R33 Jared
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Posts posted by R33 Jared
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copped up to 25psi and a lot of knock along the way...copped a fair bit of limiter abuse...also ran for a week with a dud fuel reg and was leaning out to 15:1 under full load...pistons had very slight det damage but bottom end is otherwise perfect and will probably be used again when i eventually sell it.
Best read of the thread haha
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Try a new set of either factory or Splitfire coilpacks.
Thanks for suggestion, I was already thinking of heading down this path but wanted some reinforcement before I paid the $700 bucks (again). On my S2 motor I had Splitires but they don't mate with my S1 (as everyone knows).
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Will run a pressure test in the morning. It always seemed to run rich, but it one day seemed really bad. Closing the gap will what? Help combustion even when there is an incopious amount of fuel spraying in? If this solves the issue is it unsafe to leave it at 0.6?Boost leak. Do a pressure test to find it.
Close the gap on the plugs down to 0.6
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Ayo,
Full acceleration, anywhere over 3.5k revs causes my afr to completely overfuel itself. (I have searched many other threads but I feel mine is slightly different). Applying only 75% throttle however it accelerates great and smooth. What are some culprits I can address to try and smooth out this AFR under full load? I have brought my RB25 back to absolutely 100% stock everything, no aftermarket BOV, stock SMIC, stock turbo setup, stock Airbox, everything is stock. Still running a 2.5" exhaust as my partner and I enjoy communicating whilst driving.
I have just purchased:
- a new ignition loom (wiringspecialties)
- NGK Copper BPR6 1.1mm gap plugs
Other than those two obvious ones, the possibilities then open up a whole new branch of things. Fuel Pressure? Coilpacks? Leaking BOV? Would a leaking BOV be capable of throwing off an AFR that much!? Please, I'm sure a lot have been through this. I'm able to upload a video if that may help.
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I have an R33 GTS-t 1993 model and I really like the R34 wheel.
Please, if I don't respond immediately PM me.
If you have an R34 wheel available I will pay postage if not nearby.
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Sorry for bringing up an old thread. I recently did this conversion; well, sort of, my engine was originally turbo so had less to worry about.
Off the top of my head: (most are obvious)
- Intake manifold (this isn't fun)
> ensure turbo injectors and fuel rail too
- spark plugs from 1.1 to 0.8 gap
- exhaust manifold
- Dump pipe
- Down pipe (may require modification if using stock NA exhaust, mine required cutting and rotating)
- turbo (derrrrr)
- ECU can be S1, S2, doesn't make a difference
- J pipe from throttle to intercooler piping
- find yourself a new BOV, mine leaked
- turbo intake pipe to Airbox (MAF suiting ECU)
- intercooler piping A & B that mount to SMIC
> if you're doing SMIC (R34 suits also)
> will require SMIC mount too (R32 won't fit)
- check brake booster hose from intake hasn't been tampered with as it will affect braking
- 2m of vaccuum lines will be required, don't use the old shit you have
- coolant hose that runs from back, drivers side of motor, around and onto turbo (feed)
> contact me if you want pics
- oil return turbo (R34 suits also)
- oil feed turbo (R34 suits also)
- boost solenoid with hosing that connects to wastegate and then intercooler piping
- recommend AFR ratio gauge, aftermarket boost gauge (standard is in mmHg and maxes out 15ish psi so if you're free boosting at first, you will easily blow past that) [assuming your cluster even has a boost gauge]
- as for compression ratios, mine was originally a turbo motor so I was in no worry of anything like that
- your clutch if rated to 200hp (NA) won't like the extra 80kw
- your running gear in general probably won't want too much abuse if NA is made any weaker (I personally don't know)
Have fun, best modifcation I've ever done. Only costed around $1500 to $2000 to do it properly with genuine and quality gear. If you're a pizza boy you could do it way cheaper if you need to.
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When it idles is there any wine? As if a supercharger type sound? Normally it can only be heard when warm. If so our 26/30's timing belt was simply too tight, replaced cam gears and timing belt and backed it off a notch; no worries.
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Should be something like this, that plug looks the same so I guess your missing the factory sensor?
Cheers mate, I grabbed one off a local R33 being parted out. All sorted now, I've owned the car for 2 years (1 month whilst turbo) and to see the gauge move for the first time was exhilarating.. Ha
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Hi,
After a few weeks of driving around clueless to how my stock boost gauge worked, I just noticed I'm an idiot.
The outlet from the Intake to the boost gauge is blowing out into the atmosphere... Great. Can someone please send me photos of their engine bay at this region? Like a photo of the hose, how it travels, and what it connects to? There's a plug just chilling over near the brake booster so does that have anything to do with it? Thanks.
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A few years back when I was a red P Plater I switched all the hoses to blue silicon ones. I had almost switched all the silicon hoses back to the genuine black ones except the hose from the brake booster to the intake. I went out into my parts bin, found the original hose (noticed it has a built in valve that the aftermarket ones didn't) and now it's working perfectly. Full boost and brakes! Thanks for the help though, would've had no clue otherwise. Summary is NA pressure doesnt require the valve, turbo does.No need for an extra valve, the vacuum hose connection at the booster has the non return valve incorporated.
Are you sure the booster was OK prior to the transplant?
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I have bolted off the hoses so there is no leak. There is no valve what so ever between manifold and brake booster inlet. Will go search around for one, thanks guys.basically all working properly the booster should never see boost as stated above there is ment to be a one way valve in the line, if the booster actually sees boost the brakes wont work well at all. check the one way valve to ensure it works, and also make sure the booster isnt stuffed and leaking,
as above where is the screaming noise actually comming from and when does it do it, idle, driving, only on boost ?
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I have an R33 GTS-t Series 1. It originally had an aspirated RB25 swapped into it for P Plater laws, 2 years into owning it I then reimplanted a S2 RB25det. All is sweet, only when I disconnect the brake booster to intake manifold hose. If that is connected, it makes a screaming sound, as if the brake booster could only handle atmospheric pressure, not the pressure of a turbo. What are my solutions here so i can still have safe, working brakes and the full 7pounds of boost?
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Do you know if the standard R34 Intercooler piping is the same as R33? I'm talking about the SMIC setup; turbo outlet to Airbox area pipe, Airbox area to intake pipe?All the same it will work fine.
Sorry I know this is quite random but I rarely see R34's getting parted and I'm going to take it for everything I can get ha
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All the same it will work fine.
You're a legend, thanks.
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I have an R33 T28 and just f*d my little Oil return flange. Can the R34 oil return flange fit my R33 one? I found one for cheap with everything I need.
Necessity dimensions:
- 70mm in length
- 2 Bolt holes
- Holes are 53mm apart approx
Can someone see if the R34 matches this description? Would be super helpful, thanks.
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70 for side mount kit
Does this include piping to intake and piping to turbo?
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Series 2 black plug no ignitor
Do you know what the Ignitor specifically does? Just out of curiosity..how can the S2 function without it? Is it internal or something?
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That's definitely a series 2 in the picture above.
WOOOOOOOOOOOOH!!!!!!
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Just to confirm, this is Series2? If so I'm so f*ing happy. That's the loom that matches my Splitfires!!!!
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Hey all,
I have just installed my Splitfires. I went to plug in what I thought to be my Series 2 Ignition loom, but it doesn't mate with my Splitfires. I plugged in what I thought to be my Series 1 Ignition Loom and it mates perfectly with the Splitfires. I have some photos below, can some experts please give a straight answer to:
- WHICH IS SERIES 1 & WHICH IS SERIES 2.
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Title relays the message well. I bought S1 Splitfires, tried to instal them and broke one of the clips from the ignition loom. Now I'm up for a new loom and have to try and sell my splitfires; life regrets. Someone please help.
- Jared
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Unfortunately no, I had owned the car for many months, drove it pretty sensible but possibly the previous owner failed the torque the bolt or did something abnormal regarding installation, as far as I know the harmonic balancer had never been removed though.wow that is unique. got some close up pics of the bolt? know much about the history of the car?
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Engine/Car: R33 GTS, RB25de
Type of failure: Piston to Valve contact
Factors influencing the failure:
Video Link: https://youtu.be/qXXQVrX0kzo
The bolt attaching the Harmonic Balancer to the block attained a stress fracture and cracked.
State of tune of the engine: Stock 100%
Suspension and tyres: BC Coilovers, Bridgestone PlayZ
Oil used and service interval: Nulon 5w40
General Comments: Decided to import a RB25det from the motherland for $2,500 and did the S2 transplant.
R33 GTR gas boot struts
in General Maintenance
Posted
Hopefully this is still correct years later because I’ve just purchased some. Cheers mate