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Posts posted by Alexro
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I didn't have an oil temp gauge at that stage, I was going off my lol pressure gauge
0 bar blips with clutch in, 0.5-1bar at idle. Wouldn't climb over 3bar on load.
Happened every session and had to either do cool down laps all the time or come in to pits until it was cool enough to maintain decent pressure.
Was just really annoying
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I'm coming up to my change soon and wanted to get a few opinions
Car is an s15 with stock sr20 bottom end. Makes 250kw on 98, it's not a daily so it generally gets a beating when it's taken out.
I tried ten tenths 10/40 and I found the pressure was not stable at all with temp changes. I would thin it out after 5-6 laps at sandown, every session, as well as on mountain runs which put me off. It also caused premature wear of my vct sprocket and had it fail in the matter of months. So I binned the oil after a few friends had issues with the ten tenths also.
Added morose extended and baffled sump with new oil - castrol edge 10/60
it's been superb in terms of pressure consistency and have no issues with it what so ever (street and track)
I now have an oil cooler that I want to add on but I'm thinking whether to switch to a lower viscosity oil as the overall temps will drop once it's on.
Trust thermostatic 13 row cooler -10 lines
Current oil capacity is 6L ... Plus 0.5-1 more for the cooler and filter relocation.
Running oil temps without cooler is 70-80deg , and have only been able to see 95deg on hard mountain runs / hill climb events
Haven't done a proper track day with castrol edge yet
Wondering if there is a benefit in going with a lower viscosity oil , and which one?
And if the oil cooler addition will reduce overal pressure in the system? And how that will affect oil choice
Thanks !
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Breakfast stop at the BP and maccas in Officer.
(On the side of the freeway on the way)
I'm guessing from 7:00-7:45? So we can make it in time
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haha oh wow that does look quite intense, will definitely be taking the first few at a mild pace
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Thanks for that mate , thought it would be the case. I'll change brake pads then lol.
Can anyone confirm passengers ?
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What is the layout of the runs ?
Is it one at a time, one lap only ?
Or is there room for a warm up or cool down lap?
And are passengers allowed?
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interested in rear kit
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*cries* count me in for the next one
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Work Meister S1 3 piece
18x9+20 all round5x114.3
Low disc, for maximum dish
Comes with tyres
Minor gutter rash on 2 of the wheels
$2500
South east melbourne or can meet somewhereWilling to pack and post, at buyers expense
Previous owner cleared his brakes on an evo 5 , my fronts needed 10mm spacer to clear evo 9 brembos on an s15 with custom dog leg setup (probably due to the dogleg setup)
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Pm me price for rear brembos only ?
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Shotgun rear rotors. I live around the corner
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thanks for the bmc broski
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If someone parts out can I has bm57
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Can people put up pics of the seats and review for next group buy ?
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Sold thanks guys
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That's pretty lucky, the two best choices would be to plastidip your bumper and behind wheels. Or go to bunnings and get edge lock masking tape (the one that leaves no residue).
Plastidip is easier to apply and remove. Both are going to cost you the same
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A couple of good posts above about adm being generally in a lot better condition than jdm models.
I recently spent about 2 months looking for one and bought an adm model with awesome mods for a reasonable price. Saw too many busted jdm models .. My tip .. Check the chassis rails all the time lol
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I get anywhere between 12 - mid 20 L/100 running 250
Stupid love of the spool makes me foot happy l
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Rb25 gearbox.
in Wanted to Buy
Posted
Hey mate you have a pm