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Posts posted by DN14
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one thing i know is that its definitely not a copper grease issue iv used a kilo of anti squeal behind the pads aswell as applying copper grease without no effect
what do these marks mean?
http://i.imgur.com/kKX9wcv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/8V7yyrX.jpg
iv only had these pads for less than 10 days now
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took the r33 to another mechanic (works on alot of performance cars) it was apparently the rear pads, they swapped over the Bendix pads with Repco thermoquite ones & the squeak did go away.
now a week after it squeals again ..
imsomadritenow f**k
wat to do?
really considering selling the car after getting the brakes done by mechanics twice and 10 times myself just for it to squeak again
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After having my rear pads get to metal on metal shortly after buying my car I replaced them with *surprise surprise* bendix GCT as well. No shims because they were not on there and GCT don't come with them, rotors machined etc. I've ordered new pads that come with shims so I'll swap them in later next week and keep you updated.
please do mate
after tons of work done on the brakes to stop the squeal they still bloody squeal, cosidering taking it in to a brake specialist now
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Not an expert but - did the new Pads have shims on the back of them as well as applying the Anti squeal compound ?
new pads didnt come with shims i used the old shims for fronts, but for rears i dont have shims
F***ing brake squeal, it's a black art. Some times you can over heat them when bedding them in and you will never get rid that horrid noise. You can try taking out the pads and rubbing them on a nice bit 80 grit/ concrete to freshen the surface then scuff the rotors up with 120 grit, blow off the dust on the pads and clean the rotors with brake cleaner, reassemble and do a less aggressive brake-in again.
Make a Bonfire do a little dance sacrifice a goat / neighbours cat...
could using a fluid with lower boiling point then recommended also cause to overheat
poor bedding in, scuff the pads back up and re bed
my mechanic bed them in, he also told me if it squeaks again i need to replace pads with a softer compound one
i dont know if this is the case
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so iv had this issue for a while now and it is really getting annoying now
at first i had alot of squeal though after machining my rotors i had got rid of most of all that
though now my brake starts to squeal after about 15 minutes of city driving
why is this?
ill note
brand new bendix general ct brake pads
pads bedded in & edges smoothed
new rotors very recently machined
brakes components should be all clean
anti squeal compound has been used behind pads
i know that last time i did i brake fluid flush i used dot 3 which repco rep told me was what i needed
though i found out my car actually uses dot 4 could this possibly be the cause?
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a little update..
few days after i posted this thread my turbo comepltely f**kd up i took a look and the shaft had like 3cm play literally
so im guessing the turbo was the reason why my car started stalling
just finished removing & installing the new turbo few hours ago (first time & did it alone) and everything seems fine
the actuator on the turbo is set at 11psi though when i took it for a run according to my gauge it got up to 16?
i know the actuator is rubbing against the side of my car could this play a role in this?
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the auto trans fluid was in nick condition & plenty in there, didn't need replacing but i did a quick flush anyway as i already had bought the fluid
its never stalled while at a stand still both the times it happened was while i was moving in for a turn
i truly dont think its due to not having a bov iv been running without one for a fair bit now and has never ever done this till just recently
as a matter of fact started happening couple days after i put in a catback system
ill just have to take it in to a mech to get it looked at
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No.
Have you got an atmo bov?
currently not running a bov
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this has been happening very recently, yesterday i was driving then while going in for a turn my r33 stalled on me
happened again today was turning then stalled on me
i noticed it happens when i press the acceleration firmly then let go and go in for a turn it stalls
could the OD function be the cause for this?
ill also note that i usually have to press down the gas pedal when starting the car otherwise it just wont even attempt to turn over
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would this fit my bugatti veyron
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Handbrake cable? Have you taken the rotor off? IIRC you will see the connecion once the rotor's off.
yeah rotor was off but still didn't know exactly, so i just left it intact with hub but disconnected it up from the tailshaft
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quick question, im removing my rear wheel hub how is the ebrake cable disconnected from the hub?
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looking to buy a cheap r33 series 1 reinforcement bar, located in VIC
front bar only!
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impact wrench is a very useful tool
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yeah they were all like that picked it up from repco, its Autotecnica
anyway earthed to lighter socket all seems working fine
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WTF, has it had a 9v battery hooked up to it at some point?
Looks pretty sketchy to me, Personally I'd buy another gauge but thats just me.
Anyway, as above, red - Power, looks like its supposed to tee in where the 9v battery terminals are. Black will be ground, but not sure if you have to earth it or if it earths through the MAP sensor mount. and green just hook up to the other green. My gauge has 2 seperate plugs, one is the 3 wires back from the gauge, and the other is power, earth and illumination
yeah i was surprised to but the battery was there for demonstration purpose, outside the box theres a "test me" button
currently confused were to earth now lol
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Correct me if I'm wrong guys.... Red = positive! black = ground and green = boost signal.
I'd get 12v power to both ground both blacks, then connect the green from solenoid to the green on the gauge.
thanks mate!
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So i either didn't receive an instruction manual with my gauge kit or i just lost it, anyway
could someone enlighten me on how the wiring works in this particular setup please ? (which is what)
so far i have the vacuum hose routed to inside the cabin and just need to wire this thing up
but am having difficulty without this manual
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well this makes so much sense now
so I guess the worn part wasnt the tie rod end but the balljoint in the steering arm.
anyways thanks both
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Iv been told my rear right hand side tie rod end is worn
so i ordered myself a replacement from eBay and he confirmed its the right fit via the VIN number,
I received it & tried fitting it earlier today but i noticed its completely different to mine?
here is a picture of the one i ordered
and here is the one on my car
am i not looking at the correct part? i removed my tie rod end & its just a long piece of metal
completely different to first pic there's no ball joint how could that be worn?
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hmm what bout a Emanage piggy back ecu ?
and yes its auto
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alright if I were to get an aftermarket I would still have to get nistune installed on it?
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yeah though so, I doubt its toshi tuned either according to a quick look up his located in NSW and im from VIC
so back the the actual question what would be a slightly inexpensive alternative then getting nistune installed?
Brake Squeal
in Suspension, braking and tyres
Posted
thats the thing, even if that did get rid of the squeaking a week later it wil just rise again
i need to know the root cause of this