how much fuel is used. I only do trips in my car and consider it to be very fuel efficient.
Parts ? Yeah, so these are grey imports. If you need panels, that could be an issue if cost was a concern. There are likely a few appearing in wreckers yards these days. Think there is a thread that lists all the common bits between other similar cars - 350z and maxima. I am concerned what I might find if and when I need a replacement windscreen. I do my own servicing, so no issues there. Is a great motor, pulls well, and strong trans.
How well this particular car stacks up, is for you to decide. If it be sound and genuine, and you want that style of car, it would be hard to do better.
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Look what I've just found:
The newer service manuals tell all.
Hot (65C or 149F) is read on the side that says HOT. The level shoild be in the cross-hatched area.
Cold (30-50C or 86 to 122F) is read from the backside of the "oil level gauge" opposite the word HOT. Normal level is between the two notches.
We're not alone in our confusion. I believe the newer (non-gray market) oil level gauges have the word HOT above the cross-hatched area. -
There is lots of info about if you google it... is just a matter of posing the right question. Would be certainly worth tracking down a workshop manual. I readily found a youtube clip on checking the fluid level, it also indicates how to read the dipstick.. so I'm also all the wiser now :-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tK3-G4rV0Xs
According to the manual, the dipstick need be rotated 180 degrees to take the measurement - dunno why?? It also suggests that a paper towel be used instead of a rag for cleaning purposes.
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Mine is an 03 model. The dipstick is between the back of the top of the engine and the firewall. The engine cover is easily removed, but I didn't find it necessary. Mine has a clip affair that need be released for the dipstick to be removed. In the manual, it talks about having to remove a retaining bolt - which must be somewhere near the top of the assembly. It is recommended that the transmission be warmed up to 65 degrees C. The level is temperature sensitive, and there is an electronic device ... Console 2 (???) that can be hooked up to give an accurate assessment. I drove mine for about 10 minutes.
Next... I can't be sure how the dipstick is supposed to read - at least mine anyway. Near the bottom, there are 2 grooves on the side. They might represent high and low. Above that, there is a knurled section about 1 cm long ...hmmmm, that might have something to do with cold measurement, but am unsure. Having just flushed new fluid through my car's trans, I was checking to see that the level was correct.. I needed to add some, as it wasn't up at the top notch. On doing this and re-checking, I was getting fluid way up the stick. Assume that it is probably necessary to re-run the car and get the system working to get the next reading.
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After having owned my '03, V35 for 2 yrs, and traveled <10k, kms in it during that time, I started noticing the dreaded clunk and bang, coming from the left side front during braking, esp when braking into a turn. I had the car put up on a hoist and the fault was diagnosed as a faulty compression arm bush. Coincidentally the only thing that needed doing for the car to get a RWC at the time of purchase, was that these bushes be replaced. This was done at a LMCT in Nunawading, Melb. These bushes didn't last long and came out in a busted up state. I have most of the servicing records on the car, and there is no evidence that the OEM bushes had been replaced before I got it.
I did a lot of research on the issue, and decided that I would have a go at doing the job myself. After looking at the options available, I took Scotty's advice of 20/11/15 in this thread, and opted for the Superpro bushes. These were sourced from Sparesbox. Considering the age of the car, even though it had only traveled ~ 90k, kms,, I decided to change over the control arm bushing at the same time. For this purpose I used Whiteline which were sourced locally at Repco. Those removed, were still all intact and may have still had a lot of life left in them.
The replacements cost < $100, and it didn't cause much grief in doing the change over. I used a 6 tonne Supercheap press, and a socket with a small metal spacer between the socket and press rod to remove the metal outer shell, after having earlier pressed out the centres. The replacements spent a bit of time in the deep freeze, and were pressed in using a sleeve cut from a piece of 11/4" gal water pipe that I had spent a few hrs filing out the centre surface of, so that it fitted over the extruded end part of the bush. The installation was a simple easy job.
The centres were pressed out of the Compression arm bushes and the rest just prized out. The replacement Superpro bushes were also first frozen, lubricated as suggested on the pack, and having a metal outer sheath, pressed in using a 2" gal pipe joiner,that had a piece of broken off thread still in it from a piece of pipe it once joined. It was filed so that both end faces were flat, and with a piece of flat scrap over the press rod end, it was just the size I needed. Too easy. It took me more time scrounging around to find the right sized bits I needed, than it took to do the fitting. Of course the proper tools are readily available to do this sort of job.
Some pics of the job:
This one is of the Compression Arm bushing that was in the car. From my research, I think it is Nolathane Bushing - looks ok in this pic:
This is what was happening when the car was jacked up at the front, and had the wheels off when I was inspecting it. These bushes as do the Whiteline, comprise 2 halves, these slip over a metal centre. They are not fitted with an outer shell that cause the body of the bush to become a fixed part of the arm:
This pic shows the removed Nolathane bushes, both were badly broken around the top lips. The marks on the sides are from the moulds. I think the metal centres could be called compression tubes ?? Anyway, note that the more robust one out of the Nolathane bush is about 5mm shorter than the Superpro one. I wonder if the Nolathane were even the correct ones for the car, because the way that they fit means that there could possibly have been a 5mm space between the end surfaces when all was bolted up. This in turn could have caused their premature destruction??:
The Superpro bushes in non assembled form:
The Superpro bushes fitted in the compression arms:
The control arms fitted with the replacement Whiteline bushes. Also shows some of what was removed.
I have done a couple of thou kms on the new bushes and all is good, and I'm very happy with them. I think that the design of the Superpro items is superior to that of the alternatives available.
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Check the front lower control arm bushes. Very common on V36s and on the sister infinities... You won't be able to see wear in the bush but if you glide slowly (slow slow walking pace) and jam on the brakes you might see the wheel jump back an inch or more (towards the rear of the car)... This is wear in the LCA bushes.
Unfortunately if it is this then it's not cheap - they don't sell the bushes separately and you are up for two new LCAs. I just did mine at a cost (NZD) of $1700ish.
For what it's worth I was a little skeptical before but it noticably improved steering and braking.
Hmmm?? I have recently replaced these bushes on my 2003, V35. Check out Spares Box.com.au They sell Super Pro, I have just done a quick search of the site using a 2007 car as an example which should cover the V36, and the product is for sale for < $200 AUD\set. Part No. SPF2847K Their website can be difficult to search on. Probably best look it up as a 350Z
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The current discussion on the proposed changes to the import regulations on used motorcars, and especially the negative comment that parts and servicing of same can be a problem, has caused me to wonder about the availability of a windscreen for my V35 coupe. On my recent trip up to Bathurst for the 12hr, the windscreen scored a couple of stings. My research has led me to this thread; I am wondering if anyone out there has anymore recent experience\info that can be added to update this thread please.
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So the car came with this weired cable that seem to plug into a slot inside the armrest compartment. I figured this is the aux cable or something similar. However the question is what fits into this. Any idea ?
Thank you in advance
Not long back I was searching for identification of what is possibly something similar an a late model V35 that my sister had purchased. Came up with it's there to plug into an early version iphone. Can't recall if that was Japanese specific ?? doubt that they make different versions for different countries.
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S plates seems stupid and doesn't really fix a problem, just allows for targeted discrimination.
I agree with this. I soon turn 72, so can be regarded as part of the target group. This is a complex issue with no simple solution, and will continue to compound with an ageing population. There have been some salient points raised in earlier posts; - where does one start or end?,
We siblings in our family were fortunate that when my late father had a very minor incident in his car in a shopping mall car park, the police became involved. We were all absentees from the locality, my sister being the closest, carried the work load. We decided the time was right to get the co-operation of the police to do the dirty work for us, and get my father off the road before anything more serious could occur. They requested that my father do a licence test if he wanted to continue to drive. Not being prepared to attempt this, his driving days were over. He never found out for sure, but held a grudge against my sister until he died, for what he assumed she had done. Doing this had its adverse consequences.
We found it strange that even though he lived next door to the local taxi driver, and it would have been convenient and cheaper to have used this service, than maintain his own car, he just wouldn't do it. I understand the reluctance to switch to taxis is common.
I think that there are a lot of people in the community who are "in the know" who should accept the responsibility, or even be compelled where necessary, to act in the best interests of the community, not the individual,. For example there are stringent tests one need go through to maintain a heavy truck licence. Teachers are compelled to report instances where they consider child abuse might have occurred.
Current 3 yr licence renewal periods for those over 75 don't necessarily help much, once on the slide, the speed can pick up fast.
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Ah, will I or won't I post this? Google keeps feeding me this info; not so relevant to my own cause, but this one is local, and after a search I haven't come up with anything directly related ... so I will
http://www.gtspirit.com/2015/07/19/1000hp-lightning-yellow-nissan-gt-r-skyline-v-spec/
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Came across the following when reading my Google news feed this morning:
http://jalopnik.com/1990-nissan-skyline-gt-r-vs-2015-scion-fr-s-which-is-1714916956
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Thanks for the help.
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This brand of filter has been mentioned herein on several occasions, but the posts are relatively old.
I have used a couple in the past and my car is coming up for another oil change. Can't remember why I chose this make of filter, and then except for perhaps cost, from what I understand, I don't see reason to change.
Thing is, despite my searching, I haven't been able to come up with a current Australian supplier - cost is an issue even in this case. I'm after a 15208-RN010
The prices asked to bring them in on Ebay are exorbitant.
Any clues out there please. I might have to go RHD Japan
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After reading George's comments on the attributes of fully synthetic oils, I don't feel any more enlightened than before I commenced. It may be just my powers of comprehension?
I'm using Castrol Racing fully synthetic in my bikes, but as I understand it, that brand and probably several others is, because of some court case in the USA, still some sort of base mineral oil with synthetic qualities, (as distinct from semi-synthetic)??? I don't read into his comments whether theses types of oils meet the grade?
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I replaced the battery in mine recently, was a simple job. Was the first solution I tried when the key ceased to open the boot lid.
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Well, if I was a MD running something becoming un-financial, who had sent out a please help, and received the response this has after 10 days, think I'd be looking for another job. 37 replies and only 33 votes - odd?
Over time I have received lots of help from different forums I frequent, or have searched through looking for solutions\advice. It has all cost me nought to date. I am not so much a social being in that regard. Since joining here I haven't been much involved, nor needed to be, but so long as I have my car who knows what the future holds. I see this as an opportunity for a bit of payback from me. Usually I just scan the topic headings in the V series Skylines section. Anything of interest will then be read through.
This brings me to the reason for this response; it was because I received the Feb Snapshot newsletter and read through it, I became informed of the situation to which this refers. This is not the first such newsletter I've received, but may be the first that I've bothered to read through. Having scanned the V Series forum on a regular basis, I feel informed in that regard. Thus I don't see the need to re- read what I feel I already know about.
I am suggesting that it could be beneficial to post the message heading on every sub-forum within the community in an eye-catching format, so as to have a better chance of catching the attention of more members? At least I don't see that it had been posted on the V Series forum previously?
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Window Motor Reset Switch - not there
in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti
Posted
Think that you have made a mistake using the word mirror rather than window. You will likely find comments on window position settings and movement if you search window relearn procedure. I have copied a previous post and it goes: Not hard to do, goes something like ... hold window button down until window winds all the way down, and keep holding for 5 secs or so afterwards. Then hold the button up until it winds all the way up, and keep holding for the same duration. Should then be fixed.
The recommendation is that the above procedure be used after disconnecting the battery, when as a consequence the windows don't go through their usual moving procedure when the doors are used. Your circumstances are a bit different, but if you haven't already tried this fix, would be worth a try.