mattymatty4
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Posts posted by mattymatty4
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Base timing? Not hard at all to set
coilpacks didn't do much at all. I'm thinking all thats left is timing..
when i take it for a drive it seems to be OK when its cold, then when it gets warm it just cuts out on boost, hunts while idling etc etc
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With it idling, unplug them one at a time, the one that makes the most difference to engine note/idle will be the strongest. Leave it in. Might not help much at idle but probably how id do it if I didnt want to waste too much time
oh sweet awesome thanks. I'm reallllyyyy hoping this fixes it and its not timing
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Simple things first. New plugs, gap to .8, try again. If its better then it may have been your plugs or your coilpacks might be a bit sad
Get copper plugs, dont bother with iridium etc. Bcpr6 or bkr6 should be fine. One is slightly longer than the other. Forget which is the more commonly used
Otherwise I can give you the part number for the plugs I get from nissan. They are still ngk plugs but were reccomended by my tuner.
thanks
my auto electrician friend has 5 new coilpacks (couldn't find the other one) so im going to get some of those plugs you suggested and change the coilpacks, besides one.. -
I think the fuel problem is done... it starts and idles now, just cuts out and spits under load when driving. possibly coilpacks? i still need to clean my plugs
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Changed the filter, slightly better but still not revving properly down low.
Thanks for the tip cal, fuel is coming out on decel.
Since my plugs are black should i get new ones again?
I think i will replace fuel pump and plugs.
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That's the obvious thing to do, and not particularly hard to do.
I'm curious how dirty it was to be jammed.
I'm going to replace the fuel pump and filter, if that doesn't fix it f**k it im going rb25
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Arsehole it. Find another one.
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I took the FPR off and it was seized, cleaned it got it moving again and still nothing.
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Black plugs is way too rich, so the injectors are too big without some sort of control to make it run right.
sounds like they are using all the fuel, so none is returned.
What mods were done to that motor? Compression test? Leaking injectors? Blocked or kinked fuel line? Clean filters? Afm plugged in?
How did you test fuel pressure?
Rubber hose can kink under suction, like the fuel pump intake.
Once i left a rag in my intake pipe, doh! That made it run like sht.
the injectors are only stock, no mods to the engine what so ever besides a front mount intercooler. pressure was tested by an auto electrician with a fuel pressure gauge, it showed good pressure but shit fuel flow. i will replace the fuel filter on monday when i can buy one but surely it couldnt just be that could it? i will check the lines for kinked pipes thanks
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Are you sure that you have the fuel supply and return connected to the correct side of the rail and reg and so on? Have you put a pressure gauge on it to see if the reg is actually doing anything?
this is the order i have it in
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fuel pressure is fine, fuel flow is not
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ALSO when i spray carby cleaner in the intake it runs fine
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it seems to run better when i disconnect the vaccum line off the FPR.. but still not running properly
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Alright so i need help with my fuel return. I bought and rb20det and when i went to start it up for the first time it ran like shit. I had the injectors professionally cleaned as two were had it so it was running on 4 cyl, but it only seemed to make it run worse. all vac lines are hooked up, plenty of fuel going into the injectors but nothing is coming out of the return line. any ideas? i put new spark plugs in recently and they are already black from fuel.
help much appreciated thanks
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While you are at it, put a new clutch, throw out bearing, spigot bush and rear main. You probly already were going to just thought I would say it.
Yep all that stuffs coming in the mail
thanks though -
i did try google but all that came up was 240sx forums. Thank you guys for your help, I think I will take the 33 gearbox advice. I got it thrown in with the engine anyway so I might just sell that and look for a 25 box while I set everything else up. I got the engine way to cheap and way to many parts to get the thing running to consider a 25 engine though so I will pursue through the hate and use that. Thanks allRB20E not RB20DE (in R33s that is). They are as rare as hen's teeth in Australia though. The only ones that ever came in came as mistakes. No-one in their right mind would ever want one. So finding the tailshaft out of one these days would be next to impossible.
mattymatty. Search using google. Don't search ANY forum ANYWHERE using the in-built search function. Tell google you want to search sau.com.au and it will search just that site, and search properly. Literally EVERY question you can come up with has probably been asked here before. Except perhaps about fitting an RB20 into a boat.
Here's the thing. When putting RB25 turbo box into R32 you have to get the front half of the front half (note the repetition is NOT a mistake) of the R33 tailshaft and graft it onto the shortened front half of the R32 tailshaft. If you want to do it the other way around, then you just have to do the opposite of what I just said. It would be money better spent on getting an RB25 instead of an RB20, but there you go.
And hardsteppa. Just f**k off mate.
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he is putting an rb in a skyline
what is there to understand?
I can't find the answer im looking for on search
, are you saying that i need to find an r33 that had the factory rb20de? or would a na r32 tailshaft work also? -
There's a few thousand
edit* my bad picture didnt work off my phone, had to do it on a computer.
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In anything really, mostly your fabrication qualifications. What right do you have to talk down a cert 4 in engineering fabrication? You wanna tell me I can't make some engine mounts? You seem like someone that works in an office to me. "Oh I went to tafe 2 days a week" hahah go on you pass a welding test and tell me it's easyIn what?
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Well to put it into perspective
I paid 4k recently for a registered tidy R33 Gts-t
Which is why some of us are saying its a waste of time
Wow that's cool, and totally irrelevant to my thread. I didn't ask for the price of registered 33s I asked for tail shaft help, I'm really happy for you and your purchase but I'd rather do it my way. I enjoy working on my cars and would have fun building it. Is it that hard for you to understand what I'm saying?
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So still waiting for your qualificationsI'm sure you do
Gogo name what you have
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Also it's pretty obvious calling someon and their plans retarded is a bit more than rude, and you know you were doing it. I didn't tell you guys anything and I wasn't rude to anyone who wasn't a tosser to me first.
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I got my engine and almost every part besides tail shaft for under a grand, rolling shell was under a grand as well so make up the 4 grand for me
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do you think I would rather spend money welders? I need to work I don't need a skyline engine, it won't make me any money will it. Actually if you can read I asked if any other tail shafts would fit instead of me modifying. Don't just say I said shit to support your argument. Will post a picture of all my welded when I get to my computerHeaps of money in mig welders but no money for a shell or decent engine?
Cool.
Anyway you know your answer. The tails haft will need changing. So either shorten it or lengthen it when you do the conversion. You can do it. You told us.
my auto electrician friend has 5 new coilpacks (couldn't find the other one) so im going to get some of those plugs you suggested and change the coilpacks, besides one..
Rb25 Series 1 Gearbox Speedo Sender.
in Drivetrain and transmission
Posted
Might be a long shot but does anyone know what wire coming out of the speedo sender is the the earth and what is the speedo wire?