benriches
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Posts posted by benriches
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LHD G35 Battery Cover Install [M35]
1. Remove the rubber that runs along brake cyl compartment
Spoiler
2. You'll need to trim off a strip of about 5mm from the top of the brake cyl compartment. I forgot to take a photo but we also sanded the edge after cutting, so there was no sharp bits.
Spoiler3. Cut this little chode off from under the wiper too
Spoiler4. You'll need to make at least one bracket to support the cover, as only one of the holes line up with the car to support it. Make more along the back if you're keen
Spoiler5. Mock up the cover and mark out where the bracket will fit, then drill it out.
Spoiler6. Test fit everything
Spoiler7. Add a touch of paint to make sure the metal you've cut on the body doesn't rust. We just used touch up paint in a can that we sprayed into the lid and dabbed on with a paint brush.
Spoiler8. Dun
Spoiler
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Well, it's been good of late.
ECO mode cuts throttle a fair bit which is handy, have saved a fair few kms around town.
I still leave it in high throttle for spirited driving which I think makes for better driving overall, but I guess you guys will just have to try it and decide for yourselves whether it's worth it or not.
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M35 Condenser Replacement
My condenser has a massive hole in it. How simple is it to replace? I've obtained a V35 condenser (hope it's the same, will let you guys know)
Looks like a pain in the ass - Not sure if I need to pull the radiator out and remove it backwards or what
Anyone able to point me in the right direction?
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1 hour ago, West said:
All this is also included in the instruction manual?
Not exactly, the instructions are generic and just shows you how everything fits together. Its straightforward though - can't really mess it up
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Can you PM me a postage cost to VIC 3218
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Here's everything I received.
Switch - APEXI logo illuminates respective to the throttle mode. It's not an obnoxious light, pretty dull.
Mounting surface
Cable can be routed either below the switch, or behind it for a seamless install on the dash
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Initial impression: Great build quality, switch is discrete and is the same size if not slightly smaller than the blanking plates on the right hand side of the steering column. You could mount it to a blanking plate with double sided tape as a temp solution if you wished, or remove the blanking plate entirely and install it in-place. Comes with an English, and Japanese manual.
Install: Install was easy. It comes with a loom to hook into the reverse lights which changes the resistance curve when you engage reverse, but I didn't fit this. Just pulled the under steering column panel down (held in with a few clips) and disconnected the throttle position loom, plugged the APEXI unit in between the car and the pedal and it was good to go. I actually fitted it with no tools, in the dark.
Learning process: English manual is easy to understand - Turn ignition on and press "down" on the switch to begin the learning process. Depress pedal to floor, then press the "up" switch to set full throttle.
Actual driving: After I let the car warm up, I went straight to "high throttle" mode. It's fast. Throttle feels extremely responsive, especially coming out of corners. Almost like a proper cable, the car reacts immediately to any slight change in throttle position. I engaged "eco" mode on the last few K's of my drive home, it's pretty good. Especially around town - Depressing the pedal entirely still engages full throttle, but resistance curve makes the car extremely smooth and not "jolty". I'm sure it will save fuel in the long run for daily driving.
All in all, worth it for $215 delivered. I haven't played with the other modes yet, or had a proper spirited drive - But the difference is immediately noticeable.
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I've ordered it! Will report back when it arrives from Japan
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Apexi Smart Accel Controller?
Found this bad boy online http://www.apexi-usa.com/store/smart-accel-controller.html
Can't seem to find anyone who's put one in a Stagea. Reviews on other forums have been nothing but extreme praise in how it changes throttle response and acceleration, saying "it feels like a whole new car".Also for $200 delivered with an M35 Stagea-specific loom adapter, it seems like a good upgrade. The fact I can't find any info on them here is just making me a bit skeptical.
Anyone have any experience with this, or other throttle controllers in general?
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Not a fan of the Fuga front tbh. But yeah everyone's trying to find the C34/R34 conversion for this gen haha
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Worlds worst photoshop also
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wow, no idea how you found that! thanks
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Same generation vehicles, I think it would look pretty sick - better than an R35 front. Can't find any pictures online though
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Haha! I did search, couldn't find anything so I posted. Perhaps I was using the wrong keywords.
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Have you guys seen this?!
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Messaged! You're a legend Scotty
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Quoted $920.10 Genuine from Nissan for a new driverside axle lol
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I have seen plenty of stub axles rusted to the hub spline, but a bit of WD40 usually frees them up. Have you tried heat?
I should be able to help you out if you need something Ben.
Hmmm, it's freed but fortunately but now I need a front driverside axle, CV boots are gone and it's making a thudding sound when I drive. Have you got anything available? I ordered a G35X axle from eBay, but it turned out to be for the revision model G35X, so it isn't the same and I really do need one soon for RWC.
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unfair. thanks anyways.
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Still for sale?
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Front axles are seized inside hubs. WTB New or working Used items.
Located Geelong/Melbourne
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No, the balljoint in the compression rod is not replaceable.
Just buy the correct AWD part; you can source a G35X (AWD) component out of the US for the same price as the 350Z arm anyway
RWD part in AUS is $80 delivered - AWD part from US is at least $350 delivered.
Wouldn't happen to know where I could find one for cheaper in the US or even in AUS?
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Whole new arm? Why not just press the old ball joints out replace them?
I was told the balljoint cannot be replaced on these - I didn't know that was possible!
unfair. thanks anyways.
M35 Condenser Replacement
in Wagoneers
Posted
Update: V35 condenser works
Was also able to push radiator back enough to slip condenser out without removing it.
Had to remove clutch fan and shroud to get enough clearance.