Paulusc44
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Posts posted by Paulusc44
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For sure yeah can throw the multi meter over em, just wanted to see if anyone knew before I possibly throw waay to much fuel in there + Im a Autotronics student and have not been told about this as of yet, was watching an American compression + leak down test and they stressed to depress the throttle all the way to the floor to disable the injectors rather than removing the EFI fuse, pump relay etc.. Just thought it was interesting and wanted to know if it was universal and if Nissan used the same idea
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Hey all,
I have a factory ECU with tuned EPROM and RX7 550cc injectors that run the same resistance as factory RB20DET items..
Just a quick question, is it true that the injectors are 100% disabled if the throttle is at WOT (Max throttle/wide open throttle) during cranking/startup? I know this is the case for some vehicles and some aftermarket ECUs depending on tuning etc, but cant find any info for the S1 RB20DET/RB25DE?
At the moment I believe my cranking pulse width is too big and want to double check this..
Cheers
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Actually, they are. It's not the quality of the spray pattern at high flow that has improved....it is how well they work at low pulse widths that is better with the newer injectors.
I know the modern fuel-injector has a far improved idle (low pulse width and duty cycle) Im just not willing to write them off as "old heaps of shit"?? Tuned correctly, Idle isnt bad with older injectors, (remember were talking late 80s/early 90s JECS here) and as previously discussed, spray-pattern/atomizing of fuel at high duty cycle and pulse width is fine. My point is, this is a S1 RB25+T running a factory-like setup to achieve a simple 200-220 KW on low boost, not a built RB26 aiming for 400KW for example, spending $800-$1000 on injectors is foolish when one can get a set of S5 RX7 550cc injectors and dyno tuned Nistune board for $1200?
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The cold start valve lets air into the system. So it has absolutely no effect on how much fuel is injected. If you actually do have too much fuel at cranking time, then letting more air in won't be a bad thing.
The best thing you can do is do a Nistune ECu at least (or some other programmable jobbie) and deal with the starting mixture issue directly.
Cheers GTSBoy.. Was originally going with a Nistune board as I can get them for a really sharp price here in NZ.. But due to study Im forced to sell the 32 and clear up funds.. Most people would sell the car as is but im one of those anal pricks and want top dollar haha
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And the next best thing to do would be get some at least half decent injectors rather than those old heaps of shit in there now
The build was done on a planned budget so I only had x amount to spend on each item, 6 x 666cc or 1000cc bosh injectors go for $660 & $780 respectively here, IDs are no cheaper.. I picked these up for $280 shipped, have you actually thrown a pair of 20 year old JECS into a injector bench tester before? Hardly "old heaps of shit"..
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Recently fired up my S1 R25DE+T, engine has received alot of work over the last 6 months including larger turbo, injectors, fresh gaskets throughout etc..
First time starting with new setup and eprom tune.
Runs pretty good, still have a few little things to sort but its all there.
The engine now runs 550cc RX-7 injectors with walbro 255 LPH pump and adj pressure reg.
Its sometimes hesitant to start, I believe its putting too much fuel into the engine whilst cranking, I deleted the cold start valve when I did the new setup but am now thinking of putting in back in, I have done a resistance test on it and its perfect according to my R32 workshop manual, will this aid in supplying less fuel to the engine on start up? Or put the engine in open loop and put even more fuel in? basically, Will this help the engine start?
Any info/help is great as start up is really the only issue, it currently has no O2 sensor but I will be putting a new NTK item in over the next few weeks with new downpipe, vehicle has only idled/lightly revved so far.
Cheers
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The check valves all leak. When you turn our Subaru off it moans like a bitch for about 5 seconds. This is why ECUs will generally run the fuel pump for a few seconds when you turn the ignition on (but not to crank)....to reprime the rail.
I can imagine over time the check valves in factory fuel pumps would leak.. It just surprises me as this is a 6 month old genuine walbro, and the check valve was working fine in it last time I checked.. (Rail held pressure etc)
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Depends if your fuel pump has a check valve in it. It's not the reg letting the pressure drop yet it's dropping the other way back threw the pump. Unsure if that pump actually has a check valve or not yet that's why you loosing pressure rapidly once ign off.
Are there EFI fuel pumps without check-valves in them? I thought all modern fuel pumps had a check valve?
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Of course. The whole ECU controlled 2 step voltage on the pump is only to reduce noise and fuel heating at idle. The stock FPR is easily able to control the pressure across the full range of engine demand with the stock (or larger) pump running flat out. Your aftermarket reg would be even more capable.
Cool, just wanted to check, I actually ended up using the pump under regular conditions (using factory relay) dont know if you remember my question I asked you about a week back about my fuel pump? Thinking the relay was dead I powered it directly with 13 v, ran it for a few seconds, and then re-connected the factory connector just to double check it wasent working and.. woolah the thing worked again without being directly powered and has been working fine ever since?
Also, am I correct in saying fuel pressure should be held in the rail at all times? (ign on and off) I can set my FPR to whatever pressure I like (45 PSI in this case) and it will stay at that pressure with the fuel pump running, but when I turn ign off, the pressure begins to drop off quite sharply? Im thinking diaphram/valve in the FPR itself? (Its new/under warranty) Obviously this doesent effect running but still..
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Hey all,
Recently went to fire up my rebuilt S1 RB25 which has had some decent upgrades carried out on it over the last 6 months..
Found the Fuel Pump wasent running (Walbro 255 L.P.H) So simply hard wired it in without using a relay and got it to work..
My Question is, under constant power can I still control fuel pressure and run it for a short time? ( I have a Japanese Adj. FPR fitted)
Is amperage flow suitable?
Cheers
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Well, like pretty much anything else in a car, the circuit is switched on the earth side. Having 12V there is a good start, but you need to see whether you're getting the other side going to ground when the pump should be on. The whole lot is controlled by the ECU, and there is a fuel pump relay and module interposed between the ECU and the actual big current flow through the pump. They are a known weak point for failure in general, and obviously the likely place to look.
You just need the wiring diagrams from the R32 GTR workshop manual pdf. The RB20 engine stuff is in there too, because the same manual covers the GTS4.
Yeah man was pretty much at that point of things, was wondering if I could by pass the 4 pin relay control circuit for the signal? This would effectively run the pump the entire time I know but its saves me a semi-dodgy bench test? (as fuel pumps can be) Like, feeding signal and power directly from the battery and then earthing the pump directly on the chassis? Any ideas? And just to get back to the negatively switched components, true, but you would be amazed at how many European manufacturers have attempted to use positive switching in the past haha
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Haha Just went to fire up the thing, have done an entire range of mods over the last 6 months without starting it up.. no puel pump? Ive got 12+ volts at the + pump wire? Im thinking ign. signal? Is there a way to by-pass this directly from the battery to check? Fuel pump is a 12 month old Walbro 255LPH
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Yes.
ok cool, cheers, Ive got a cheeky fuel pump question too if you feel like helping out? haha
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It all ends up at the same ground at the ECU. Ground is ground. Zero volts. You don't actually think that the 5V is relative to another completely isolated ground do you?
So judging by what your simply saying here I can join my 2 earths (signal + chassis) and then route them to the R33 S2 "earth" pin? Im fully aware what a 5 volt reference signal does, and on alot of later model vehicles a 3 pin MAF or MAP is far more common, which leads me to believe I can simply join them? Im just double checking
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Ground is ground.
Not when your working with a 5 Volt reference signal.. The Grounding should technically happen across the AFM not the chassis. This is where my confusion began haha might just try and sort it myself with a multimeter and see what I come up with
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Ive already got that info but notice how it simply says "ground" for R33 S2 while the others (R32 RB20DET in my case) say either "signal ground" or "12v ground"? Twist together or?
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Have searched, info is varied.
Have removed plug from loom etc, and have info off internet on basic wiring inputs for R33 S2 AFM and R32 RB20DET AFM.
R32 AFM has 4 inputs/pins
R33 AFM has 3 inputs/pins
I know where to put the (12v) power and (5v) signal wires, but on the R32 loom there is both an earth for chassis and earth for signal, and we have only 1 pin left on the R33 AFM? one to chassis and one to AFM im thinking??
Whats the go here?
Cheers
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As above, pressure is equal from outlet of pump through to the FPR.. Would be suprised if an VQ35/37 Item would directly fit to an RB26 rail but the thumbnails youve provided actually look very close?
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Hey all,
I have factory ignition coils.. Those familar will know the black liquid tape/paint that sits on the metal of the coil (where the coil mounts to the mounting plate) Much of this has perished.. Is this going to cause an insulation problem?
Cheers
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Wow Ive been given some shit for this one haha.. Didnt have a Multimeter about this morn and was being a semi lazy bastard haha, I say semi lazy because I did have a search but the Same part number applies for both high and low impedance 13b Jecs.. Only difference was the connector colour which ofcourse has been changed.. p.s 2001 was a great year.
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Hey all,
Have just installed 6 X RX-7 550cc Injectors into my RB using the factory rail etc.. Injectors have been modified with an RB26 receiver so they plug straight up
Have also just rebuilt injectors with speed-flow kits for peace of mind..Anyways.. Does anyone know the exact resistance these injectors run from factory? Apparently its slightly different to an RB26 Injector..
Just wondering so I can go out and get the correct resistor..
Any further info on the resistor install would be great also
Cheers
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Get the R32 GTR service manual pdf off your uncle Torrence and look at the RB2 engine wiring diagram which is in the back after the RB26 stuff.
True story.
Ahh haha I dloaded that a while back.. was having a look at it last night and thought Id be cheeky and try to save myself 20 mins.
Are you absolutley sure this is a true story?
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A31 Block in R32 Chassis.. R32 Dash has Oil Pres Gauge + Low Pres light.. A31 Dash only has Oil Pres Gauge..
R32 has 2 wires (Yellow+White, Yellow+Blue) A31 Oil pres sender only has 1 pin.. So.. Which wire is for Oil Pres and which wire is for the Low Pres Warning Light?
My plan is to simply slide the pin which is for the Oil Pres onto the A31 Oil Pres Sender and then either earth the remaining wire or run it to 12v?? Still unsure..
Dont want to swap sender units as I know this can be done, found forums a while ago but have lost them
Cheers
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The slot in the rear belt guide plate is there so you can easily fit the plate without having to remove the woodruff keys.
Once in position it's way behind any key.
But it's not going to slip/rotate or whatever on the crank.
The balancer bolt pulls up the whole show against a shoulder on the crank.
That's balancer, front belt guide, crank gear, rear belt guide, oil pump gear……..all hard up against the crank shoulder.
Cheers for the excellent description mate, thats what I suspected.. Just needed a bit more torque on the crank bolt..
Max Throttle = Disabled Injectors During Cranking/starting?
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted · Edited by Paulusc44
Ok cool, I know theres no switch but was wondering if maybe the ECU could sense max voltage output from the TPS or if the TPS had a max voltage contact or something like that.. Obviously not though haha
Im simply going to apply + Temperature to the 2 pin Coolant temp sensor before cranking to see what effects this has on starting, have just done a resistance test on it and all working fine, surprising how flat the cranking pulse width variance is but there is a quite a difference between say 0 and 40' C.. Should give me a good idea on whether or not the pulse width is to large at startup.. Only have limited time to spend on it as Im at uni and have to travel between Citys to work on her