rickskylinebnr32gtrjp
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Posts posted by rickskylinebnr32gtrjp
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XKLABA,
I'm running 2.2 bar boost and not using a relay and like I said pretty rich A/F mixtures at WOT. And these coils work WAY better than my Splitfires using the same power source and dwell.
Although, I did replace my engine harness about 5 years ago so my power/ground wiring might be in better condition than other cars with 20+ year old wiring.
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Scott,
I thought I read in a couple of places that the stock dwell was 1700ms. If 2500ms that could be why mine are working without breaking up even with a rich 10.5:1 WOT A/F mix.
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I didn't use a relay. I just connected the power/ground from the Mojo harness to the stock power/ground plug and everything works as advertised.
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Okay, so I just tested my "parts store" made in China Araparts D585 coils and I have to say that I am pleasantly surprised that it ran a full 32psi of boost with no misfire. Although, I didn't do a full run through all the gears to redline, I thought if it was going to break up at all I would have seen or noticed it. Now, I haven't talked to my tuner yet about changing the dwell so I assumed that my HKS FCon V-Pro was still set at stock dwell settings. I'm thinking that either the dwell was already increased with the Splitfires that were in the car before or the HKS ECU is doing something that I don't know about.
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What about the complete kit ?
Do the Delco coils have inbuilt ignitors ?
I'll let Rick B answer your questions about the kits available.
As for the igniters, yes, they are built into the D585 coils.
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So the real D585's are made by AC Delco, right? I just want to be sure so I order the right set.
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Good to go! Started right up faster than my old Splitfire coil packs and no throttle modulation on cold start like I used to have to do to keep the idle from dying before warming up. That's impressive. Going to take the car out for a spin in the next day or two to see how the boost holds up with stock dwell.
Regarding the aftermarket coils, it is my understanding that there are varying qualities and while pretty much all of them are made in China, many of the OEM's are also made in China. The coils I bought are made by Araparts and they seem to have a decent reputation and on Amazon most of the reviews for these coil packs are "5" with only a few "4"'s. I should find out soon enough if the aftermarket ones can't stand up to the abuse.
Rick B: Do you have any specific test data or videos that I can look at to see what you're referring to?
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The wiring from the ECU side (firing order) that was given to me in the Mojo kit instructions looks like it's wrong. I'm going to test it shortly to see if what I found checks out. I guess I should have looked before cutting wires.
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Photo of the Mojo harness/kit:
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Your setup would have no affect when cranking, and stock dwell will work you coils pretty well, so setting is seriously wrong.
Have you checked voltage ar the coils? Was there another earth to install?
I'm not familiar with that kit, is it possible to connect the coil loom in the wrong order?
I thought the same (that it should start and run at idle at the very least).
No, I have not had a chance to check voltage at the coils yet. I need to do that. Yes the harness has it's own ground that I have connected/grounded along with the engine harness ground using one of the bolts for the mounting kit that screws into the head.
No, I don't think it's possible to connect the individual connectors in the harness in the wrong order. Also, the kit comes color coded and with a great install diagram to match up to the stock wiring. I verified the colors on all wires and they appear to be accurate.
I don't know anyone first hand who has used the LQ9 coils connected to an HKS FCon V-Pro ECU. Also, the cam timing is not zeroed out so there is some overlap at idle.
The Mojo Performance kit is a plug on coil setup and I have read that without the resistance of the plug wires or resistor type spark plugs that there could be an issue as well.
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Installed my kit from Rick B at Mojo Performance and the engine is not starting. A few things to note. I have a piggy-back HKS FCon V-Pro ECU that is already tuned. Fully built forged motor with billet crank, Bullseye 375R turbo boosting 2.2 bar, redline set to 9500 rpm, 270 degree 10.8mm lift cams, high flow head, 1000cc Sard injectors, NGK Racing (temp 8 or 9) iridium spark plugs. ECU is still set to stock dwell so I thought I would plug in the new LQ9 coils (Araparts version) and Mojo wiring to test before having my tuner mess with the dwell settings. Well, the car won't start and misfires occasionally during the attempt to start. Any ideas? Is my setup to aggressive for stock dwell? Not enough spark at stock dwell settings? Or is something else going on?
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It's definitely an LED problem. I cut the wires to the LED to reuse the connector then soldiered them on to a red 12-LED strip that works great! So to pass inspection, I'm going to figure out how I want to permanently mount the LED strip (I might use clear tape for temporary mounting) inside the window. Also, going to plasti-dip the red lens so the inspectors won't be confused and tell me that the original light needs to be repaired.
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Fail at some point? Hasn't it lasted well enough? Mine is still going strong after 13 years.
Try Amayama for new pricing, I think you will find it's not worth the effort.
Honestly, I don't know when mine failed and I have had the car for 2 years. It is 12 years old now. I would guess that if it's an LED problem, that UV and heat probably have something to do with it. Living here in Okinawa, Japan it is subtropical and the heat, humidity, and corrosion as well as UV are very strong here. I replaced sun damaged parts 10+ years ago on my R32 GTR only to have the sun damage the replaced parts (seals, weather stripping, wiper arms, rubber trim, plastic interior pieces, etc.) again. So, that's where I'm coming from if that helps define my statement of a new light failing again at some point. In this environment, it will be sooner than later and not if, but when.
As far as replacing parts, I go to the Nissan dealer out in town and with the yen getting weaker against the US$, the parts prices are getting more reasonable.
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Found the pics of the old one, should have taken some with lens off...
give you an idea of where to start anyway with your plan.
I have a friend with a spare LED strip like the one I used to install in my R32 GTR as a 3rd brake light (at the rear headliner inside the back glass) for the gee whiz aspect of it. Not sure if the hole where the wires pass through will be big enough to slide a new LED strip into or not. I may have to ream it out a bit for the LED strip to fit. Then there's the direction of the lighting to deal with, if it will be straight, etc. and if opening the hole more, I'll have to close it up with some sealant so water doesn't make it's way in. I'm not looking forward to messing with this. If I could get away without one that would be even better, but I definitely don't want to have to pay for a new one that will ultimately fail at some point as well.
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I suspect mine failed when it was still in Japan as I have a random cable that runs up the right hand side of my tailgate. Can't think of what else it could be for.
Do you think the cable in yours replaces the stock cabling only or also has a new LED strip? Curious if this problem is a wiring problem or an LED problem. From the first comment seemed like it was an LED problem, and now from what you are saying, it could be a wiring problem. I guess an easy test lamp check should confirm or deny the wiring.
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Fellow M35 owners, have any of you run into the 3rd brake light problem of it not working? And if so, what did you do to repair it?
Mine actually flashes on for a split second sometimes, but turns right back off even if the brakes are depressed and the other normal brake lights stay on. Also, if I bang on the 3rd brake light while the brake is depressed I can sometimes get it to flash but turns right back off.
Is the LED bulb assembly bad? Seems as if it's acting like there's a short in there somewhere. I plan on removing the plastic interior panel on the back to get to the assembly from underneath. Then use a test lamp to check the wiring. If the assembly is bad, I'm not so sure I want to purchase a new one from Nissan. If I can get inside the LED assembly, I may just wire in a new LED strip of lights myself.
Any thoughts on this?
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Okay, while I was under the car after installing the coupe mid-pipe, I took a look around and noticed that my driver side lower arm inner sleeve bushing was shot and the arm was pushed all the way forward (about 20-30mm). Also, noticed ball joints on both sides were split with grease leaking out. I need to take care of this fairly soon.
Has anyone done a polyurethane bushing set upgrade to their Stagea's? I know the suspensions are very similar with the Z's and Skyline's so would a full Energy Suspension poly kit work? -
The stock airbox flows 4 times what you will ever ask of it, and does a great job of filtering the cold air from it's induction.
Wow, the stock airbox will flow over 1000hp? LOL. Sorry, I had to go there and I hope that was an exaggeration. Just to get an idea of where I'm coming from, I have a 900hp GTR that has a 5 1/2 inch inlet for my Bullseye (Borg Warner frame) S375R turbo with a 9-inch funnel that I don't use a filter with at all. Would you call that overkill or should I have left my stock airbox in there too and just necked down the intake to match up?
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I live in an area that is dusty in summer and bloody wet in winter (lots of unavoidable deep standing water on the local highway) and I do not like oiled filters which is why I went with the R2C (after a LOT of research into filter medium and design).
It performs better than the Nismo filter and the K&N intake that came with the car from Japan, I also get slightly better fuel economy with it.
My intake gets no dirt in it during summer and I have never had an issue with hydrolocking- nor do I expect to.
The Nismo intake comes with a secondary foam filter that sits in the engine bay but is much more restrictive than the lower filter section.
Theory behind the design is that if the lower filter were to become submerged or coated in mud etc, there would then be less resistance from the secondary filter which would become the primary.
I don't know if R2C have a replacement for the Stillen box, best to ask them. They do have a number of replacements specifically for other manufacturer's intakes - they asked which intake I have and recommended a filter (although it is a tight fit). I have recently fitted one of their dust boots to it as cleaning them can be a bit of a pain.
Which size R2C filter fits the Nismo CAI? I may go that route. Do you have a photo or details on the dust boot?
The new Black Hex R2C filters are located at this link (http://www.r2cperformance.com/conical-filters---turbo--street-and-drag-.aspx) if you can see what yours measures, I can order one of these.
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Easily dropped 30lbs off the car by switching from the stock large resonator mid-pipe to the coupe mid-pipe. The exhaust has a slightly deeper tone to it so there's probably a little better flow. The front part of the piping rests against the tunnel support (driveshaft catch bar). Planning on hammering that bar up just a tad to provide the needed clearance in order to cut down on the vibration and noise experienced with the exhaust touching the body of the car.
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The Crawford plenum. They offer it coated black for less or polished for a little more. Looks nice and should do the trick.
https://www.crawfordz.com/premiumplenum.htm
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Okay, I've just seen the Crawford plenum and now I'm thinking that would be better than the Kinetix V+ and the spacer. Anyone have experience with the Crawford plenum?
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$1500-$2000?? we pay less then that landed in australia buying out of japan brand new. I am sure if you look around you will be find a second hand one.
I must have confused that with a different exhaust system. Yeah, I found the Nismo for US$750 here in Japan. Not bad at all. I may go that route a bit later.
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If you can get a hold of a stagea single tip nismo system, they flow better then stock and are only slightly louder then stock. Plus full stainless
Okay, good to know. If I find one used I would be interested because a Nismo full exhaust probably runs $1500-2000 and I'm not putting that much money into my Stagea exhaust system while I have a drag R32 GTR that demands most of my resources.
Installing Front Roll Centre Spacers - Problem
in Suspension, braking and tyres
Posted
Ollie,
Why not just pull the CV spline straight out of the hub so as to move it out of the way? Nothing is holding it in place.