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ZILLAR5

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Posts posted by ZILLAR5

  1. ok this is really driving me nuts

    i'll be driving along at 100km and all of a sudden it will go in and out of overdrive, in - 2650rpm .. out- 2900rpm usually when its warm. Other times i'll be driving normally and it will change down from 4th - 3rd without touching the accelerator?

    i've searched the forum some say it could be the alarm causing it, i did get an alarm installed around the time it started?

    another says to clean the plugs/sockets near the wiper bottle under the bonnet, trying this now.

    Could the TPS be out of whack? i've had it off to clean, have i put it back in the right position?

    Thanks in advance

  2. Gday,

    I had this model amp for 12 months and it is simply awesome! just recently mu house was broken into and all my gear was stolen (incl the amp) so i just got another PM-7200 as an insurance replacement (so its brand spankin and unopened!) and i no longer need it because I also got a replacment surround amp (upgraded model) which more than does the job.

    http://www.qualifi.com.au/index.jsp?page=1105

    RRP: $1199

    High power output delivers 2 x 95 Watts with option of Class A operation for a smoother, warmer sound. Single push-pull amplifier, symmetrical circuit with independent heatsinks, anti-resonant metal front panel, customised components and HDAM on voltage gain amp preserve music’s dynamic structure and ensure accurate tone and imaging. Linear Drive Power Supply (LDPS) provides unlimited reserves of power to cope with sudden musical surges driving even the most difficult loudspeakers •HDAM Output and 'Class A' •Tape Monitor/CD-R Connections •2 x 95/155 W RMS (8/4 Ohms) •5 Source Inputs

    For Sale - $1000 save yourself $200 of the new price.

  3. This is the 10 minute no cost boost to 0.5 bar rerouting of the vacuum hoses.  Disconnect the two vaccum hoses from the solenoid.  Then connect the boost feed (from the cross over pipe on the left of the picture) to a the standard T piece. Connect one side of the T piece  directly to the wastegate actuator (on the right of the picture).  The remaing connection on the T piece goes back into the inlet via the BOV return pipe (on the standard fitting).  Make sure to put the the standard brass restrictor in that vacuum hose to bypass the desired amount back into the turbo inlet. The standard bypass hole of 1.25 mm bypasses enough air flow for 0.5 bar.

    SolenoidBypassSmall.jpg

    :)

    wow what a read.

    i've got a Q.

    Is the resistrictor meant to stay where it is (from the intercooler) or go in another vacumm hose ?

    cheers :)

  4. No left but i can get them for $140 each as long as i have 5 orders .

    go to post 17 in this thread for the dimentions and on earlier post you will find a pic .

    Hi .. i'm keen on a battery and i'm in Melbourne.

  5. yep, but these are not the standard size.

    If they were standard length and open ended they would be even lighter.

    Group buy is still on.

    Just waiting on the manufacturer to finish the current batch before I put my order in.

    Ed

    Hey Ed i know you only wanted 5 for the buy, but i'm keen on a blue set if poss ? I'm in Melb

  6. Hey SK .. just like to say.. Nice one Brova ! a real pleasure following your threads !

    Question RE the IEB Controller .. the instructions say "dont get the two PIC Microcontrollers (IC1 & IC2) mixed up" i cant tell the diff between the two ?? they have the same code on them ??

    plus i built the kit based on the instructions given (B&W) and realised afterwards that the same intructions are in color in the Project Book !!!!!

    thanks

    :)

  7. Hi guys...work as a dentist in berwick. Seen a few skylines around the area, anyone from here???

    ...and no, i don't do cheap backyard jobs (sorry)!

    well i'm from Narre Nth !

    and i'm the Team Leader / Electronics Technician @ Nintendo.

  8. ............................................SAFC................................

    ...BTW, had the exact problem you have and racked my brain thinking it's the plugs gap, coils, air flow meter etc. But no it was the standard ECU running rich as when boosted. So an SAFC sounds good. No hesitation just all power right through. Oh and a decent 29 rwkw gain.

    I'm keen to hear Sydney Kids comments on the Jaycar Fuel Adjuster hes just installed ..

    On the coil packs .. i just couldn't get my head around the fact that i taped the coils, and it fixed the problem for one day !! ducked up !

    So do you still have factory Coil Packs then ?

    BTW Thanks for your input :rofl:

  9. my skyline has developed a missfire/hesitation from 4-5500rpm ..

    mods are: 3inch, 10psi, Pod + CAI

    i've done my research with this problem i.e spark plugs, running NGK coppers BKR6e 0.8 gap, which i replaced monday - problem still exists.

    tried backing off boost to 8psi, taped Coil Packs - problem gone for a day even put boost back to 10psi - no problem. Decided to araldite them, put them back in and problem is back !! Even did night test with cover off - couldn't see sparks.

    before i go out and buy splitfires, should i need to gap the plugs down to 0.7 ? but then i've read less spark = less power.

    on the other hand .. could it be missfiring due to rich mixtures in which case an SAFC would solve the problem ?

    i'd appreciate anyone comments.

    Tanks :)

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