Toombs
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Posts posted by Toombs
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4 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:
search for how to produce codes that tell what the warning light means.
Yea just had a search, cheers. Thought only that consults could check that but found another way lol. Bridging the terminal together.. will try that tomorrow sometime and will update.
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4 hours ago, djr81 said:
Take a photo and post it.
The Nissan pipe will have a small orifice (Restrictor) in is. Does your new piping?
PCV = Positive Crank ventilation. When you have manifold vacuum it will suck the blowby out of the sump. It is usually on the exhaust cam side of the engine half way along. What did you do to the piping on this side?
Catch can setup https://imgur.com/gallery/6xCz6
Tbh this is my first import and im quite new to dealing with them. The engine is NEO not sure if that matters. It seems to run perfectly well.. actually better... boost is more obvious and same with power. But with the check engine light on im worried if i continue driving it as my daily I'll damage something expensive :'( As you can see in the picture its just a basic setup to be considered legal so if this is wrong please let me know of a better way?
Cheers!
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Did a search and couldn't find a topic like this.
Any way, did a catch can install on my GT-T yesterday and nI now have a check engine light on... and dont know what the problem is. Its plumbed from the cam breathers to a tee piece to join them together, going into the 'in' on the can, then the 'out' going back to the intake before the turbo. Have I dont it wrong? Id check for a pcv but tbh I have no clue where or what it is. Any better suggestions for a closed loop system or and help would be great!
Thanks in advance guys!
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So just an update to my post. Turns out got a blown head gasket between cyl 6 and the coolant channels. Valves for it are shot as well and the tune done to it was hiding most of the obvious symptoms. Going to cost me roughly 3grand to replace. I live in Townsville FNQ so is there anyone here that may know of a decent tuner at all for power fc?
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Ill let the mechanic know that. Cheers
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Only took them off for the mechanic, problem was there before removing them :-/
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R34 gtt idle problems and bad running
So basically as title suggests i have an r34 gtt. Basically stock except using power fc with rb25neo, steel bearing turbo tuned to 13psi, and walbro fuel pump (255 i think? Cant remember exactly)
Her idle is running terrible. Constantly hunting idle making it sound like its got fat cams lol, and even worse when cold and cold nights. Tends to surge on cruise speeds (60, 80, 100) as well and a light throttle tap temporarily stops it. Under boost she pops alot on revs over 4k and just found that shes making sucking noises under the hood somewhere, IAC have been removed and no gunk is inside but cleaned and replaced anyway.
Just today she started getting worse, started making a weird (soory for the silly description but its all i can associate it to) robotic kinda wirring noise everytime it tried to raise the idle rev during hunting and then stalling not long after. Will attach video link.
Ive taken it to multiple mechanics and all just seem to be trying to drain my money coz ill get the car back "fixed" but its not and all they say when i bring it back is "no idea why its doing that". Its driving me absolutely insane... just want her to run right as shes currently my daily
Any help will be amazingly appreciated, shes due to go into a new mechanic that specializes in rebuilds but even they say they may not find the problem.
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2 hours ago, admS15 said:
Ive used ebay radiators in many cars and never had an issue, not even on the racetrack where any deficiency or weakness would show. Unless you're building a super high hp engine i wouldn't think twice. Ebay ftw.
In that case i may grab one as an interim till i get one from jap. Keep it as a spare lol
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15 minutes ago, mick-r34gtt- said:
Ebay have them...
Yea ive checked out ebay but im a bit weary though, would rather pay more for a known brand lol
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Just now, jmknights93 said:
No problems, let me know once you've ordered. I'll push the order forward for you.
I just seen its OEM. Im looking for alloy but at least its only 30-45 days wait and not 6 weeks lol
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1 hour ago, jmknights93 said:
Have you search online at all? In stock and no 6 week waiting period.
http://justjap.com/jjr-oem-style-replacement-radiator-nissan-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea-a-t-m-t.html
Awesome cheers for that. I did have a look aeound but being new to imports im not too bright on where to look haha. I could get it locally but they are charging at least 200-300 more to be built. Will definitely check this site out.. thanks heaps!
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28 minutes ago, WMDC35 said:
According to my info the 34GTR rad is different to GTT, haven't seen the 34GTR type so not sure what is different
Damm.. guess ill be waiting 6 weeks for one from japan then :'(
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Anyone? Really need help with this and cant find info online?
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1 hour ago, 89CAL said:
Was it a stock plastic radiator? Might have just been due to fail. Otherwise the only thing that causes too much pressure, is your radiator cap being faulty or incorrect
Nah it was a fat alloy one. But do you know if the GTR ones will fit?
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34gtr radiators fit 34gtt?
Anyone know if an aftermarket 34GTR radiator with fit into a r34 GTT? My local dealer only has GTR radiators and not really wamting to wait 8 weeks for one from japan if i can get one in a week.
My radiator had a huge blow out, ceacked between the fins on top and bottom driver side. Apparently too much pressure. Anyone know what could cause this as well?
Thanks folks!
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The car...
How my catch can is now...
I just cant get over the fact she runs really well without it connected in any way
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On 2009-2-6 at 5:17 PM, mlr said:
The usual comment from mine is "how much is it going to cost this time". To which i reply "I love you honey"
I do this all the time haha
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2 hours ago, inmaniac said:
Hey mate, welcome.
If you've got a GTT you have an RB25, not RB26. Just fyi. (probably just a typo )
Also, you say it's stock but it's running 15psi? That's too high buddy and is also likely a cause of some problems pending the tune. Turn it down to 10-12psi before you pop your snail!
It's also very strange that disconnecting your catch can would help with the issue you described. You've gotta be careful with your plumbing with stuff like that too, but you say it's running right now so I'll take your word for it.
Throw up some pictures so we can see what you're working with.
Yea my bad rb25 neo (typo) but 15 is ok. Mechanic had a look and said its highflowed... my mistake i shouldve mentioned that.
But as for the catch can.. the problem was it was shooting black smoke and sometimes white (both on boost and idol) was repaired by the mech but kept happening.. he checked everything. All seal.. patched up 7 vac/boost leaks and reset to factory the power fc and completely new tune. Had a hunting issue before but its not soo bad now on idol. I find it weird to be running without the catch hoses connected but it seems to like it if i connect it up it feels like its not getting enough breathing room. Will grab a pic up tomorrow, if there was a way for vids id do that
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New r34 gtt NEO owner
Hey people, new 34 gtt neo owner here, been on the site here for a while finding tips for my car and finally decided to join up. My car is a stock R34Gt-t RB26 NEO and she hates me haha. Had alot of problems since I bought her unfortunately and all i want is for her to run smooth. Shes gota power fc with the steel bearing turbo, tuned at 15psi but has probs with a power cut (i think) on WOT boost. Felt like she wasnt breathing right so disconnected catch can and she was great.. albeit illegal... so thats just the tip of the iceberg lol. See you in the forums!!!
Check engine light on after catch can install
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Ok so i got code 55 : no malfunction... which is weird coz the engine light is still on.