Rufus007
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Posts posted by Rufus007
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eBay: 'g37 high flow cat'
A few there to pick from
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On 30/06/2017 at 3:31 PM, petern said:
I reckon it is the VCT being sensitive to oil used.
I had Penrite 10 tenth in the car for a period of 5000km and it had the stutter at random times - cold, warm hot...
Change to Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 - not a single stutter
2007 V36 sedan with 50,xxxkm
Can't hurt to try on the next oil change
How long have you been running the Mobil oil for? I find whenever the oil is freshly changed there is no stuttering with any brand / type etc. Strange, but the stuttering then comes back soon. I've had best ongoing results with Castrol edge 0w40 (density 0.841) iny car tho. If you read some USA threads apparently lower density helps
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On 2017-5-25 at 5:06 PM, moleman_1 said:
Ok so I managed to solve the issue!
It was a fuse that was missing in the fuse box in front of the battery. The fuse is named 'anti theft ACC' it's a 10A fuse.
The fuse was actually missing from my car for some reason...
So I popped a 10A fuse in there when I seen it was empty just because I thought it needed to be there since it was pretty much the only one missing and then when I took it for a drive afterwards I noticed it didn't stutter like it usually does. Now I've taken the car for a drive a couple of times and haven't noticed the stuttering come back at all. So it must've been the damn fuse!
On 2017-5-25 at 5:06 PM, moleman_1 said:Ok so I managed to solve the issue!
It was a fuse that was missing in the fuse box in front of the battery. The fuse is named 'anti theft ACC' it's a 10A fuse.
The fuse was actually missing from my car for some reason...
So I popped a 10A fuse in there when I seen it was empty just because I thought it needed to be there since it was pretty much the only one missing and then when I took it for a drive afterwards I noticed it didn't stutter like it usually does. Now I've taken the car for a drive a couple of times and haven't noticed the stuttering come back at all. So it must've been the damn fuse!
As much as I hope this is a fix, I have doubts. I checked mine and while the fuse is also missing, there is only one terminal post for the fuse. Therefore putting one in place in my car would do nothing unfortunately
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5 hours ago, Chris Rogers said:
this looks like the add on boxes out of china. so its not a fully integrated solution by the look of it.
the later cars need a main controller and buttons from a Q60. job done.Yeah you can see in the photos its running Android (which is pretty cool in its own right), probably with a hardware screen overlay to intercept screen touch
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So do they just edit the full temp map to reduce exh timing at light throttle (maybe low rpm also)? If so, are you able to do this yourself? In a similar way you set everything to zero, but just back the numbers off a bit instead?
I spoke with some tuning places in Brisbane, but they all told me the same thing, they don't have the ability to simply raise the oil temp threshold for when exh timing kicks in (which is what the Nissan update does apparently)
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On 11/21/2016 at 10:22 AM, colin.ssc said:
So over the week I've changed my exhaust cam phasing to zero. Stutter and hesitation are now gone. However this would be a temporary fix at best. Not too sure where to go from here. Looks like a VCT issue....ideas, suggestions, thoughts?
Good to have a confirmation on what we thought it was anyway. Obviously will loose power / economy leaving it set at zero. I still think a small resister to lower the oil temp reading will be the best way to go (given difficulty to get software update). I'm happy to experiment and find the right resistor, I think about 10% change will do it. I don't want to remove oil temp sensor in car to throw in a pot of boiling water. So if anyone wants to donate towards this experiment for a possible solution we could split the $150 for a test oil temp sender. Got the price from local Nissan dealer.
It will be important to remember that limp mode will come on slightly higher will this mod, but will only affect if racing etc and not normal driving.
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I cant tell from the photo if that is surface cracks only, or goes all the way through the plastic. But if you drill a tiny hole at the end of each crack, that will stop the cracks spreading further.
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On 7/28/2016 at 11:51 PM, JY93 said:
Nice find! Is it much of a hassle to operate the seats with the covers on?
No Problems at all with the covers on, the side is thin/flexible enough to operate the controls
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For anyone interested, I picked up a set of front seat covers from Repco that fit really well: Gearup Speedstar - $59
I'm not affiliated with Repco in anyway. Thought I'd share though, as I've tried several that don't fit at all.
Does anyone know of a rear seat cover that fits??
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For now I'm going to say don't bother with the knockoff consult 3... The results are inconsistent so I'm not going to chalk this up as a fix. It also can't flash software updates and do a lot of what a real consult can do, plus it freezes the consult 3 program often, so can take a few goes to do any maintenance operations. What it did help was balance the exhaust bank timing: Bank 2 was always 0.5 less then Bank 1 (I don't know if this is degrees or another measurement), but now is fairly even since the relearn. Monitored using NDSIII, which by the way has a Exh relearn button that doesn't work for me.
What I did notice just recently was that everytime the engine stutters, the 'Exh/V Timb1 & Exh/V Timb2' in NDSIII spikes by about 20 (degrees?) before settling back to normal. Not sure how I missed this before, and is still happening since the relearn. Definitely something going on here, and I'll look at this further.
I've downloaded a shittone of reprogramming files, and I'll take my time looking through which ones could work work if using a real consult 3 computer. Of course, my testicles would have to grow 10 fold in size before I would feel comfortable flashing any ECU files myself, but still worth checking out. (wonder if Nissan would rent out a consult 3 machine without leaving the building?)
I think Berni has the best idea for now about changing the engine oil temp with a resistor, even just 10% would probably help. So much to do sigh
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VTC relearn didn't fix the problem 100%, but it helped significantly! Out of the last 7 cold starts, I've had 3 with no stutter, and 4 with minor stutter. Still using Edge 5w30 which stutters worse then Edge 5w40. My plan here is to do the VTC relearn when oil temp is approx 60 deg C instead of at full temp like I did last time at around 90 deg C. Then after a few more thousand kms drop some Edge 0w40 back in and see how that goes. Might be able to help people around Brisbane out with the consult 3 hardware if needed also.
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17 hours ago, R377 said:
is a journey a type P ?
A sport a type S ?
a AWD a type SP
G35 = P
Sport = S
Journey = sort of SP but not quite
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Here is a USA based matrix of options for a 2007 G35 Infiniti. Seems to be the mostly same as Japanese options. There is also similar PDF's for later years floating around the internet, I kept this one since it relates to my V36.
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Relearn is done... only took a few seconds. Lets see how it goes over this week
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Got it from ebay. If you type 'consult 3' into search (without 'nissan') its the first one in the results, seller is chinacardiag. That was the highest rated seller with the best price. Actually it arrived today, I just need to pick up a chinese to Oz power adapter this weekend before I can use it now. Have installed consult 3 on to the WinXP virtual machine and that runs fine so looking forward to getting it all up and running.
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3 hours ago, colin.ssc said:
And apparently that fixes the issue? Or am I being overly optimistic lol
Already answered, exactly 11 posts above this one now
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3 hours ago, colin.ssc said:
Apparently hold more oil than the originals
Any idea what the difference is between our VTC cover and the revised ones for 370GT?
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On 6/29/2016 at 5:18 PM, BTSV_Berni said:
I agree this could work also, something I will try later on if needed. And thanks also for including some technical detail, gives me a good starting point. I went to pick up an extra oil temp sensor from Nissan to play with, but they are $108 so if going that route I'd probably just use the existing. What I have done instead is order the consult 3 hardware clone (but original software). Once this arrives I'm going to have a look at the VTC relearn procedure first, as I don't think the FSM procedure of just holding RPM's btwn 1800-2000 does anything. There is also ECU updates etc but will have to be very careful with those - needs more investigation...
Will report back once I have the consult 3. I already have a windows XP virtual machine up and running with anticipation, since consult won't install on win10.
QuoteYou can go and lower the temperature value which is sent from the sensor to the ECU.
For example: At 40 you have 280 Ohm.
At 60 you have 130 Ohm.
What you do now is: Put a 150 Ohm resistance in series to the sensor and at 60 degrees real temperature the ECU gets
a value of 40 degrees temperature.
Or, if you want to find out the best working resistance value put in a potentiometer 0-500 Ohm and have a play with it.
As soon as you've found the best resistance value replace it with a fixed one, bit heat shrink, neat and tidy. And you know
that the temperature shown on your gauge is behind the real oil temperature always "X" degrees.
But, you have to find out if the resistance changes linear or not. If not you might be better off with the 0-500 Ohm poti.
Cost only a few cents.
Regards, Berni
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Yep this...gotta pay to play with this car unfortunately
V36
Nissan Datascan III for android $10
Jaycar dongle OBD2 $70. (this was after I wasted money on 3 ebay dongles.)
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Well tried and tested, and this doesn't work
All that happens now is engine stutter starts when coolant is around 74 Celsius instead of the previous 80. Maybe the ecu was going off oil temp all along, and maybe the software update just raises the threshold oil temp a bit higher. All speculation of course. Oh well, now I get to install a shiny new thermostat. -
Well, have a look at how much you can purchase/import a car with 120k+ kms on it, and there is your purchase price. Don't pay a cent more as that would be supporting odo tampering imo.
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Hole vs no hole: oil warmup rate is almost identical which is great (didn't want to slow that down).
coolant warmup rate takes about 4.5min longer to reach 80 Celsius, which is approx when VTC kicks in.
with no hole oil temp is at 55 Celsius as coolant reaches 80
with hole oil temp is at 63 Celsius as coolant reaches 80
Both graphs are at idle only, so real road test to follow
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3mm hole drilled. I was just going to cut the jiggler valve off, but there are one-way screws holding the thermostat to the housing making that option difficult. So I used a long drill bit and went through the housing outlet. Some surface gunk on parts of thermostat as you can see - even though internal housing etc was 100% clean, not sure why. Anyway if this doesn't work it's about $80 for a new thermostat + housing.
I'll report back in a week on startup stutter, and also with a new warm-up graph. Wish me luck!
BTW oil does make a difference. Edge 0w40 was great and would only get stutter minor and occasionally. Edge 5w30 does it every single day and just about sends me through the windscreen as the stutter is much worse.
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Ive only used 0w40 until yesterday, I threw some 5w30 in just to see if that made any difference. The answer is nope, still the same stutter. VTC temps etc was all through my own obd2 monitoring, haven't seen anyone else recording and graphing etc.
Wasn't the oil a 0w40? Was pretty sure that was what I was using.
As for the temps and when VTC kicks in, I'm not too sure how it all works, I should start reading up and see if I understand any of it haha...
All that happens now is engine stutter starts when coolant is around 74 Celsius instead of the previous 80. Maybe the ecu was going off oil temp all along, and maybe the software update just raises the threshold oil temp a bit higher. All speculation of course. Oh well, now I get to install a shiny new thermostat.
Cat converter, exhaust, please help
in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti
Posted
I think they are the same fitment, you can always check with the seller