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vannic

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Posts posted by vannic

    Knocking Sound

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    any input here would be much appreciated. i've done some searching and can't find any real answers to this. once or twice a year, i get a knocking noise coming from somewhere in my engine bay. i think it's coming from the passenger side somewhere. the sound comes up really badly at the start, it sounds like a hollow knock, like if you were to knock the engine with your knuckles. it goes in time with the revs and sounds absolutely terrible. thing is that if you take it for a bit of a drive . . . taking it easy on the revs and change gear really early, it seems to stay under control . . . to a point. then is gets better and maybe the next day or the day after it's gone all together.

    this has happened once or twice a year since i got the car 5 years ago. it's a r33 gts s1. the first time it happend it was after i'd parked on a bit of a hill overnight, but the last few times that hasn't been the case. the last time i'd been mucking around around in the fusebox and hadn't started the car for only about a day. there doesn't seem to be any common factors that cause the noise.

    any ideas?

    Ignition Barrel Wiring

    in General Maintenance

    Posted · Edited by vannic

    hi guys,

    i've wired a push button start into my car (R33 GTS). it's a cool little way to start the car . . . a little piece of the new GTR. when i tested the wires on the back of the ignition barrel, there was one that doesn't make sense to me. i've found 12v from battery, ACC, IGN and Starter, but there is one more that i can't work out what it is. The following link is a wiring diagram found on the forums here, but it shows it only as "F".

    http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/

    I wouldn't worry too much about it but the car is having trouble starting with the push button and i'm thinking i might have done something wrong.

    any ideas on the mystery wire? the diagram shows it come from the ignition barrel, through a fuse and to the ECCS.

    cheers guys

    What Battery Are You Using?

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    i know batteries have been discussed to death and there are a number of posts on what people can use. it seems that wrxhoon's group buy thread is a winner on this topic. however, i was just wondering what other people are using in their r33's and how good they are. it might be useful for people who are battery shopping to have a good list of the decent batteries they can use.

    personally i'm working on a battery isolator circuit at the moment with a SLA backup battery becuase i'm running a ton of electrics off it . . . but i also don't care much about boot space. a decent main battery is a must though.

    4 Stud Hubs

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Can anyone help. when i bought my R33 it had 4 stud hubs fitted. now that i'm in the market for some new rims, i can't find anything i like with the 4 stud pattern. everyone i've spoken to says that it is wierd to have the 4 instead of 5 stud pattern and i'd have to agree. has anyone got any idea how much it'd cost to convert it back to the 5 stud standard hubs?

    cheers guys

    Air/fuel Gauge... How Does It Work?

    in Western Australia

    Posted · Edited by vannic

    i took this from this link Cheaply Monitoring Air/Fuel Ratios. i'm building the jaycar air/fuel mixture kit at the moemtn and the instructions that come with it have a fantastic explaination of the air/fuel mixture gauge.

    All unleaded petrol cars use an exhaust gas oxygen sensor. As the name suggests, this sensor is mounted in the exhaust flow - usually in the exhaust manifold - and sniffs the composition of the exhaust gas. Specifically, it measures the ratio of oxygen in the exhaust gas with that in the atmosphere. It does this is to determine whether the air/fuel ratio is rich, stoichiometric, or lean. The ECU uses this information as part of its self-learning technique, . . . The most commonly used sensor generates its own voltage output, which varies between 0-1 volt. In round terms, if the sensor output is about 0.2 volts or less the mixture is lean, and if the output voltage is over 0.8 volts it is rich. However, the precise value of the output voltage is less important than its relative value - whether it is "richer" or "leaner" than the mid-point voltage.

    The ECU constantly adjusts the mixture depending on the driving conditions. ie. if you are accelerating, you require more fuel in the mixture so the ECU tells the injectors to inject more fuel and resulting in a richer mix. if you're backing off, its just the opposite.

    hope this helps

    Headlight Adjustment

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    i tried adjusting my headlights tonight, but no matter how much i turned (what i thought was) the adjustment mechanism, there was no noticable difference. just to check, the adjusters are the hex/phillips bolts attached to the back side of the headlight assembly? outside one facing back into the engine bay, insided one facing vertical, correct????

    anyone got any ideas? i'm thinking the mechanism might be damaged somehow.

    R33 Glass Headlights

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Have you tried a Nissan Dealership that sales import parts. On previous occations i found new parts CHEAPER than second hand parts :P

    that's true. my local nissan dealer (ferntree gully) deals in import parts which completely surprised me. however, i think a new headlight assembly would be big $$$. might be worth asking tho.

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