R32austian
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Posts posted by R32austian
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So is it safe to say that I can reach my goal this his turbo for 400 hp or NOT ? I just want to run 1.2 bars and I'm buying injectors but I'm still unsure what standalone system to run with, any ideas out there ?
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Turbo wizards help
Hey guys , so my r32 came with a Rb20det with a hks cast iron manifold and this turbo , I try to find out info on it like what's the max psi I can run safely before she blows lol but I can't find anything . Basically I just want to know how good this turbo is ? I'm shooting for 400ish hp and what to know if this turbo is good enough ,
i swapped out my Rb20det for a rb25det neo but I kept my turbo setup
hks cast iron manifold
tb34 60. Turbo
3 inch down pipe and exhaust
external waste gate currently at 10psi
stock neo rb injectors
front mount intercooler
oil cooler
stage 3 clutch clutch masters
255 walbro fuel pump .
also next question can I put up my boost at 15 psi safely with the setup that I have ??
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Ok guys is this the timing belt because it's too tight ?
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1 hour ago, 89CAL said:
While its a good idea, not all oil pumps work this way. RB oil pumps are pretty good at this. I usually pull the CAS plug off mine and crank it a bit after changing oil. But even without doing this (and even when I started my rebuilt engine for the first time), Oil pressure builds up pretty quickly
As I said though, Priming it before starting will ALWAYS be better than starting it without priming.
I've heard of old Land Rovers (I think?) needing to be primed after a service or they won't pickup oil.
So i will try your technique, unplug the cas and give it couple cranks . I still think that's not the issue because my oil cooler was empty and now it's full of oil but let's try
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So the wiring diagram only shows what wires go to where, but for Rb25det neo but for some reason my gauge won't work now . Have anyone here done a rb25det swap in there r32 and what have they done ?
How do I know my oil pump is working ? It's fairly easy to install . It's not my first time installing a oil pump so I wouldn't think it's not work .
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Help please with oil pressure gauge
Hey guys so I installed my Rb25det neo in my r32 Gtst everything went fine . For the wiring I bought wiring specialties complete swap kit . The only problem is that my cluster oil pressure gauge shows ZERO oil pressure all the time . I don't understand if the rb25det neo oil pressure sensor will not work with the stock r32 cluster . Can that be it ? If so do I have to put my Rb20det oil pressure unit in but if I do how do I wire that up ? The neo uses 1 wire and the Rb20det uses 2wires so I have no idea how I would do that . By the way I put new oil pump in so I do have oil pressure! Lol i looked up write ups but no one talked about how to do that . I just want my stock cluster to show oil pressure with my neo Rb25det swap in it . Any advice helps . I know that the rb25det neo 1 wire goes to the ecu but the Rb20det has 2 wires and I can't find a diagram that can tell me if 1 wire goes to the ecu and the other is a ground or what!!!!
Thanks
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R32 Gtst neo rb25det swap help
Hey guys I know this might be a annoying question, so I'm doing a rb25det neo swap and the issue is that I can't find anything clear enough on the internet on what color or number wires I need to connect to my inside harness in order to start the engine. Like for s13 rb swaps or sr there are good diy write up showing the wiring diagram one which one to connect to your dash Harnes but for a r32 skyline Gtst to swap in a rb25det neo I can't find anything so I need help on that so I can finish my swap please
i need pictures or atleast a pin out diagram
the picture is my old Rb20det
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R32 Gtst neo rb25det swap help
Hey guys I know this might be a annoying question, so I'm doing a rb25det neo swap and the issue is that I can't find anything clear enough on the internet on what color or number wires I need to connect to my inside harness in order to start the engine. Like for s13 rb swaps or sr there are good diy write up showing the wiring diagram one which one to connect to your dash Harnes but for a r32 skyline Gtst to swap in a rb25det neo I can't find anything so I need help on that so I can finish my swap please
i need pictures or atleast a pin out diagram
the picture is my old Rb20det
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Hey guess I need some advice , sorry I'm not good with this whole offset thing and I looked at your reference and still don't understand.
I have a 1989 r32 Gtst Sadan 4 door
will 18x 8.5 offset +43 fit my car or will I need spacer or it just won't fit ??
Can you guys guys give me advice please . Just before I buy something that won't work
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Just want to start by saying thanks to all of you guys for the input , very helpful !!! Here is a update with my r32
im in search for a Rb20det complete block . If you know where I can possibly get one please direct me to it , here in Austria it's easier finding gold or diamonds in the mountains than finding anything skyline related lol .
That rb23 block got sold already so that's not a option anymore ..... sucks and getting a used rb25det and then using it is so risky for me because I don't know how dependable it could be maybe I will need to do a rebuild on it and that's more money I have to spend so I rather just rebuild my more with a knowing Rb20det block that has no knock and rebuilding everything.
let me know where to get a block please
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But I'm looking for a Rb20det long block with everything inside of it
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Looking for trades ?
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Guys is this a good option? Or should I just buy a stock bottom end ?
http://www.jdmdistro.com/shop/engines/nissan-skyline-rb23-stroker-forged-rb20det-engine/
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2 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:
If you are not in a rush, pull your engine out and strip it down and measure it. If it doesn't need a rebore then you can just do rings and bearings etc.
If it does need machining then you are looking at a rebore, new pistons etc. At this point you need to decide what ambitions you have for the car - and replacing with an RB25DET (preferably a Neo) would be the way to go. But if you want to limit your investment then fixing up the current motor will probably work out cheaper and you will have some confidence that it will last a while.
I would love to do a rb25det swap but the rules here are so strict, I can't even put a aftermarket air filter without going to a certified mechanic and letting him look at it and do some tests and then approve and pay him a fee and get a certificate that he approved and then that it to my insurance and they put it on my title . Bunch of bs if you ask me , lol unless I just swapped it and cross my fingers they won't find out when I go to my yearly inspection which I doubt they would find out because they have no idea what car this is but if they were to find out I would be f**ked on paying fines and making me swap it out to the original motor . Unless I grind the block number out and stamped Rb20det on it then I think they wouldn't have a clue . Plus what extra work would I have to do to put a rb25det in my car ? Could I use my trans and clutch ? I forgot to mentioned that I have a twin disc clutch and a old school blitz standalone with 6 secondary injectors and a bigger garret turbo with external waste gate and fmic and cams ( don't remember what cams ) digital boost controller , oil cooler and ps cooler , driftworks hicas delete kit and BC br coilovers , and I use 98 octane fuel only . Last time I dyno my car in USA Florida I did 367 to the wheel at 18 psi and 312 to the wheel at 10 psi
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4 hours ago, Ed.williams5 said:
If you're burning oil you'd probably be better off buying a used long block and rebuilding it then just running yours till it blows.
Burning oil means pistons rings are on their way out...which you should (really need to) rehone the block and head to do. I personally wouldn't see the point in throwing new bearings into a motor that is going to need to be apart not too far down the line
That's a good idea , so is it safe to say just run my car till the knock gets really bad and just buy a used bottom end and rebuild it till my end just gives up ? I found a used bottom end for €160 in UK so I can buy it now and start to rebuild it till my shit gives up . Would any of you recommend that idea ? Will it cause any damage to my head or anything else ? That way I could do this with a bit of more time to gather all the parts from over seas or other countries to rebuild it .
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2 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:
If you were in a position to pick up another engine that might be your best bet. If you have another car to get around in you could take the time to pull your motor out and fix it.
But borrow a compression gauge first and see if your motor is sick. Does it smoke and use oil?
Yeah it's probably best to fix it up , unfortunately the nearest place I can get swaps is in Netherlands that i know of , and i spoke to them yesterday and they said all they can acquire is rb25det . I have to research more and see who else around me sells motors from jdm cars arounds . And it's just another risk buying a 20 plus year old motor . I want to fix it because my motor burn oil so either way it needed a rebuild just wanted to know if I could fix the click click noise with new parts or did I just ruin my block
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4 hours ago, Sinista32 said:
When you unplug the coil there is no spark, therefore no combustion in cylinder 6, however the crank still turns so the rod/piston still goes up and down (in a normal situation).
When there is spark/ignition i.e. combustion you get the "clack clack clack" . That's why I think it's serious and maybe the big end bearing.
I have heard the same/similar noise twice with my GTR and both times it was the bearing
Good luck Sammy
My car does burn oil so either way it was needing a rebuild , is this a problem that I can just fix with replacing all the parts with new ones or do I just need a different motor ? I just would hate to have to buy another old Rb20det to rebuild it also !
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Yeah I need order a tool to check the compression or ask around a buddy if they got one. It's not common here to work on your own car , everyone just goes to the mechanic. That's why everyone just has a basic car or a car with just wheels or some sort of new Audi or BMW or vw chipped . I'm the only registered skyline Gtst and there are 3 other Gtr here but own by a dealer that sells them and for him to just look at my car he asking €600 up front . It's a steal
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Also it from number six so if I disconnect the coil the noise is gone and if I connect it back it comes again
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Rb20det stupid noise
Hey guys , I own made nissans, s13 sr20det, Datsun 510 sr20det , s13 vh45de awesome build . And now a r32 Gtst 4 door . I lived in USA and shipped it to Austria in Europe .
Now recently i developed this noise and I can't seem to figure it out .
I changed the oil and same issue , I did the check with a screwdriver to see if there is movement and no movement found, I know it's coming out of #6 area but I can't seem to figure it out . Please any input would help . I'm the only registered skylinein my country . Noise seems to go away when I unplug coil #6 I tried swapping out the coils around but still same noise happens between 2,000 - 2,500 only
here is a video .
Turbo wizards help
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Thank for your guide !