Moistcat
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Posts posted by Moistcat
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So I found the issue...
I feel so freaking stupid after spending all day removing and reinstalling the turbo... but at least I now know how to replace the turbo and the one I have is all good.
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13 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:
Bit off topic but why on earth would you fit a 3in exhaust and restrict it with a 2in cat?
I hadn't gotten around to that, it was actually my plan to fix that within the next couple weeks. That's about it really.
I did also notice that when I stopped getting boost the normal turbo spool noises wasn't happening. Turbo will be out tomorrow so I can check that and the manifold properly.
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56 minutes ago, 89CAL said:
While that is not good, It's on the suction side so will not stop the car boosting - unless the open pipe (if thats how you found it) has sucked something into the turbo and 're-adjusted' the comp wheel
Pull your suction pipe of and check the turbo for damage and shaft play etc. It is usually fairly obvious when you have a turbo issue.
I took that photo after removing that hose, just sitting there as point of reference as to where it came.
The compressor wheel is good, very little shaft play and spins freely. Yet to check the turbine as I'm aware they can end up in the cat.
6 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:Start by pressure testing the inlet system. Its hard to spot some boost leaks.
Sadly, I don't have the equipment to test pressure and compression. The downside about moving out of home
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I did just find this...
Still gonna get someone I know (who knows RBs) to look at the turbo and my spare for just in case it is something turbo related.
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3 hours ago, 89CAL said:
If its speed dependant not rpm or engine load/boost dependant, i would say something is physically making the noise, like a panel gap or something hanging down/out
Your post gives the impression it is only related to speedThat was my first thought, especially as I've installed a CB radio, and cut up the front bar for the intercooler.
Since writing the post I've pretty much lost all boosting ability, not even getting wastegate pressure (5psi) now, got a spare turbo laying around so gonna change the turbo later this arvo.
The exhaust has new OEM gaskets from the turbo through to the front of the cat when I put in the 3inch dump and front pipe and I can't hear any exhaust leaks.
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RB25DET Whistling
Hey all.
I've recently had an a new issue with the RB25det in my Series 1 C34 Stagea. Last week I changed the plugs and coils, which solved the misfire problems I was having. After getting everything back together I'm now getting what I can only describe as a 'kettle whistle' it's noticable from 70km/h and quite loud at 100km/h ( a speed in which the car drives at a lot), and I do get slight hints of it at around 60km/h.
Tonight after double checking the plugs it did feel like it wasn't boosting as much as it normally did.
I put in Irridium sparkplugs, and Splitefire coils.
Have doubled checked all connections and everything appears to have a good connection, and couldn't spot any lines with fatigued lines.
Wanting to know if you guys could suggest anything to check.
Mods to car;
3inch split pipe dump
3 inch ehaust, but retaining the stock 2inch cat
GFB plumb back BOV
K&N Pod filter
Return flow front mount intercooler
Turbo smart bleed valve set to boost the car to about 9-10psi
All these mods have been on the car for at least 3 weeks before the whistling started, and was planning to remove the bleed valve, and put the factory diverter valve back on tomorrow morning before I need the car for work.
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Interested in the Cargo net, and rear exterior carbon look pillar panels.
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Just a stupid question here, I have a S1 and I'm thinking doing the tiptronic conversion to it from the S2. I'm guessing that I may need to change the trans, and will need to change the centre console, gear stick, and the trans ecu. Just more of curious thing of how possible it is.
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WTB S1 Dayz front Bumper/Clear indicators
As title says, I'm looking for a S1 Dayz front bumper for my '96 S1. Only found S2 bars on Import Monster.
I'm also wanting clear front indicators to help complete the look I'm going for on my Stagea, already have clear rear, clear front sides, now I just need the fronts.
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I managed to acquire this for mine, apparently it's from the Dayz edition. But got it for the wank factor mostly
Not sure how rare that part is.
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Installed a front mount, stupid me forget to get a finished pic before the bar went on. My first intercooler.
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My S1, a little rough in the paint but it's mine.
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Had mine at a local exhaust shop yesterday getting new exhaust fitted. One of the guys there thought it was a Suzuki. as they were trying to work out what it was.
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Changed to a slotted grilled, and debadged it. Only a few clips, so easy swap
And resprayed my replacement drivers mirror. Again, only with rattle cans.
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On 9/24/2016 at 7:22 PM, Duncan said:
well if you want to depin it, the rear half of the connector will swing up and around which will unlock the pins. use a sharp pick to lever it up then out of the way. then each pin will have a plastic locking tab, get the pick under it and the pin will slide out of the connector. Reassembly is much easier, just push the pins back in then clip the locking tab back onto the rear of the connector...keeping in mind if any pins is out of order you will probably fry something.
Definitely no need to cut
I did that and it worked!
Success! Now I can go repaint the housing
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On 9/23/2016 at 6:26 AM, DrLui said:
Sneaky Chopped Sticker i see lol
Haha yes
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12 hours ago, D-750 said:
I assume the plug needs to come off? Then pull all the wires through. Is that what you are asking?
Yeah, sorry if my question was poorly worded.
10 hours ago, Duncan said:Just wrap it in tape. Yes you could unpin the plug and pull it through but you can break the fitting doing that, and you might put it back together incorrectly...
I took a photo of the wiring order so that ain't a problem. This happens to be the first mirror I've worked on that has electrics.
7 hours ago, daneprostamobrown said:Yea correct procedure would he take the pins out but that's tough. If you tape the connector and lube it up just gently pull it through
I may have to try that. Worse comes to worse I may just cut the wires and solder them back together afterwards but I'd rather do it the proper way.
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C34 Mirror disassembly
Hey, I got a replacement drivers mirror and since it's the wrong colour I wanna repaint the housing. I've it apart for the most part, but haven't got the wiring out of the rubber. Wanting to know if any here knows how to get completely apart.
Where I'm at.
Where I'm stuck
Any tips on this part would be great.
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Painted my D pillar trims
Before (got the car like this);
After
Done with rattle cans made up with the colour code AR1
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Heyo,
I recently bought a Stagea RS4, my first Nissan and with my googling with research stuff for it I came across this site. Seemed like a good source of info so I figured why not and join.
It is my daily.And my old daily/first car, a 1979 Ford Escort RS200. Which is currently getting a a YB Cosworth engine fitted to it. Learned everything I know about cars from it.
and that's a quick run down of my cars.
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C34 Rear Bar removal.
in Wagoneers
Posted
Hey all.
Needing to know, as there is a local Stagea with a Dayz kit being wrecked. I'm getting the front and rear bar, I've gotten most of the bar removed but there appears to 2-4 bolts still remaining on the sides that I have no idea how to get to.
SO long story short, 2-4 bolts on the rear bar sides, need to know how to get to them.
Cheers