Ogun Dullak
-
Posts
22 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by Ogun Dullak
-
-
compressor wheel dictates that, take off the intake pipe and show us (or me) the compressor wheel.
Generally 6+6 wheels will dose better
-
1
-
-
Ithi k you need to look at a tuba or those other things for inspiration, not like a saxophone cos they use a reed, needs to be noise powered.
Probably another turbo that shoots its air back into the outlet of the actual turbo would do the trick. (only when dose mode is on) That would be sweet I will get a drawing prepared first thing Monday.
Sorry I’ve got no idea what you just said.. haha -
compressor wheel dictates that, take off the intake pipe and show us (or me) the compressor wheel.
Generally 6+6 wheels will dose better
I’ll try getting a photo today, just trying to work out how to route this breather that’s plumbed into the intake if I was to buy a different pipe.. any way I could delete it?
I want to do all of this before taking it to the tuner (going MAP tune)
-
Get rid of the 2.5" section and go 3" or bigger.
Boost level will change it and also running no filter will change the sound.
Going to try and get a 4” pipe, see if that makes it lower pitched [emoji1360] -
Calaisturbo.com
I’ve read almost everything there is to read on there mate, just confused on how to get a beefier dose instead of a high pitched one. -
I’ve got a forward facing plenum.. that may also be why it doesn’t sound very good. I’m going to try and experiment with some different pods and pipes and see if any of them work
-
Fair enough, my old 33 with a GCG highflow dosed sick compared to this one with a hypergear highflow.. would it change the sound if I was to put a 4” pipe instead..?
-
Long pipe. Long enough to poke out through the grille.
Go on. You know you want to.
haha, if that’s what’s going to get rid of this pigeon on steroids than yes please -
Hey guys, how would I be able to change the sound of my flutter? Right now it’s a VERY high pitched sound.. I want it to be a deeper and more ballsy.
Current set up has a 2.5” pipe welded to a 3” pipe, I’m thinking the high pitched noise is because of the 2.5” pipe, if I was to buy a 45 degree silicon and chop the 2.5” bit off the pipe & just run a 3” pipe, would it lower the pitch of the flutter? Thanks in advance [emoji4]
-
Block your blow off valve and the pigeons will be set free..
I’ve done that but it sounds weird, more like a ‘woof woof woof woof’ sound [emoji23] I’m going to get a custom stainless steel intake made now to see if it changes anything -
Hey guys, searched for a while but couldn’t find what I was looking for. Does an AFM reduce the sound of a flutter/dose? Is that the reason why VL owners get huge flutters due to the fact that they have a blow through set up?
My mate has a highflow turbo on his R33 & he’s got the AFM in the cooler piping and a pipe coming off his turbo & a pod and his car doses like a pigeon.. I’ve got the exact same turbo, pipe length etc but I’ve got a AFM in the middle & then the pod and it doesn’t flutter as good. So, do AFM’s interrupt the sound?
-
Alright guys, so I bought another R33 but this time with a FFP. Anyways, I want to relocate the AFM/MAF to the cooler piping after the throttle body, near the intercooler. The reason for this is so that I can run a custom alloy intake (with breather plumbed into it). Would relocating the AFM/MAF require a complete retune? The car has been tuned before to suit the mods. I want to speak to someone who has done this and not theories you’ve read off the Internet, thanks in advance
-
Compression ratio should be fine. Plenty of motors now with 10:1 - 10.5:1, you wont be able to run as much boost, though as you say you only want a little more power. It will still make an easy and safe 200rwkw anyway.
You will need
- R33 gtst brakes calipers + rotors
- Clutch? possibly
- LSD if yours doesn't have one.
- DET injectors
- DET ecu
- DET AFM
- Stock turbo to start with
- water and oil feed lines
- Dump pipe and exhaust
- FMIC
- Fuel pump
Much much much much easier just to sell and buy a GTS-t, stock r33s are worth not much at all these days. You can even find ones with 250rwkw for much cheaper than it would cost to mod yourself. I have to say this even though you don't want to hear it (I understand you love your car) because it is common sense, and I have no emotional attachment to your car or $1000 service/maintenance cost you just paid. So we can give unbiased advice.
A turbo the size you posted needs a lot of supporting mods.
Anyway, good luck and stay the hell away from that ebay turbo.
Thank you very much for all that information man, I really appreciate it! Looks like selling and buying a turboed one is going to be much easier! Cheers
-
Oils. Don't forget oils!
+$1000
Can you read? I said oils/filters/scratches/paint work/dents and mods...
Or do you just enjoy being a dickhead throughout the day on the internet?
-
Rough figures?
Engine 1.5k
Gearbox 1k
Diff 300
Brakes 300
Hubs 300
Other stuff, eg intercooler fuel pump extra bits involved that everyone forgets 500-1000
So 4-4.5k.
Selling your gts and buying a gtst will not cost you that much
Thanks for that man! Seems like selling and buying a gtst is the best way to go about it, cheers!
-
How much would I be looking at roughly to do an engine swap? + upgrading brakes etc?
Thanks to all those who actually replied maturely by the way! I've only just bought this car so I would love to build it up and get to learn things along the way.
& no I shouldn't have just bought a project car than because I just returned to Australia after living in Europe for a couple of years.
In the mean time instead of a turbo, is there really any other way to give the car a bit more power? The car has a K&N pod filter, heavy duty clutch, 3.5inch catback exhaust (which is way too loud) + a lot more I can't remember atm!
-
Hi guys, first of all I'd like to start of by saying that I 100% do NOT want to sell my car and 'just buy a gts-t'.
At the time, due to P plate laws I couldn't buy a gts-t so I bought a R33 GTS - 1993 - Series 1.
I've already spent about $1000 doing oil changes, filters, spark plugs and just cleaning the car up, this includes little dings and scratches plus interior and exterior mods etc.
So, my question is, is it really THAT pricey to do a de+t conversion? I've read forums which said they are and others say they're not. I'm not looking to get CRAZY power, just something a little more than what I have.
What parts will I need and roughly how much would it cost for parts + labour?
ALSO I've seen people link the eBay turbo kits which are just bolt on I believe... Sounds hard to believe but surely you can't just bolt on a turbo for $300 without something else blowing up, right?
Any help and opinions would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance!
-
Hi guys, first of all I'd like to start of by saying that I 100% do NOT want to sell my car and 'just buy a gts-t'.
At the time, due to P plate laws I couldn't buy a gts-t so I bought a R33 GTS - 1993 - Series 1.
I've already spent about $1000 doing oil changes, filters, spark plugs and just cleaning the car up, this includes little dings and scratches plus interior and exterior mods etc.
So, my question is, is it really THAT pricey to do a de+t conversion? I've read forums which said they are and others say they're not. I'm not looking to get CRAZY power, just something a little more than what I have.
What parts will I need and roughly how much would it cost for parts + labour?
ALSO I've seen people link the eBay turbo kits which are just bolt on I believe... Sounds hard to believe but surely you can't just bolt on a turbo for $300 without something else blowing up, right?
Any help and opinions would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance!
-
Here I have a set of rear coil overs that we're taken off my Skyline R33 GTS, I'm looking to sell them but have no idea what they're worth, can someone please help me out? (No I didn't buy them, they came in the boot of my car when I bought it)
-
Hi guys, I recently bought a Skyline R33 S1.. One problem with it is that the speedometer doesn't work, all the other gauges like the Revs counter, petrol etc work except for the actual speedometer. The previous owner has told me that when the speedometer was working, it read DOUBLE the speed he was doing, so when he was travelling at 40km/h, the speedo will be at 80km/h. Anyways, he also gave me a Jaycar speedo corrector kit which i believe when he tried wiring it up, accidentally did something to make the speedo stop working. Anyways, I've been quoted $380 from a speedo 'expert' in Maryong. Anyone have any ideas on what I should do or how to fix the problem because I simply don't think it should be costing that much for what seems like a simple fix..?
-
Thanks for the info and help guys! Looks like I'll be spending a couple of hundred dollars to fix this problem! Took it down to an auto electrician in Maryong and got quoted $380..
-
Im guessing it'd have an after market one because the KM/s count is only at 60,000...
-
Hey, I recently bought a Skyline R33 S1, one problem. The speedo reads DOUBLE my actual speed, so when I'm travelling at 40km/h, it shows 80km/h on the speedometer. I've got a Jaycar speedo corrector kit but don't know how to install it, any help?
DOSE PIPE / FLUTTER
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
I’m going to try a 4” aluminium 45 degree pipe & see how that goes [emoji4] (will be getting rid of the AFM & running a MAP tune)