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DN14

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Posts posted by DN14

  1. I think you need to rough them up and then go bed your brakes in. And be mean about it.

    Kind of looking like they are glazing.

    I have no shims or copper grease and just put in a set of intima sr pads and have no squeel.

    thats the thing, even if that did get rid of the squeaking a week later it wil just rise again

    i need to know the root cause of this

  2. took the r33 to another mechanic (works on alot of performance cars) it was apparently the rear pads, they swapped over the Bendix pads with Repco thermoquite ones & the squeak did go away.

    now a week after it squeals again ..

    imsomadritenow f**k

    wat to do?

    really considering selling the car after getting the brakes done by mechanics twice and 10 times myself just for it to squeak again

  3. After having my rear pads get to metal on metal shortly after buying my car I replaced them with *surprise surprise* bendix GCT as well. No shims because they were not on there and GCT don't come with them, rotors machined etc. I've ordered new pads that come with shims so I'll swap them in later next week and keep you updated.

    please do mate

    after tons of work done on the brakes to stop the squeal they still bloody squeal, cosidering taking it in to a brake specialist now

  4. Not an expert but - did the new Pads have shims on the back of them as well as applying the Anti squeal compound ?

    new pads didnt come with shims i used the old shims for fronts, but for rears i dont have shims

    F***ing brake squeal, it's a black art. Some times you can over heat them when bedding them in and you will never get rid that horrid noise. You can try taking out the pads and rubbing them on a nice bit 80 grit/ concrete to freshen the surface then scuff the rotors up with 120 grit, blow off the dust on the pads and clean the rotors with brake cleaner, reassemble and do a less aggressive brake-in again.

    Make a Bonfire do a little dance sacrifice a goat / neighbours cat...

    could using a fluid with lower boiling point then recommended also cause to overheat

    poor bedding in, scuff the pads back up and re bed

    my mechanic bed them in, he also told me if it squeaks again i need to replace pads with a softer compound one

    i dont know if this is the case

  5. so iv had this issue for a while now and it is really getting annoying now

    at first i had alot of squeal though after machining my rotors i had got rid of most of all that

    though now my brake starts to squeal after about 15 minutes of city driving

    why is this?

    ill note

    brand new bendix general ct brake pads

    pads bedded in & edges smoothed

    new rotors very recently machined

    brakes components should be all clean

    anti squeal compound has been used behind pads

    i know that last time i did i brake fluid flush i used dot 3 which repco rep told me was what i needed

    though i found out my car actually uses dot 4 could this possibly be the cause?

  6. a little update..

    few days after i posted this thread my turbo comepltely f**kd up i took a look and the shaft had like 3cm play literally

    so im guessing the turbo was the reason why my car started stalling

    just finished removing & installing the new turbo few hours ago (first time & did it alone) and everything seems fine

    the actuator on the turbo is set at 11psi though when i took it for a run according to my gauge it got up to 16?

    i know the actuator is rubbing against the side of my car could this play a role in this?

  7. the auto trans fluid was in nick condition & plenty in there, didn't need replacing but i did a quick flush anyway as i already had bought the fluid

    its never stalled while at a stand still both the times it happened was while i was moving in for a turn

    i truly dont think its due to not having a bov iv been running without one for a fair bit now and has never ever done this till just recently

    as a matter of fact started happening couple days after i put in a catback system

    ill just have to take it in to a mech to get it looked at

  8. this has been happening very recently, yesterday i was driving then while going in for a turn my r33 stalled on me

    happened again today was turning then stalled on me

    i noticed it happens when i press the acceleration firmly then let go and go in for a turn it stalls

    could the OD function be the cause for this?

    ill also note that i usually have to press down the gas pedal when starting the car otherwise it just wont even attempt to turn over

  9. WTF, has it had a 9v battery hooked up to it at some point?

    Looks pretty sketchy to me, Personally I'd buy another gauge but thats just me.

    Anyway, as above, red - Power, looks like its supposed to tee in where the 9v battery terminals are. Black will be ground, but not sure if you have to earth it or if it earths through the MAP sensor mount. and green just hook up to the other green. My gauge has 2 seperate plugs, one is the 3 wires back from the gauge, and the other is power, earth and illumination

    yeah i was surprised to but the battery was there for demonstration purpose, outside the box theres a "test me" button

    currently confused were to earth now lol

  10. So i either didn't receive an instruction manual with my gauge kit or i just lost it, anyway

    could someone enlighten me on how the wiring works in this particular setup please ? (which is what)

    so far i have the vacuum hose routed to inside the cabin and just need to wire this thing up

    but am having difficulty without this manual

    post-136677-0-30514600-1413792478_thumb.jpg

  11. Iv been told my rear right hand side tie rod end is worn

    so i ordered myself a replacement from eBay and he confirmed its the right fit via the VIN number,

    I received it & tried fitting it earlier today but i noticed its completely different to mine?

    here is a picture of the one i ordered

    $_35.JPG

    and here is the one on my car

    JhzgVTc.jpg

    am i not looking at the correct part? i removed my tie rod end & its just a long piece of metal

    completely different to first pic there's no ball joint how could that be worn?

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