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Up_Troys_Bucket

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Posts posted by Up_Troys_Bucket

  1. 1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

    There's a little vacuum manifold that connects to all the inlet runners between the throttle blades and the head.  This is where the 26 gets vacuum signal to run the brakes, and boost gauge, etc.  You will not have fun trying to work under there.

    I'll be honest I don't understand any of that. Don't get me wrong, I'm solid with wiring and connections and diy maintenance I just don't understand the parts and where they are but it sounds like you're saying it's a PITA. 

    Engine bay is pretty chokers, any other suggestions? 

    IMG_20180510_133707.jpg

  2. Hi,

    Trying to install a boost gauge in my 89 R32 GTR. I've searched the forums and Google extensively and there is a lot of great information about teeing into the stock boost gauge line as shown in the attached picture borrowed from a diy thread on this forum. 

    Problem is that line has been removed on my car. There are some other diagrams but I'll be honest, I don't get it. 

    As I am a simple person and visual learner, does anyone have or can anyone take a photo showing me where that line used to connect to the engine? 

    That way I figure I can skip teeing into that line and just connect the tube directly to the engine. 

    Thankyou in advance!! 

    post-10239-1150443464.jpg

  3. Hi,

    Trying to suss out some replacement clips for the interior. Heaps are missing but at this point just looking for the ones used to hold the floor boards down as pictured. (Which incidentally I think might be the same in other areas of the car like the boot trim). 

    Anyone sourced replacements? 

    Any help is appreciated, IMG_20180507_141740.thumb.jpg.092135eee31b60d97a4bf98ac2991dbe.jpg

  4. Hi,

    Looking to replace all the fuses in the fuse box on the drivers side of the engine bay. Although not blown I can see build up on the metal part of the fuse. 

    The 'regular' fuses I'm fine with. Did some googling in the other ones (orange and green) marked 'pacific' and the other larger ones (including the one completely missing that I hope is the reason my high beams don't work) and can't seem to find replacements. Does Nissan sell them? 

    Any help is appreciated,

     

    IMG_20180507_144837.jpg

  5. 3 hours ago, Piggaz said:

    7670/1.05

    e85

    supporting mods

    go.

    Not keen on running E85 to be honest. Has to be achievable on pump gas

     

    22 minutes ago, Griffin said:

    Borg Warner s256 or similar. Unbeatable for value and reliability.

    Don't get caught in the crowd like all the other sheep on the forum. Do what suits your needs. 

    Plenty of cheque book racers on here will tell you otherwise.

    Thanks mate, I will check it out now 

  6. 2 hours ago, WantGTR said:

    How much are you expecting to spend? What is the current setup? You can take a punt and buy a china version of the turbo if you want to save money. Its a waste but its cheaper.

    I'm not adverse to spending money, I just think if GCG are for example selling the GTX3076R for sub $2000 (admittedly for the RB25) with a 350-550hp range then there must be something in that price range to suit my needs for the rb26. 

    I have also emailed gcg to see what they can come up with. 

  7. 10 hours ago, WantGTR said:

    Gen ii 3582r. More responsive than any twin setup and will make more power everywhere. Plus lots more than 400hp

    Thankyou for the suggestion. Just had a quick look, with a power range of 450 to 800hp it seems way out of my needs, especially coming in at $3,200. 

    Does anything else offer good spool up time, more of a 450 top range and come in a bit cheaper? 

    I do realise that a 450 to 800 HP window is a great investment at $3200 if you think you might upgrade later but I'm 100% confident I'm happy with 400-450hp

  8. Hi,

    Have a new R32 GTR in the stable. It's a long story but suffice it to say I have very very little information on this car and it will, in the near future be heading to a mechanic to see exactly what has already been done. 

    It already has a big single turbo conversion that is super laggy, full boost at like 5100rpm.

    Straight to the very weird question:

    I only want to make 400hp at wheels, I want the absolute best street response up to that power level. 

    Putting twins back on is cost prohibitive. 

    Best single for my purpose?

     

    Thankyou 

  9. On 02/05/2018 at 9:39 AM, Kinkstaah said:

    See above.

    I don't personally give it any more than 25% throttle until oil temp is 70C and Water temp is at thermostat temp, which in my car is 78-80C.

    On the track I've not had oil temp go much over 100-103 after/during a full session with 400kw, but this is with a 25row oil cooler. I would back off at 130C prior to getting an oil cooler, and obviously decided to get an oil cooler.

    At the same track, Water temp will get up to/around 95 or so. I now start getting nervous if any temperature gauge has a number in three figures. I have warnings/cutoffs/engine protection set at

    a) Any AFR above 12.5 with boost above 3psi for more than 100ms.
    b) Oil or Water temp over 120C.

    That is a (very rough) set of examples for you.

    Much appreciated, thankyou!! 

  10. 8 minutes ago, ausromeo said:

    What digital multi gauge did you get? And are you happy with it?

    With past vehicles I've always set water for 100c, oil for 120c and a 15psi min limit on oil pressure. Note some cars will regularly see 100c water temp in warm climates with ac.

     

    Thanks

    It's a Just Race Parts 10 in 1 gauge which is currently on the way so not yet installed. 

    From all accounts it's a very capable multi gauge and the service thus far from the designer / retailer has been on point. 

    I appreciate your input on the figures, interestingly I am also hearing that on some RB's 10 psi at 1k rpm isn't unusual?

  11. 18 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

    You don't need minimum values. Turn the key and drive away (so long as you have oil pressure). Don't thrash it until its warmed up (70 to 80 deg C) .

    Oil pressures will vary a lot according to the state of your engine, grade of oil used, state of tune etc.  Do some reading and you will find what some people consider acceptable.  10psi per 1000 rpm is a very rough rule of thumb but very different pressures may be fine too.

    There are no hard and fast maxima. You will have to do some research and decide your own. Over 100degC is getting hot but a strong engine will tolerate more for a while. The pressurised cooling system is designed raise the boiling point. Oil over 120C is getting hot but fully synthetic will tolerate high temps better than mineral oil.

    In short carry on driving and do a lot of reading and come to your own conclusions.

    I understand what you're saying, especially in the context of 'learn your own engine'. 

    Surely though there is still a rough oil temp people would suggest is an ideal minimum before driving.

    And by the same token a water temp and oil temp level at which it's advised to allow the engine to cool down or shut down to avoid damage. Likewise an oil pressure that if dropped below should be an indication there is an issue. 

    Considering aftermarket ECU's such as Haltechs and Motecs can be used to set limits and take action on a number of inputs I just would have thought those inputs would be more 'common' or 'available'for lack of a better term. 

    None the less I appreciate your advice and will see what I can ascertain from my own car once the gauge is up and running. 

  12. Hi all,

    New here, and new owner of an R32 GTR. I have recently bought a digital multi gauge to monitor my boost, oil pressure, oil temp and water temp. An added bonus of this digital gauge is it allows for the input of minimum values before it's safe to start driving and maximum (or minimum) values which, once reached would set off an alarm so you can act accordingly.

    Despite my best efforts (including searching via the forum and google) I can't seem to find a solid answer for the minimum and maximum ideal values for oil pressure, oil temp and water temp (not boost as obviously that is dependant on the vehicle). 

    I know this may change with engine builds, oil types etc BUT, I am thinking there must be a best guess value for these assuming a stock rb26dett?

    If I have missed a thread where this is covered I apologise but am happy to be corrected!! :)

    Any help is appreciated, 

  13. Hi All,

    Obligatory new member introduction post. 

     

    I have recently acquired a R32 GTR. I have been trawling a number of threads over the past weeks or so gathering up information and decided it was time to join up. 

    I will be trying to gather up some more information of the next few weeks and am actually looking forward to attending a few meets and drives in the near future.

     

    Cheers,

     

     

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