Brad13
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Posts posted by Brad13
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Yeah I've swapped out both the diff and tailshaft
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Had it in only a fortnight ago to have the inner tie rods and rack ends replaced. CV's seem fine to me and I'm sure they would have said something if they were busted. They even replaced the cv boots for me cos they were a little worn
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Unfortunately nothing yet. I've replaced the tailshaft in mine which made absolutely no difference. I've also replaced the diff to rule out diff backlash but that hasn't changed anything either
I bought a nismo gearbox mount the other week which I plan to swap in shortly. Honestly if that doesn't solve it I'm a bit stumped as to what else it could be.
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The rattle that I had was coming from the exhaust heatshield just after the manifold. It's a 2 piece heatshield there if I remember correctly and it was just touching. It would only make the sound when taking of in low rpm.
How'd you fix it in the end? Did you just tighten the bolts or do you have to remove the heat shield? I'm looking at it now but it isn't the easiest part to visually inspect without taking a bunch of other stuff off to get to it
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I haven't solved it unfortunately, I haven't checked that manifold heat shield though I'll definitely have a look at that. Your symptoms are literally the exact same as mine though
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It's more or less stock, has a fmic & a boost tee running 10psi but that's about it. I've upgraded the fuel pump about 6 month's ago to a DW 300 and replaced the fuel filter about 1,500km's ago in the last service (It's been doing it for a few months now but it's just really beginning to get on my nerves. I've also tried running the fuel system cleaners which hasn't helped. I hate that it's such a relatively simple problem I can't seem to diagnose or fix...at least I hope it's simple!
I have another mate with a 33 too and his has started doing the same thing. We're both stumped.
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I should also add that I've cleaned the air idle control valve which hasn't solved it either unfortunately
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Hi all - my R33 has developed an issue lately when cold starting. It splutters about and struggles for a few seconds after starting. It's fine after it's started and runs great, but unless I hold the key a second longer when starting or blip the throttle while turning over it has this issue. I've done plenty of searches on here but this was the best I could find so i know plenty of people have experienced it but that his thread has no definitive cause or fixes for it yet.
http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404800-r33-skyline-start-up-problems-in-the-morning/page-3
I've replaced my o2 sensor with a brand new one, spark plugs are new and battery is all good. Any help would be great, it's doing my head in!
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I've had the car up on stands and had a good look around. Cv's and subframe bolts all seem tight and solid. I'm now leaning towards this possibly being the tail shaft bearing as there's also a rattle/vibration I can hear at low revs or when under load going up a hill.
Does that sound plausible and would there be any way to go about checking it?
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Still haven't had a chance to get it up on stands to have a look around underneath. Will hopefully get a chance this weekend and I'll look over the CV's.
If they do knock is there a fix for them or will they have to be replaced altogether?
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I ended up buying remsa pads for the front from brakes direct and put them in without shims or brake lube as that's that the guy recommended. Squeal was as worse as ever.
Pulled it apart again a couple of weeks ago and used bendix grease on all 4 corners and fitted the stock shims back in. Squeal has gone! For now...
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Any pics of the area you mean? I have the same sound and I'd like to know where to look. Do you mean the parts that bolt the subframe to the car (i.e where you would put the subframe collars?)
Thanks guys, agreed that any pics of what I should be checking would be extremely helpful if possible. Just want to make sure I'm not looking for the wrong thing
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As soon as I get the chance I'll have a look. Was hoping it might be an easy fix
It wouldn't have anything to do with hicas at all would it? I wouldn't have thought it would caused this but I've heard of some people hearing a knock from the rear of their car with the Hicas unit still in.
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I can feel it through the back of the seat, wouldn't think engine mounts would be the cause of that would they?
How difficult is the tail shaft bearing to replace?
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They seemed to be fine when I replaced the diff. It does it even with minimal acceleration, if anything it's a lot more noticeable then too
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Hi guys, I seem to have a bit of a bump after letting off the accelerator in my 96 R33 GTST. I originally thought it was diff backlash so I've swapped the diff but it hasn't made any difference. I'm all out of ideas as to what it could be. Any suggestions?
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Tried vise grips as well, even they were slipping. Ended up getting a grinder with plans to cut off the extra thread but a mate came up with an idea of grinding down a ring spanner to make it thinner. Got it straight on and managed to get them cracked, worked perfectly!
Thanks for all the tips guys!
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Hey guys, have a LOT of trouble trying to crack the bolts where the tail shaft attaches to the diff on my R33 S2 (abs). We've got 1 out of 4 off, and the other 3 just won't budge. Cannot get a ring spanner on so we have to use open ended spanners and they're just slipping and rounding off the nuts.
We've tried soaking them in wd40 and have used a butane torch to heat them up but still no luck. Surely someone else has encountered this problem when changing the diff, if any one has tips I'd be extremely grateful!!
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I've probably done around 3 or 4 thousand K's on them now so they've had plenty of time to bed in. I keep hearing plenty of good things about EBC pads so I'm considering getting a set of those, just want the squeal to stop!! I have the sumitomo calipers, what colour would you recommend for a street driven 33 with the occasional mountain run every now and then? Redstuff?
Also would I need to run the stock shims with them or better without?
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Thanks I'll check them out!
GTRPSI - Just how tight does the spring loaded plate have to be? It sits in there quite firm, I can pull the bottom pin out by just pushing down on the bottom of the plate with my finger to relieve the tension. Is this what it should be like or should it be so tight that it gets to the point where I need tools to push the plate in?
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So I put the shims in this afternoon and they still squeal as bad as ever! I have to have narrowed it down enough now to assume it's the bendix pads that are in there.
I'm going to start looking for a new set - probably one of the ones you guys have suggested. Is there anywhere in Brisbane that sells them preferably around the city or will I have to order online?
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I just picked up a set of the stock shims, I'll put them in as soon as I get the chance and let you know how it turns out
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I've roughed them up with 60 grit sandpaper both times I had to pull them out for the anti squeal stuff and the shims I put in. Seems ok for about 15 minutes or so then the squeal comes back. I'm now at the point where I don't know if I should be replacing the pads or trying to source the genuine shims for it.
The pads still have about 90% left on them and I'd probably end up replacing them with bendix ultimates which I've heard mixed reviews about. I just don't see how the shims can make all the difference if I've got the universal shims on there now which have done absolutely nothing
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It appears so yeah
Only squeals under 30km/h, doesn't seem to matter how hard I put my foot down
WTB: R33 GTR Spoiler Wing in KR4 Silver
in For Sale (Car parts and other accessories)
Posted
Hi I'm chasing an R33 GTR spoiler ideally in KR4 silver so I don't have to repaint.
Would also be a bonus if it came with the boot lid.
Located in Brisbane