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Simink

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Posts posted by Simink

  1. You might have low cranking amps.

    If you bought a cheap battery it might be struggling to run your car on the first start.

    That might be why it started fine after your long drive.

    Post up your spec on the battery

    Is say this because it sounds all the same problem I have experienced before.

    Started again today in ACC first, perfect start. But noticed if i gave it a rev up to about 3500rpm it would drop to about 400 and nearly stall before catching itself.

    Called out RACQ just in case the battery needed replacing, he said it's a little lower than it should be and thinks it just needs a charge. Bought a charger off him, plugged it in when I got home, within 3min the fully charged light is on. I'm going to leave it for a few hours cause I'm hoping the charger is telling porkies and that it's going to be the issue fixed.

    RACQ guy also said that the battery is a bit smaller than you'd expect in a car of that size, but not uncommon. It is the battery that was in the car when I bought it from the dealer. Can't get specs on it without taking it out. No visible markings or labels anywhere with it in.

    If I'm still getting issues after charging the battery I might just bite the bullet and put a new battery in it and see how it goes.

    Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Fingers crossed.

  2. There isn't really anything the computer needs to do to 're-calibrate' between short trips and long highway trips, I figured a good highway run would give things a bit of a cleanout, clean some carbon buildup of the intake valves, etc.

    Might be worth cleaning the throttle-body(s) and MAF. Not sure if injector cleaners are of much use, but probably won't hurt.

    Throttle body and MAF are spotless. Clean them both regularly, and I don't let them build up much carbon.

    I bet it's your battery.

    Get it checked bro

    Good call. Last service he mentioned one terminal was a bit loose and will need replacing. Battery itself was brand new July '14. Would have thought if it was the battery it'd be more than just an inconsistent fuel pump feed.

    I'll put new terminals on this weekend and see how I go.

    ---

    FYI: Started this morning with letting the pump prime in ACC first, started up perfectly. 1800rpm, then slowly dropped to idle.

    • Like 1
  3. Not sure if it is relevant, but my wife's J31 maxima (VQ35DE) was starting to struggle to start a little with a cold start. would always start, but seemed to hesitate for a second or so after firing. It was mainly used around town, and we took it on a 1000km highway trip, and it has been fine since.. with a cold start, it immedeatly shoots up to about 1800rpm, then drops down, just like it used to do.

    This is exactly what I'm getting. Took it for a 300km cruise a few months back and it got rid of the stuttering for about 3 weeks. I only drive a short distance to work, and mostly 60kph zones. In saying that, is it possibly just the computer recalibrating incorrectly from doing short trips?

  4. I had an issue from time to time where if I put it into A/c first then start i get chugging like you said and it either stalls or it just goes on unless i step on the accelerator. I have yet seen it as bad as your problem.

    I'll post a video in the morning. It's not as bad as it must sound to you. Turns over fine second time. It's got to either be fuel pressure in the line, pump not getting clean voltage, pump dying, or needs the intakes cleaned (which i doubt is the issue).

    Reason I think it could be pump dying is cause at driveway speed it doesn't have a smooth power input. Somewhat like the pump is turning on and off randomly, or just not producing a consistent flow. Some days it's perfect, others it has minor power cuts.

    Thanks for the input though. I'll put it in A/C first to see what happens regardless. Will be a good test.

  5. Hey guys, I've started having an intermittent recurring problem over the past 6 months. When I cold start the car in the morning, 9 times out of 10 it will struggle to get an idle and often stall out completely. Second attempt it fires up perfectly every time with a peak rev up to around 2000rpm then slowly back down to idle (as per normal).

    When it first started having the issue it would spend a good 5-10sec "chugging" before finding idle, but over time it has started dying and now it's down to about 2sec before stalling.

    It's just had a regular 10,000km service, and I had them replace all the spark plugs and give a full mechanical report - no Consult, they refused to touch it (Nissan service centre).

    The only thing I can think of would be the fuel pump dying. The car hasn't even done 80,000km yet - do the pumps in these die that quickly?

  6. Not sure what they mean by 'tailshaft rubber coupling'. they do have a centre bearing which may be supported on rubber brackets?? or they are referring to the differential mounts? - http://nissan.epcdata.ru/skyline/pv36/7255-vq35hr/trans/370/

    Looking at that diagram the rubber coupling is the large hexagonal shaped piece at the top end of the shaft. Isn't the rubber coupling there to absorb friction between the shaft and it's connection at both ends?

    As for the 2nd item, sounds like they are talking about the diff mount in the rear carrier/subframe. Nissan don't sell this bush separatly.. so if you want the genuine bush, you need to buy the entire subframe!!

    Whiteline make an aftermarket kit. - https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=12051 - you should be able to buy this kit locally though.

    they may need to drop the subframe to press out the old bushing, or they can just do what everyone else does and cut the old one out. I guess they are just too scared to do either!

    Not sure I understand either, and to be honest I don't have a lot of confidence in the mechanic. He called me first thing in the morning to tell me the rear crossmember was split... when I went into the service centre he said he meant the rubber coupling. Not sure how much stupid you need to mix those up. So I can't take anything from what he meant by this. With any luck it's not something that needs replacing, just remove the oil.

    In all honesty, if there's someone with a lot of mechanical knowledge on V36's in Brisbane or surrounding areas I'd prefer to get a second opinion on everything they looked at.

  7. Just took my V36 ('07 350GT SP - VQ35HR) for it's first 10,000km service since purchased, and the dealer mechanic flagged a few things I need to draw attention to. He's recommended I find aftermarket parts if I can because the cost of genuine from Japan is ridiculous.

    The main item I need is a Tailshaft Rubber Coupling - rear coupling, not sure if they differ front and back. Parts suppliers anywhere within Australia, as long as they're willing to post parts.

    -

    One other thing I need done, which will need to be from someone locally (Brisbane), is the rear diff bush is filled with oil. The mechanics words were "it will need 'special equipment' to push it out", and that it's not something they can do. Who can I see about getting this done?

    Thanks in advance. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  8. Lakeside Specific Rules:

    10. Participants must have completed at least ONE QR Happy Laps before participating in a Lakeside session. (If you have done other Lakeside events before you may be eligible. PM me to clarify)

    Do they accept Nordschleife instead?

    Bit of a weird rule. I wonder what the theory behind it is... "Now that you've tackled a flat race track, prepare yourself for some slight hills (cause public roads don't have those...)"

  9. doing checks etc doesnt mean anything if you don't have a taxi licence. Now, the way the gov limits those etc is the stupid thing.

    there's nothing illegal about going to a seminar, that's why the cops don't arrest people there. As you'd need a new PayPal account each time I think I can guess why the cops haven't just kept calling uber drivers and ticketed them, for now. Maybe they'll have an operation/crackdown at some point in the future.

    end result: you legally could get a 4 figure fine, but it's not likely at the moment.

    Nah, you need to get a QLD GOV approved Driver Authorisation, sit medicals, etc. Same process as a taxi driver. Everything is by the books now. Lots of Uber drivers have been taken off the road in Brisbane which is why it's now prime real estate for anyone wanting to make some extra dosh.

    Only once you've done all that can you go to their sign up and get registered with them.

    I understand everyone's speculation, but from everything I've read up on they've done everything by the books. Not banned in QLD anymore. Any driver without the gov auth gets suspended from their Uber driver account. It's a simple system.

    The PayPal thing is a misunderstanding as well. Uber doesn't pay to your account immediately. They take the money, take their 20% cut, and every Monday at 4am you get paid your weekly total.

  10. stick their fingers in their ears and ignore it. Plus rely on safety in numbers as there's too many people to prosecute.

    honestly I think its a good idea, I find the way the taxi industry is reacting to it hilarious.

    Well by the looks of the screening process they've met the industry requirements. I can't find any media "proof", but then again, the media don't want to tell any stories that don't create confusion or frustration... so it's likely happened and just slipped through.

    They're still running intake days at Toowong Bowls Club 3 nights a week, so can't have been banned. Cops would just wait out front arresting everyone who signs up. lol

    • Like 1
  11. Haha... well Mike, you need a 4 door car. And Andy, you have to go through very strict screening. So far it's been more thorough than getting a taxi driver licence. It's all been very professional so far. More like chauffeur or limousine service than a taxi.

    I doubt there's more sleazes than Yellow Cabs! :P

    Other thing is people aren't randoms. They have to have an account with a credit card or paypal account linked, so you never get a skipped fare, and if they make a mess you can give them a bad review and charge cleaning fees. Then they get a bad record so other drivers will avoid them, and you let head office sort out your imbursement for cleaning.

    Also means car is tax deductible. :D

  12. Still going, just can't be f**ked with diet. The muscles are all there getting bigger there is just a layer of fat over them.

    That's how you're supposed to do it if you're bulking up. Muscles need fat stores to repair themselves. It's only when you're at desired bulk level you start toning.

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