KLA33E
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Posts posted by KLA33E
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On 06/05/2021 at 12:11 PM, SteveL said:
As above, could be fuel. Have a sniff of the plugs - oil and fuel have distinctive smells. If the engine was burning oil I'd expect the plug tip to be black and oily, not largely 'clean' oil. Also the car would be blowing white smoke at idle with that amount of oil.
I have seen something like this once before on an RB that had leaking rocker cover gaskets. Oil was 'pooling' in the spark plug wells and when the plugs were removed the oil was making its way onto the threads and the end of the plugs.
Yes, it’s strange that it’s on all the cylinders.
threads are all clean, it’s just around half of the tips on all the plugs..Wideband is reading 12.3 at idle when cold, then when warmed up it sits between 14.5-14.7
i’ve also noticed that since fitting my power fc the fuel pump isn’t priming for as long as it used to, but haven’t given it to much thought.
I can mention to that the fuel pump is upgraded to a tomei unit. -
Hello fellow Skyline owners!
I’ve had my car in the garage for 6 months now, during winter time.
Before I put it off I had the car remapped.During the mapping session the car suffered from intermittent missfires on higher rpm.
Then when I was done and started the car to drive home the car only ran on 5 cylinders. We did some fault searching, narrowed it down to cylinder 3.Then all of sudden after we swaped coilpack 3 & 1 around, it worked again.
The coilpacks used at the time were Splitfires (5 years old).One of the things I wanted to do was to upgrade the ignition system, so I did.
I Installed VR38 smart coils. Also swapped out the sparkplugs (ngk bcp7res) gapped at 0.7mm.This is when I found out that all of my old sparkplugs were very black and a bit wet.
I originally thought this was a tuning or fuel realated issue since it was affecting all the of the cylinders.This week I started her up.
after about 40 minutes of total running (idle) I removed to check my new plugs..All the sparkplugs have what looks like fresh engine oil on them. The threads are clean, just on the base and half around the center electrode, just as the previous ones too had.
Earlier sparkplugs i’ve had replaced has never looked like this and I find it odd that it’s like this on all the plugs.
Do you guys have any ideas what would cause all the cylinders to have oil in them all of sudden? 🤔
Will upload a picture so you can see too.
The car is a R33 RB25DET
Car has uprated turbo,injectors,maf,ebc.. Running a apexi power fc.
Unopend engine. Done about 90000km
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So, i've had this odd noise coming from my podfilter, as in my opinion sounds like a grinding metallic noise. This isn't something new though, it has been going on since 2016. It isn't that apparent irl but you can definetely hear it on idle when standing near the engine xD.
I recorded a video with my phone which managed to capture the noise really well (since it's quite high pitch). I will link a clip with the noise below.
Any wise thoughts on what it could be?
cheers!
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On 9/25/2018 at 12:30 AM, GTSBoy said:
Just try it. It can't get any worse than it is now!
I did today! and I can say it works like a charm! :)
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Hi!
Has anyone tried replacing the hicas computer between a r33 gtr and r33 gtst before and knows if this works?
Gtst art: 2850519U10
Gtr art: 2850524U10The reason for this is that my powersteering goes heavy from time to time, and recently stoped working fully. I did try to fix my old unit without succes. (gtst)
I now have a second hand hicasbox from a R33 gtr. The units look exactly the same on the outside with identical pin connections,
but Inside it looks alot diffirent!
For example, In the gtst box there are 2 circuit boards, in the gtr it's only 1 etc..?
I'm just want to retain the powersteering function! as my Hicas steering is removed.
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Hello.
I have a strange noise that's coming from my R33. It can be heard well when the car is idling. you don't hear it when reving or when your inside the car, only when you stand outside by the engine compartment.
It sounds to me like a metallic grinding noise, coming from the podfilter.
This didn't occur recently though I've driven the car for 8 months since this started. It haven't gotten worse or better, what could it be?
I will post video of the sound so you guys can hear it.
2nd video is me recording just next to the podfilter.
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Okay, it's been a while but i managed to fix the problem.
It was indeed the metal piece in the downpipe that got the arm to get stuck open. Took the downpipe off and grinded a bit away and now the car goes much better than before. Feels like the spool is quicker too!
Cheers guys.
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3 hours ago, Birds said:
My next question was going to be...do you have a split type dump pipe? These are notorious for fouling wastegate flaps. I had the issue of mine being stuck shut with one, so it was boosting to infinity...had to grind away a lot of the dump pipe to clear it properly but it never fully resolved the issue until I had a custom bell mouth made up.
Heat is often the cause of dynamic problems (issues that seem sporadic or occur after a while of driving etc.). Good chance that once things heat up, the diaphragm in the actuator could be playing up, or the metal of the wastegate/pipe expands and fouls on the dump pipe. Heat will also cause any pipe/hose leaks to get worse or better.
Pull the actuator arm off the wastegate flap (little circlip can be popped off with a screwdriver). Then you can move the flap by hand. See if it catches or feels sticky. If not, you could replace your actuator to rule that out - can usually pick up second hand for $20 or so.
One thing to be careful of when a turbo isn't making boost, is revving the engine - if the wastegate is shut and it turns out to be an intercooler hose / intake leak you can overspin the turbo without realising it / it won't show up on boost gauge.
Thank you for the answer!
Yes I've got a split dump pipe with a little piece of metal to separate the exhaust gases. So it's definetely a possibility
I drove the car earlier. It was fine to begin with, since I got the arm free. Then when I accelerated with a bit off boost on to the highway it got stuck again.?
So next up I will do what you said, separate the actuator arm from the flapper, and then I should be able to figure out where the problem lies..
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29 minutes ago, Birds said:
Is this manual or auto?
Vac line or intercooler piping/hose loose IMO...also inspect turbo actuator to see if it's not getting stuck open. If you're careful you can connect an air compressor to the actuator and /lightly/ introduce air to it - should open the flap.
The car is Manual.
And yes the actuator was stuck open but managed to pull on it a little so it closed itself . It moves like it should now.
Seems to get stuck when I give it some.
I was thinking if the flap on the wastegate maybe got stuck on something in my downpipe, but never happend before so I don't know.
I will test drive today, see how it goes.
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I discovered yesterday that my actuator arm was stuck open, I pulled it a little and it came lose.
It seems to function to some extent, because if I pull it now the arm moves as it should.
Maybe time to go aftermatket? I will check if the WG port is fouling on something.
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R33 Gtst No boost.
Hello!
Just got my R33 passed inspection this week and finally got her out on the road!
Today I was washing the car, on my way home I went full throttle for a short moment and backed off at 5200rpm, then the car literally had no boost after this pull, maybe like 2psi at max. I stopped for a brief period with the car still running, then I drove off and it boosted like normal again!?
I got home left some things and went for a drive again.
I eventually came to a straightaway and wanted to see how the car would behave so I hit full throttle and it boosted fine, I let off at aprox 6500rpm. Then SAME THING AGAIN! no boost and this time it didn't come back. So I drove home with no boost.
The car is fairly stock, it got a bigger exhaust, pod, Fmic, Splitfires coils, and Electronic EBC (Greddy profec B II). I was driving with the Boost controller of. It usually boost between 7-9psi, so not alot.
The wierd thing is that the car idles fine, sits at 800rpm and sounds normal. If it were to be a big boost leak the car would run like crap and very rich, right?
my Wideband Readings showed 11.2-10.9 at WOT Before this occured.
You Aussies seem to have good knowledge in these cars. Have any clue what this might be?
Cheers!
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It probably is like you say that it allows a bit of oil to pass at all times.
Regarding which port is flow and which is return I'm swaying towards the left port in the Picture, you can see the spring on the right hand side so the piston should move that way no?
My cooler core is mounted with the connections to the leftside. I want the oil to flow through to the bottom of the cooler first then continue to rise upwards rather than the other way around for improved cooling im thinking...
Maybe it's worth mentioning I don't use a relocation kit, just 2 hoses from the sandwhich directly to the oil cooler.
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Grex sandwichplate flow direction?
Hi! I'm in the progress of installing an oil cooler in my R33. It's a Grex/Greddy oil cooler kit which includes everything you need for Installing, all good. The question is I'm not sure which port on the thermostat that is inlet an which is outlet? (look at picture)
BTW will the Grex thermostat allow any oil through the oil cooler when the Engine is still cold? or do I have to wait until it opens to be able to top up the oil level?
Thanks in advance!
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Coolant leak at back of engine RB25DET
Hi! Today I discovered a little puddle of coolant under the car when I looked underneth it. I currently have the car jacked up for the winter.
Never noticed this leak until now, guess the coolant never made it down to the floor when I used to drive it and it managed to dry up before. Now the car has been standing for about 2 months so now it is visible. The coolant level is fine though so not a huge leak.
I tried to follow the leak from the side of the gearbox and upwards. I belive it has dripped down from the coolant feed from the turbo by the looks of it behind the engine.
Here are some pics I took, what do you guys belive? Will it be as "easy" as just replacing the nasty looking hose clamp? ?
The car is a 94 r33 gtst btw.
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9 minutes ago, 89CAL said:
Here's the part diagram out of FAST, it shows what I'm talking about. It has a plug in it for the horn and the bit that spins with the boss kit
Thank you!
Yes it must be a previous owner, because I definitely dosen't have that part! So can I just buy a new steering angle sensor and replace it? What suprises me though is that my steering has been fine for the most part. My hicas bulb has also been removed so can't see if the light stays on or not.
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10 hours ago, KLA33E said:
This is were im at currently. Is it not suposed to have a connection somewhere? I have my hornbutton on the dash.
But should the clock spring even look like that on an r33?
There is nothing to it, How will the hicas know my steering input?
I may ad that my steering goes randomly Heavy sometimes, even before i changed my steering Wheel. When this happens if I turn the car off and on again usually the steering goes light again.
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This is were im at currently. Is it not suposed to have a connection somewhere for the horn? Guess it dosen't matter though because I have my hornbutton on the dash.
Also haven't seen anyone changed their non airbag skyline r33 steering wheel so can't really tell if somethings missing?
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It might be a washer, but in other hkb boss kits it's not included. This ring only seems to come with the non airbag boss kit?
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HKB boss kit (what is this part?)
Hi! I Just recieved my new Personal Neo Grinta steering wheel today and a HKB Hicas sports III non airbag hub (ON-177) to my Skyline r33 gtst series1. I think I have figured out were everything goes except for one thing. Can someone here tell me what this part is and where it goes? im referring to the small silver ring to the right in the picture. The bigger one to the left I believe is a horn adapter? I have googled for hours but didn't find anything about this smaller ring.
So If anyone here have a indentical Boss kit or can tell me what it is i'll be happy.
Thanks.
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(Update) We loosened everything up, starting with the easy stuff, servo, ac, and so. Noise was still there so we removed the timing belt. Then discovered that the tensioner pulley had residues of rubber on it from the belt probably? So the tensioner pulley was taken off and inspected for damage but seemed fine. Everything was removed and installed back together.
So my guess is the belt was put on a little bit too tight. The tension was doubled checked. Anyway the car is much quieter now, but I can still hear a small belt noise on idle but it goes away when the car warms up and introduces another sound (when warm) when you rev the car and it drops off at 1000rpm.
Overall I reckon the car is quieter now than before but not perfect. Guess i'll just have to drive it for a while and see if it goes away and if not, I may replace it with an Oem Nissan belt.
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Okey! I was just in Contact with the shop. Im taking her back to them for inspection. Will post here how it goes.
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Hello!
I just recently had my Timing belt done and all the accesories, tensioners/pulleys etc. The shop who did the job is very reputable and have done many jobs like this before.
So when I got my car back I didn't notice anything, the car sounded fine. Drove it home, (3 hour journey) and just as im arriving when I do a pull from 1st gear in the parking space I hear a whinning noise from the engine? Was pretty tired so decided to look it up the next day. I read through some forum posts with people who experienced similar problems. That their belt would make squeaky noises, when warmed up mostly and around idle. In my case this is what i've discovered so far: Noise is there both when the engine is cold and warmed up and only seems to be apparent from 1000--1500rpm. Anyone have any ideas what this noise can be?!? More frustrating than anything!
The timing belt kit installed is a Blueprint oem replacement.
Video how it sounds: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OEsFwTc3Rp0 -
True that original bov bleeds off boost.
There's a hole in it.
Ok, Thanks! I noticed that small hole when I took it of but didn't know what it's purpose was.
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Did u set the plug gap to 0.8???, at 14 psi the spark would be struggling at bigger gaps. But prob not so much at 10psi.
Also wondering if your BOV is partially stuck open?
Hello! Yes the plug gap is actually 0.7mm, they regap them from factory (also checked this). As for the BOV I think that might be the case actually. Sometimes I think I can hear it bleed off when still on throttle.
I have Ordered a new Turbosmart Plumb back BOV. (BPV) to see if it will help.
Btw i've heard that the original Nissan one does bleed off a little at throttle to recive a more linear powerband. Do you know if thats true?
There is nothing to it, How will the hicas know my steering input?
Oil fouled sparkplugs
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
No it rarely smokes, only when I cold start it in colder/moisty weather.
the turbo is a HKS GT-RS unit which I replaced 2years I also replaced the Pcv-valve with a new one. Intakepiping is clean, looked in my catch can the other day. Not a visible drop of oil.
Im starting to lean towards fuel, it just looked very much like oil in my opinion.
I don’t know if partly combusted petrol can get a orange/yellow look to it?