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Posts posted by jjcb
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Hi all,
After a used good working order set of splitfire coilpacks for r32 gtr, in Melbourne preferably please
Thanks!
All sorted! -
Hi all,
After a used good working order set of splitfire coilpacks for r32 gtr, in Melbourne preferably please
Thanks!
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Ok cool, will definitely have a closer look around that area if it’s a common issue.
It does make a slight creak ever so often
Cheers -
Thanks for the response
Haven’t really looked into that yet, am I looking for anything specific? Or just anything broken, loose or any play? -
Hey everyone,
Just got this issue with my clutch pedal going hard sometimes.
I’ve replaced the master cylinder, booster, one way valve, Slave cylinder and clutch line. The clutch line is also connected directly from the master to the slave. After bleeding it I still experience the pedal goes hard sometimes.
Although at times if I rest my foot on the pedal giving it a little pressure before pressing all the way it will clutch in normally. Also have had a look to make sure all the hoses were ok which they are
Really stumped as to what it could be. All the parts I’ve replaced were brought brand new
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks in advance
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Are you kidding? If you're pushing that wheel from 6 & 12 and there is as much movement as I can see, then the whole bloody wheel looks like it's just about ready to fall off. If it were me, I wouldn't drive it. At the very least you need to get someone else to push the wheel while you put your head under it and listen. Use a piece of dowel or similar as a stethoscope. But I'm damn sure you should be able to see what's f**ked from about 50 feet away!
Sorry I think the placement of the phone makes it look like 12 and 6 o clock movement but the movement is more from the left and right (turning) wheel movement. I was using some force so was wriggling the wheel from all directions until the 12 and 6 position created the sound
I was trying to reproduce the clicking sound and didn’t even notice you could see anything lol
But yeah thought someone here might recognise the sound
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Got underneath the car and was able to isolate the sound! I basically held it a 12 and 6 o clock and if I pulled/pushed enough it would make the click. Checked the usual suspension components and made sure none were loose/torn
Hopefully someone one can help me out!
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Usually when a major bush has a major problem, the noises will often occur when you change the direction of the load. If that happen in a vertical direction, then it will click/clunk on bumps. If the problem is in a horizontal direction, then it will click or clunk when changing from forward to reverse, or swinging the wheel through large steering angles. But there's no rules here. You can end up with a lot of different variattions.
Another possible suspect in the front suspension is the upper bearing in the spindle. They sometimes fail noisy.
Thanks, i will check it out and share any updates -
Upper control arms might have buggered bushes - enough to move a little and click.
FWIW, I disagree with Duncan about rose joints on castor rods. I've got some Tein ones in my car. Been in for a few years now, so must have done >30000km on road. They are still fine. That makes them serviceable enough for road use, to my mind anyway. And they work much better than any of the alternatives (for the task they are supposed to do).
Haven’t had a proper look at the upper control arm bushes but they were replaced last year. Would you get constant clicking if it were the bushes? Because the click I get only occurs the first few meters of moving in that direction and sometimes when hard braking
I’ve pretty much driven 30k+ too with these rose jointed castor rods so might be worth having a good look at them anyway -
Just lift the wheel off the ground, put some nice solid stands under it and then move the wheel back and forward. It may require a reasonable (but not crazy) amount of force.
Rose joints wear out quickly on road cars, and instead of moving freely either jam or get loose and rattly. They are really designed for race use and regular replacement. If it is the castor rods you'd be better replacing them with standard arms and adjustable bushes, or adjustable arms with bushes.
Could still be any (every) other joint but they are a good place to start
Ok I’ll give that a try. I’ve jacked it up and rotated the wheel back and forth to try get the sound to come up but only appears when the weight of the car is on it. I haven’t tried moving the wheel forwards and back.
I’ll look to replace the castor arms next as most of the ‘main’ culprit parts have been changed lol
Is there anything else to look out for while the car will be jacked up?
Cheers -
ah - re-reading you say pads and rotors. Sometimes the long pins that hold the retaining clip in place are not secured (knocked in properly) and work loose. Then the retaining clip can make a clicking sound as the rotor moves. Just a thought.
Yeah initially I thought it was rotor/pad related but after changing them both the clicking is still there.
I’ll double check the retaining clips
Thanks
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how old are you castor arms, and are they rose jointed or poly bush? worn rose joints would be a likely source of clicking when changing direction.
Is everything else stock?
Not too sure how old the castor arms are -was on the car when I brought it. Yep they are rose jointed. The clicking only comes on when initially changing direction? I’ll probably check the rose joint next. How would you go about checking it?
Everything else is pretty much stock or standard except the coilovers. And I haven’t done any mods lately too before the sounds appeared -
Hey everyone, hopefully I can get some help on this issue.
Car is a r32 gtr and has recently developed a clicking sound coming from what sounds like the front left hand side. The sound is most evident when going from a stand still forward to reverse and vice versa. Can also hear it slightly when braking hard. It will click a few times upon take off then stop and will only come back when going forward to reverse or vice versa again. The sound sounds like 2 metal parts.
Things that have been replaced are:
-whole left cv shaft
-lower outer ball joint
-pads & rotors
-sway bar link
-switched front coilovers around
-replaced outer tie rod
Could it be caused by the calipers? Inner ball joint? Loose castor arm(I have adjustable castor arms)
Any help would greatly be appreciated as it’s embarrassing and annoying!
Thanks in advance
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Ok cool, thanks for the help!
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Hey everyone,
Sorry to dig up an old tread but I'm in the process of changing my clutch line (R32 gtr). From the master direct to the slave. Just want to know what happens to the connection to that distribution box? (Where it originally went from master to the distribution box). Do you just leave it or put a bolt in there?
Thanks in advance!
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Hi, sorry to dig up an old thread, but did you end up finding the solution?
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Thanks, ill give them a call
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RB26 Gearbox neutral switch
Hey everyone,
Does anyone know where to find the neutral switch that goes into the top of the gearbox? Ive only been able to find the reverse switch on kudosmotorsport but not the neutral one.
Just for reference its the switch on top of the one circled in red
)
Thanks in advance
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Hi everyone,
WTB rear bumper for r32 gtr
Cheers!
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Hi everyone
Just after a attesa pump for an r32 gtr (not sure if the other gtr models are interchangeable?). Located in Melbourne but willing to buy interstate.
Thanks
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Hmm been having a look under my car every night and it doesn't seem to be leaking anymore? Lol will keep having a look every few days though
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Yeah it's got redline lightweight shockproof. Thanks, another option I can look into
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Hi, thanks for your help.
I had a look under the car and can say it's definitely gearbox oil. Yep I'll degrease it and have a look in a couple days to see where it's coming from.
R32 GTR brake master cylinder leak
in Suspension, braking and tyres
Posted
Thanks for all your help! I've since cleaned and put a rag underneath the leak to make sure it doesn't run down onto the paint.
Will take it apart and see what we have!
Cheers