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Jonic

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Posts posted by Jonic

  1. Hey Helpers !    Vehicle : 2003 Nissan Skyline V35, Coupe. / Modified Parts - After Market Exhaust, Stillen Inktake.

    So here's the scenario, I just got home after a 15min drive on a sunny hot day to quickly go and change and I left the car on idling with my air conditioner on low.

    Roughly 5 mins later I came back out and saw the Car was smoking with steam from through the bonnet !

    I then ran quickly and switched off the engine and open the bonnet !

    I suddenly saw my coolant reservoir boiling like its 1000 Degrees and it was leaking a lot around that area

    Next thing I did was I let the car cool down, while looking around I could also hear my car oil boiling as well.

    After about another 5 mins.. MY COOLANT SUDDENLY JUST DRAINED EMPTIED !  (I believed it escaped from my Water Pumps Weep Hole)

    I was not happy with the situation, thinking I have a leak somewhere. So I then went to fill the Radiator and the reservoir with coolant after it cooled down and checked for leaks at the bottom .... but NOTHING !

    Instead it retained its coolant level ! ????

    So I started the car up and warmed it up but still no leak but the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON !

    Next day I decided to take it to the mechanics and went to check the CODES and it came up P1217 - ENG OVER TEMP & P0327 Knock Sensor / Circuit B1

    He also checked my Fan motor 40amp FUSE with the circuit tester and said it was blown which would've caused the car to overheat since it failed to turn the fan on. So he replace the fuse and cleared the engine code afterwards and said it should be all good.
    (40amp Fan fuse located next to the battery)

    Car runs fine so far, I haven't really went too far but so far it's not overheating or anything.

    MY MAIN QUESTION IS.... WAS THIS ALL BECAUSE OF THE 40AMP FAN FUSE !??!?

    Should I even replaced my Water Pump since it leaked through the weep hole or keep driving it since its not leaking right now ?

    My mechanic told me that there was a possible chance the Knock Sensor probably came up was cause my Fan Motor Fuse was blown and failed to cool the radiator down and caused the sensor to go off so it should be okay for now, what are your thoughts ? Should I replace the sensor too ?

     

    THANK YOU HELPERS !

  2. 56 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

    Considering you created three threads for issues, don't expect further help with attitude like that. Remember, the people on here helping you are regulars and will remember you.

    my apologies to everyone, i did everything you guys told me but i still couldn't diagnose it and got frustrated cause it felt like I was the only one getting this problem on a Skyline and nothing was working. So excuse my attitude if you guys got insulted in anyway. Peace

    11126933_952016398144421_473390593_n.jpg

    • Like 1
  3. Went mechanic today, turns out my transmission hose was bent too much and stopped the fluid from going through so he replaced it, and did a clean on the idler valve. Car has been running beautifully, no stall or any random vibration, that's probably why the A/T fault was on the OBD2 scanner. Brilliant.

    • Like 2
  4. Car runs fine now and I didn't do anything really, just reset the code and I can finally drive it pass 2000rpm. Problem now is when I'm driving, at a red light my idle drops and sometimes the car dies, but starts right back up no problem. Any clues because my mechanics are clueless. The cel code was A/T and ABS fault but that has nothing to do with my current problem zz

  5. Took it to the mechanics and there clueless, went to 3 different places. They got the same code but are clueless why it's having trouble starting. Have to push the pedal in every morning start up. Am randomly car struggles with revs then shuts down when at a red light. Car idles perfectly at 1000 when warmed up no hesitation or shaking only until when it's warm up it will randomly just drop revs like it's about to die on me

  6. Car starts up now, sounds perfectly fine but at occasions after 10mins of driving when on idle or when driving the rpm drops slightly and starts to shudder like the car is about to die and the rpm goes back to normal sitting at 1000rpm. any thoughts ??
    CHANGED : Spark plugs, Coils, New AFM, Fuel Filter. No visible vacuum leak, cooler hose or tight with clamps. I'm lost :(

  7. Broken COOLANT sensor

    So I was removing my Coolant Temperature sensor to replace it with a new one and when I took it off it was snapped in half. I tried to get tweezers to get the other half out and it just fell in. Should I leave it or try and get it out even though I can't feel it anymore????????? Would it be a problem ??

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