Blackgtr
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Posts posted by Blackgtr
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Hi, id like to compare and contrast the oem factory boost solenoid versus an aftermarket electronic boost controller; for rb26 mostly but also rb20/25.
My main curiosity is how it regulates boost. An ebc has the ability to control not only a specific psi but also when the gate begins to open, whether early to give a smooth curve or late, for more aggressive curve with a possibility of a spike.
I noticed the factory unit has a plug too, does anyone know what its for? Also, how efficient is it at controlling boost pressure ie: adding an exhaust, owners see an increase in boost pressure.
Is it worthwhile to swap for an EBC if stockish boost levels are desired or will there be a benefit to lag and transient response?
Regards
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Just a heads up. A Camaro and VL was stolen this morning at 6am from a factory in Heidelberg West.
The car community is very close and alot of people know each other so please keep your ear to the ground and pass to friends.
Any information please contact.
Ps: watch your rides.
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Amazing! Can you imagine how far technology has come: from metallurgy for blocks, pistons, rods to engine management, modern fuel and turbo efficiency. Even a gearbox that can cope with this power and torque.
In the past, this result was only capable from huge displacement v8s running on methanol. Nobody can disagree that tuner culture allowed for such development over such a short period of time.
Love to see the quarter and some roll racing.
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11 hours ago, DD-GTR said:
I dont think so but it might need it does run a bit lumpy on idle. Ye its plenty power for track now, any more and I will need a big brake kit. I just ordered some pfc rotors for front and some pfc 11 pads all round. I have Pfc uprades on my M3 and its so good with stock calipers.
Lumpy idle. Yeah its probably the cams. I saw just yesterday a blue gtr with tomei cams and e85. It was very lumpy on cold start and idle. Some cam gear adjustment will help shift the powerbank; great for an upgraded turbo rb26, especially on slower corners and on the street.
The car looks great, i had an r33 gts4 a long time ago and ive always loved the r33 gtr. Definitely put a stock rear bumper on, we are over the whole bling bling bodykits. Oem is king now.
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28 minutes ago, DD-GTR said:
450whp on 2wd dyno. So on 4wd dyno im guessing 410whp going by other peoples experience.
Only running around 18psi or 1.25bar max boost. He said engine is very healthy and car is in great condition
Pretty happy with that. It feels pretty quick now.
Very impressive. I know that with modern single turbos, more power can be made but some people enjoy the factory twin turbo sleeper look; im one of them.
Your figure is a perfect number for daily and track days; also the occasional spirited twisties.
Was there any cam gear adjustment?
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3 minutes ago, DD-GTR said:
He is tuning it tomorrow morning now. He said the car is in great condition. No leaks or anything to fix apart from what I knew about. PZP in Perth are good guys. I find that first time you take a car to a place they come up with a long list of things, some of which are debatable.
I have cams, intakes, 4" exhaust, FMIC, R34 N1 BB turbos will pushed to 1.4 bar........I expect to make 300wkw
Always good to find a mechanic who only fixes what needs to be done and charges for their time to do the job; not goofing off for half the time and expecting you to pay.
Great mods. Definitely 300+awkw. No restriction with 4inch exhaust.
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Please let us know how your dyno tune went. I think it will make 240awkw.
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On 19/03/2018 at 3:02 PM, DD-GTR said:
Ye might have to sell one before she gets back. No more room in the garage too.
They are all great cars. The evo is quite a good daily as its SST but It has a bad turning circle and limited vision because of large pillars at front. It is really responsive and It has so much grip it is very efforless on track. Just point and shoot. I could see it getting a bit boring on track. I have taken it once so far and it is just as fast as M3, maybe faster with more track time.
My M3 is a great track car. I have spent quite a lot on it. It makes a great noise, stops well and handles quite well and is very tail happy when pushed. It revs hard and has been quite reliable. It has more top end power than the Evo and its more of a drivers car. Easy to drive as a daily if I take the cage out and put seats back in but not a practical as the Evo.
I think the GTR will take over as my track car as I want more power now and its too costly to increase the power on M3 without forced induction.
Im getting it tuned, rebuilding the calipers, track pads, new fluids, bushings and coilovers and it should be pretty quick. I think the GTR feels like an event every time I drive it as it makes some great noises and boosting it hard to resist.
I like all my cars and its going to be hard to sell any one of them but If I had to it would probably be the Evo.
While you have your gtr in the shop make sure you do the oil system mods. A head drain or restrictors, a bigger sump with baffles and your good to go. I have some new -9 turbos with new gasket install kit, a blitz front pipe and nismo afms if you are interested. Dont mean to hawk my wares in your thread, just an idea.
How is the auto transmission in your evo, ive always wondered if they are as good as the german stuff.
Is your m3 a manual? I drove an e46 m3 with the paddles and i couldnt get used to it on a short drive; i wonder if they are smooth for cruising and in traffic/carparks
I have an r34 gtr myself and i dont like the turning circle. I wonder if the 32 33 were any better.
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Hi Duncan, good job with hiding it from the wife.
As you already are a car enthusiast with few different vehicles you probably see the design philosophy of each car. The rb series gtrs are definitely more of a special occasion weekend warrior rather than an a to b. Sure you can daily them but they arent as enjoyable in traffic, parking etc. They like the mid to high rpm on the open twisty roads.
Get some seat time and let us know how you feel compared to the beema and evo.
All the best mate
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1 hour ago, r32-25t said:
The power fc will be fine even after this time, the stock ecu will generally cause detonation even at mild modification level in Australia
1 hour ago, admS15 said:There is no reason for the car to be retuned unless you where never happy with the tune done.
I wouldn't go back to a stock untuned ecu. For what you're doing with your car, the power fc is sufficient and although they dont have many of the modern ecu features, they do their job of running an rb very well. Cheers.Thanks guys, the power fc while older gen is still popular and seems to do the job fine. I just wanted to clarify about the oem ecu.
Seeing modern cars have flash tunes on the factory ecu: from the r35 to even a falcon xr6 turbo; i was curious if any company flash the older gen bnr series ecu with good results. Ive heard of nistune.
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If you check trading post, there is a company wrecker selling many parts from at least 2 bnr34. All the best mate.
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5 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:
If you know a good tuner who knows PFC just get a safe tune. The Impul ecu was tuned in Japan for Japanese fuel - your PFC can be tuned to match the fuel you are buying .
1 hour ago, r32-25t said:Leave it alone cause with your current power fc the car is tuned for the fuel it is using, Nissan tune these to suit the high octane Japanese fuel and engines tend to die over here because of it
Yes i did install the fc as soon as i got the car. I used octane booster and drove gently to be safe while i waited for the date of the tune.
I asked the tuner to run the car safe and i always watch the knock.
Main thing id like to know is will the power fc current tune (since it was performed over 5 years ago) be optimal after years and maybe 6k kms?
And if i put a stock ecu in, how good were they; can they run optimally for the small modifications like an aftermarket exhaust and the subsequent mild increase in boost. Things like knock retard and closed loop?
Thanks for the replies so far!
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Hi, Ive had my GTR for a long time now. Its stock apart from a catback exhaust and high flow cat. It came with a boost controller set to 1bar and had an Impul remap ecu.
The first thing i did was install power fc and newer model hks evc tuned to stock boost for australian 98 vpower.
My main question is since I like the car in standard form and dont drive it except in my estate to keep it running once a week. Would the stock ecu be a better option with the factory tune and safety features?
Are there any options for a remap? Or should i stick to the power fc and if i do, would it be wise to do a tune and dyno run since its been unchanged for over 5 years.
Any advice would be appreciated.
-John
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Sorry late on the pics.
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1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:
Yes, but not in the way that you might think. Superchargers into old Celicas and stuff, yes. I have never (and will never) attempt to improve a FWD shitter. Been in too many fast Cordias back in the day to want to relive those nightmares.
Hehe, i actually have a penchant for eg civics but will never work one one or build one.
Ive never driven, nor know much about cordias but ill check them out on youtube.
Cheers mate.
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3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Yeah, it's not going to fit into any car made since the 90s really - except F trucks and the like. There's not enough room in the engine bay for something that chunky, and typical FWD chassis are only worse. Think about trying to put a big 3-4" supercharger pulley on the front end of a FWD engine in the 3mm gap between the existing one and the chassis rail.
The reality is that this is a very niche product. For that market, it's great. For the general market, not so much. There's a reason why real hybrids either sandwich the e-motor between the engine and transmission or go the whole hog and use wheel motors. Packaging.
Sounds like you have experience with trying to install a supercharger kit. Its hard enough to fit your arm into a skyline engine bay to change an oil filter.
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When bmw wanted a block for their f1 engines, they used a moderate km used block from their road cars. The though was that the engine would have shown any stress by then.
A non n1 block would be my choice with a build; either rb26 or rb30. They are tried and proven for decent power without grout filling.
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Very cool but expensive and large; i would assume packaging problems for most cars. Better for smaller displacement engines though.
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41 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:
Volvo has compressed air setup.
Now thats pretty cool.
Imagine the ultimate future engine with koenigsegg freevalve, variable geometry turbos with compressed air system.
I dont know why hks would announce this, im more interested in their lpg tuning which they were promoting on the ex evo time attack car.
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7 minutes ago, KerrodR33 said:
R.i.p.s or spool 3.2L?
Going the 30 bottom end route for cost and strength to avoid having to buy an N1 block. Aiming for 750awhp
Ive been a big fan if RIPS rb30. Its tried and proven he has also been doing them for decades.
Should email him and ask for a custom quote to your specifics.
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Audi have an suv where they impliment an electric turbo for low down torque and lag.
The car required a 48volt power supply for 77k rpm turbine. Something like 7kw to produce boost. With all cars electronic at 12v the car could never run an electric turbo and have any effect.
One option i thought of would be an air tank and compressor to help spool the turbine up; the compressed air would be introduced into the exhaust housing perhaps with a twin scroll or variable vane system.-
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Hey, i dont want to spread bs information but i seem to remember a tuning shop that offers a warranty on a complete build and tuning up to the first start and initial tune performed on their dyno.I must be missing something here. Can people please advise which shops offer warranty on performance engines?
Im not talking about after sale support because you spent heaps of money there im talking aboutmore than that.
Once the car is started, the initial breakin is performed on dyno by the shop, oil changed and is tuned.
After that, the warranty is over.
I dont know if this was a one-off or common practice but seems reasonable when a customer asks for a full, all included turn key package where there are no outside factors to affect the finished product.
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It is a big risk for a huge amount of money. How much power are you chasing?
If it was me, i would buy a RIPS rb30 or simply forge your own engine. Talk to tuning shops and they may even offer a warranty on the build to the dyno tune. Even to the final tune if they limit the rpm and boost.
Piece of mind to save stress and a hole in the pocket.
Regards mate
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The parts would be good for someone who wants to return their car to stock standard maybe to sell or just for themselves.
I would keep the twin turbo pipe, the snorkel and even the exhaust but perhaps loan/rent them out to people who need to pass a noise test or inspection.
Regards mate.
EBC vs OEM factory solenoid actuator
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Thanks for the reply mate. How about the rb26? I know that stock boost is around 1bar or just a tad under but i dont think it has a boost by gear. There is a plug too. I assume for power?
Main thing, how does nissan set the boost curve? Does it bleed the gate so there is a smooth curve or open late, producing a spike?
Also there is that restrictor 'boost mod' how does that work?