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saliya

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Posts posted by saliya

  1. Doesnt matter, maybe in vic its different but. In NSW, my engineer said its tested shut, driven shut, there is nothing they can say. Even if they know its a varex. He said there is no difference in me testing it with that or having a quiet pipe then swapping it at home. Except how fast it can be done. He instructed me when harassed about it to take it to the top as he told others who succeeded.

    Thats NSW laws though they smash you's alot harder there.

    Who is your engineer in NSW? PM me if you don't want to post here. I have done the ring around and there's nobody I

    found that would test a variable exhaust at anything other than fully open.

    To the OP: it's super unlikely that you'll get done for 92dB vs 90dB. You can get that much variation from temperature and surroundings on the day (lower temp = louder; harder surroundings = louder). If you pass the d1ckhead test you could probably get away with 95dB :P Resist the temptation to tell Mr. Po Po to jam it, and you will avoid being in a world of hurt.

    Cheers,

    SW

  2. The car I've bought would rate slightly better than about a 6/10.......

    It needs gearbox overhaul as reverse is near impossible to get once she's warmed up.

    You can (last time I tried) get all the bits for the box from Nissan and i_cant_remember_the_name_of_bearing_people_but_your_gearbox_rebuilder_will.

    However, the disassembly + gaskets + bearings + reassembly_assuming_no_broken_bits won't leave you much change from $1k.

    Cheers,

    SW

  3. today i removed the sard fpr and borrowed a wait for it lol malpassi off my mates car knowing it works.So i set base pressure at 45psi with out vacume.Attached vacume line and it the dropped to about 30psi.b4 i did this i did remove my blow off valve.As i rev'd the car i watched the pressure gauge and come to the conclusion that the sard reg = stuffed lol

    Hey,

    Assuming your new FPR is working properly, sounds like your problem is too much fuel because of two things:

    Atmo BOV == too much fuel when it opens. This is what happens on an air-metered car when the air is dumped.

    Fuel pressure without vacuum should be 43psi for an R32 GTR (not 45) per p. EN-25 in the service manual.

    With vacuum it should be about 36psi at idle, but the BOV change may affect that.

    Try decreasing the base rail pressure to 43psi.

    Cheers,

    SW

  4. So my mate goes to the cops to make a formal complaint and says here it is on DVD and this charming officer needs sacking! So instead, the cops say ' did you tell the officer he was being recorded and obtain his permission first, my mate says 'no the cameras are always one and he just begun making threats, it was the last thing I was thinking about' so the cops say lose the DVD or we will charge you under the NSW surveillance ACT for breach of the privacy which carries a fine of up to $150,000.00 and OR 5 years in prison.

    Soooo my mate 'lost'... the DVD. This country is f**ked up big time, its laws dont make sense, the half wits who enforce them dont understand them, your told to comply so as to avoid tickets/confusion yet when u do comply u can still be issued with tickets and corrupt coppers cant be filmed because you didnt warn them first they are being filmed..... WTF is up with Australia.... seriously!

    The NSW WORKPLACE Surveillance Act 2005 ( http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/nsw/consol_act/wsa2005245/ ) ???

    It's directed at employers monitoring their employees, not the public monitoring the public.

    I hope he didn't "really" lose it - he could take it to a lawyer for a professional opinion.

    Who knows: the officer in question might learn some manners, and your mate could be one of

    those people that gets paid a handsome sum to shut up by NSW Police. And the more money this

    officer costs NSW Police, the less likely that they will remain employed. Win/win/win.

    Cheers,

    SW

  5. Just be aware that defamation laws still apply even if it's not illegal. Poorly thought out displays of video can still have severe consequences.

    I would love to have an onboard camera too however, and with motion detecting for when the car is parked. Some years back my new car (2nd hand but first day I had owned it) got keyed in the car park as I was doing the change of ownership thing. I came outside and nearly died. Even though the car was insured earlier that day I just couldn't bring myself to go back to the insurance and say it had been keyed that afternoon. Video proof would have given me the confidence to go back and see the insurance company.

    As of 2006 truth became a complete defence:

    http://www.efa.org.au/Issues/Censor/defamation.html

    So it would be very hard for someone to win a defamation case based on the content of an unedited video.

    Cheers,

    SW

  6. zomg. I'm sure I wrote an article about this awhile ago for a GTR: wait, here it is:

    http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/111401-bosch-044-intank-r32-gtr/page__hl__gtr+044

    Basically: the 044 is fine in fuel (mine's still in the tank and going strong); fitting isn't unreasonably hard for the flow; but there are reasonably-priced drop in replacements like nismo or tomei available now

    that will get you close for similar money without all the fsck arsing around.

    If you are considering Walbro and high HP you should check its flow at your required rail pressures like 65+psi (i.e. 38psi rail + 27+ psi boost) because you might be unpleasantly surprised at the falloff.

    Cheers,

    SW

  7. pfft to 500km+ per tank in an RB Nissan :) Best I've been able to do thus far closed-loop is 14L/100km (2630+).

    Of course, the PFC is fairly venerable tech these days and I'm fairly sure I've never managed to avoid the dreaded right foot at least once per trip.

    Still, beggars can't be choosers. It might be dragged from my Cold, Dead Hands but you can never be sure...

  8. Evos have factory antilag, but having it on anything else would be impossible to get engineered short of a drive cycle test, in which case it wouldnt effect the reading(depnding how it was setup)

    ...Strange eh.

    tmk they have the air bypass hardware but not the required ECU mapping.

    I can't imagine any manufacturer that offers warranty leaving this "feature" enabled.

    Cheers,

    SW

  9. Hi guys,

    I have searched a few times under a few different variations of heading and found nothing. All i need to do is remove my afm plug from the factory wiring and replace it with a newer better one. I was expecting the grey plasic plug to be half moulded and clipped together but it's a solid piece with a yellow insert. Am I right in assuming this Yellow insert is the key and if I remove that then the wiring will be able to come out freely? How do u do it without breaking it? The newer plug is second hand with a bit of wiring hanging out but would rather replace the lot rather than cut wires and solder then tape up.

    Thanks in advance

    Liam

    You are going to have to make the electrical joins at some point; while it's possible to disassemble the plug and

    connect the pins to the wires, you will probably get a better result from doing what you prefer not to

    (i.e. join where the breaks are with solder and heatshrink).

    Cheers,

    SW

  10. After blowing the engine of the R35 into 4,823,163 pieces (Yes I counted) I decided to get my local mechanic to fit the engine rather than doing the sensible thing and send it to Martin at Willal.

    WELL on opening up the lines etc there are pieces of engine in the oil cooler, in the filter in all the oil lines we even found a gudgeon pin in the throttle body.

    We are going to flush everything out but how can we be sure that there is no shrapnel left in the circulatory system of the car.

    SURE = 100%. You cannot be sure. Apart from replacing the entire system.

    But you can be reasonably sure. Flush lines and components with solvents, look at the outflow.

    Throw stuff that has small gaps (e.g. oil coolers), hope for the best.

    Cheers,

    SW

  11. Feeling confident, I went to get my EPA Compliance certificate as I felt the Officer had just picked on my vehicle because he saw a Skyline and something was loud. Anyway, car failed the EPA test (96dB rating), mechanic thought it was weird as well and checked the Catalytic Converter to see if that had blown out, nope, still intact. He then basically said he could just make up a new rear muffler and exhaust tip to bring it under the 96dB rating.

    I still have the stock exhaust from my 93 v.spec; I had it measured when it was on and IIRC it was 87.something dB at 4800RPM.

    There's a massive difference in audible sound level between 88dB and 96dB - maybe your mufflers have packed it in?

    Was your test administered by the EPA or by the mechanic? If mechanic, visit another and get a test. Reason:

    * dB meters can go out of calibration (most exhaust places don't calibrate; the EPA is supposed to)

    * the test has to be administered a certain way (many exhaust places don't know the method, it's in the ADR)

    * there is a temperature correction (IIRC, for temps different to 25 degrees). It is very cold now; low temperatures == louder, most exhaust places won't correct.

    * there is a frequency weighting curve (don't know whether meters apply this automatically or not).

    I'm going to call the EPA tomorrow and question them on this as well, see what they have to say. But being a Government body, I expect them to be all "90dB is the standard, your car has to be under this... There is no exceptions to what we say, ever.... We are the Government, we know what's right..... lalalalalalalalalalala NOT LISTENING!!!"

    Don't really know. I don't think that 94dB is what a stock 90 GTR came out at; but since I don't have one of those I can't tell.

    Since it's post 1989 (Motor Vehicle Standards Act) you'd think that it would have had to comply with whatever the emissions requirements were at the time.

    You need to find out which ADR your car needs to be compliant with.

    If it was Aust-delivered or imported pre-1992 that would probably be ADR28/00 (93dB max limit, 92dB stated but within 1dB is compliant, drive-by test).

    If 1992-2005 might be ADR28/01 (91dB max limit, similarly 90dB stated but within 1dB is compliant, stationary and drive-by tests)

    http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbportal/modules.php?name=Content&file=viewcategory&cid=18.

    has what looks to be the originals of many ADRs

    Cheers,

    SW

  12. good to know as i assumed this was the case but didnt want to go toe to toe with a pissed off copper over the issue. I know in the US its pretty different and wouldnt risk it there, dont plan on antagonising anyone with a camera here either but good to know just in case.

    thanks Saliya...

    Hey,

    You don't want to go "toe to toe" anyway - just keep your mouth shut.

    Since you're not telling them they're being recorded, they won't be upset about it.

    If they see a camera and ask that it be shut off, politely ask them why and

    under what law they are making the request. They are law enforcement officers

    and if there is a genuine applicable law to enforce they should be able to tell you.

    And always try to pass the d1ckhead test - no need to make trouble for yourself :)

    If a police officer makes trouble, you want it to be perfectly clear that's what happened when you go visit their CO.

    Regards,

    Saliya

  13. Links please.

    http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/other/lawreform/VLRC/2010/18.pdf?stem=0&synonyms=0&query=right%20to%20privacy%20in%20public%20places -

    Victorian Law Reform Commission on Surveillance in Public Places (2010).

    "At present, no Australian jurisdiction has enacted a statutory cause of action for invasion

    of privacy, and no appellate court has acknowledged the existence of a common law tort

    of invasion of privacy."

    http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/cth/consol_act/taaa1979410/ - Telecommunications (Interception and access) Act.

    "(1) For the purposes of this Act, but subject to this section, interception of a communication passing over a telecommunications system consists of listening to or recording, by any means, such a communication in its passage over that telecommunications system without the knowledge of the person making the communication."

    This Act is the one stopping you from recording another party's telecommunication without their knowledge,

    is the cause of the "you are being recorded" messages when you're speaking to a call centre,

    and is the probable cause of the oft-repeated but mostly-wrong "you can't record someone without their permission".

    Cheers,

    SW

  14. Im pretty sure video is alright without permission like in cctv but when your recording audio separatly or aswell as video you have to make them aware it's being recorded. Police just like call centres inform you when they are recording audio.

    At present, there are no laws governing recording of data in a public place (a roadway, by definition, is a public place).

    The consensus seems to be that whatever you do in public, you should be willing to have recorded.

    There are laws that prevent image/audio recording where people have a reasonable expectation of privacy (e.g. your own home).

    The police inform you because things you say/do might be used in evidence, and there is the requirement that you are informed (basically because they have an unfair advantage).

    The reason that call centres inform is due to the Telecommunications Act 1997 - you are using a carrier service, and it's unlawful to record something carried by such a service without

    either a warrant, or informing the parties that they are being recorded.

    Outcome: As of now (2011); by law, you don't need to inform a police officer (or anyone else) that they're being recorded by your camera/phone/incar surveillance

    if you get pulled over and are recording them from your car. The police officers have no reasonable expectation of privacy when they are interacting with you.

    Regards,

    SW

  15. Hey,

    You're talking about transmitting the radio-toggle-lock-code over a voice call on a mobile network, right?

    Typical car remotes operate at 300-400MHz - way outside the "voice range" (say 0-2.4KHz) that could be successfully transmitted over a mobile phone.

    Even if the signal were in the voice range, the compression that operates on mobile phone calls would probably prevent successful transmission.

    Cheers,

    SW

  16. "supercharged" v8 commonwhore guns it to show off... friend flew up behind him not even trying. Having good chuckles that this guy was trying to lose us and we're there easing up behind him using half his fuel :)

    No, you weren't. It's about 100% unlikely that vehicle 'a' is half as efficient at extracting motivation from fuel as vehicle 'b' given what each of them is.

    To make power you burn fuel. To make more power you burn more fuel.

    Given similar weights to ease up behind him you were burning as much as/more fuel, not half as much.

    Regards,

    SW

  17. sorry dude i just assume averyone on here is a it nerd ( mainly just to rub them up the wrong way)

    each vehicle only has a 80km/h of energy so total energy from the crash from both cars= about half of teh same car doing 160km/h

    crash a car into a wall at 80km/h

    crash two cars head on into each other both doing 80 km/h and the damage is almost the same

    so it only = 80 km/h

    Fatz is right:

    energy is proportional to the square of the velocity at the speeds we're talking about.

    double the velocity = 4x the energy to dissipate assuming same mass.

    Let's give an 80km/h car an energy of 1 unit.

    1 x 80km/h car hitting solid object = 1 unit of energy to dissipate in its crumple zone

    2 x 80km/h cars hitting each other = 2 units of energy to dissipate in each car's crumple zone, say 1 each = similar to solid object impact for 1 80km/h car

    1 x 160km/h car hitting solid object = 4 units of energy to dissipate in 1 car's crumple zone = a way bigger dissipation than 2 x 80km/h.

    Back on topic:

    As part of the motorcycle training all riders must do a video is shown of a station wagon hitting a solid concrete block head on at 80km/h.

    If you were in that wagon (regardless of restraints or airbags) you would be dead. The car ends up being about 1/2-2/3 its original length.

    If a 'safe' travelling speed = a speed at which a solid impact is survivable from inside the car, then that 'safe' speed is more like 45km/h...

    Given that the figures actually show 'speed differential' (i.e. how different your speed is to those travelling around you) is the problem,

    I would like to see "speed recommendation" rather than "speed limit" signs; then fining people according to how far off that "speed recommendation" they are.

    e.g. if the recommended speed is 100, and you're doing 130 (or 70) you should be fined the same.

    Cheers,

    SW

  18. however the insurance companies didnt share the magistrates view of the accident. and according to the claims people i spoke to at both nrma and just car. the car failing to give way is at fault under any circumstances, regardless of speeding , failure to indicate, crossing unbroken lines etc..( except i later found out that apparently drink driving isnt included in this)...ended up costing me a small fortune + my car was a total loss... but im happy to say i well and truly learnt my lesson back then and i hope OP has now too...

    absolutely unbeleivable. are you saying an insurance company claims department over-rode a magistrate's decision on blame?

    that is a new low, even for the bottom feeders in an insurance claims department.

    Had a similar thing happen to a mate of mine:

    * night time

    * he turned right into a driveway

    * oncoming car with lights off hits him in his LH front guard

    * oncoming driver over legal blood alcohol limit

    The police charged the oncoming driver with neg driving and being over the limit, and declared the crash her fault.

    But his insurance company forced him to pay his excess _because he was turning right_.

    Cheers,

    Saliya

  19. NPC twin plate, engagement is smooth (unlike os giken etc), pedal is pretty easy, definately daily driver material and only about $2050 from memory. Handles 600awhp (rev limiter drag launches) on my 1750kg car no drama and would definately reccomend them.

    The best part is they are only about $300-$400 to rebuild, where as os giken etc are like $1200 etc to rebuild.

    That's a definite plus; and is worth considering. I think I got about 40k km out of my OS including various trackdays etc. before it needed a rebuild.

    I guess rebuild cost should be considered along with longevity and the other factors.

    My twin plate is massive, its bigger than the os giken quad plate i had before.

    ... which isn't surprising :) Quad plates means you don't need so much diameter to get the same amount of contact area...

    Cheers,

    SW

  20. Also i have a turbo beanie for it, have been hearing a lot of mixed thoughts about them lately, just wondering if i should run it or not?

    The good part: keeps heat inside the turbo and away from your engine bay etc.

    The bad part: keeps heat inside the turbo!!!

    If the underbonnet heat is not excessive without it and you have appropriate heat shielding then I would not run one.

    Cheers,

    SW

  21. The rallye 2ks are a seriously-bright light. I think you can change from spread to pencil by replacing the front glass.

    You really want something that fits fully inside the body (which _might_ be big enough)

    I would contact a seller that sells kits for rallye 4000 and ask (they're similarly-sized).

    If the globes are physically-different sizes or the arc's not struck at the same spot as the filament

    the light output will be affected as it may no longer be in the mirror's focal point.

    Cheers,

    SW

  22. Hey all,

    ^ the top or your engine is sticking out 10mm past the stock bonnet when closed?

    are u referring to 10mm past the bonnet skin OR 10am past the bonnet brace which is the lowest point of the bonnet?

    The former: 10mm outside the bonnet skin when closed.

    I also have new nismo mounts but im using a rips racing sump adapter & sump extension...what is the thickness of the proengines adapter, 6mm or 8mm?

    i remember talking to greg as he built me engine & i think he stated that his adapter is 6mm whereas rips is 8mm

    I don't know what the adapter thickness is; but as long as there's no fouling "down bottom" I don't think it matters as the mounts are on the block (not the sump).

    The adapter doesnt make a difference to the height, I was looking at modifying the timing cover, and tigging a new piece at the top, as there is quite a bit of clearance between the rb26 cover and the timing belt. PS the rb25 covers sit much lower .

    I like the idea of the CF bonnet with the bulge, is it $880, or have i misread?

    You've misread :) A full prepreg CF bonnet looks like about $1350 at this stage; $880 would be for an ADR-compliant glass bonnet with or without vents.

    Hey Saliya

    Mate props for spending the money to get a no-crack guarantee if you go down that track. I've seen an R32 GTR with an XR8 bulge an IMHO - taste is relative - it was butt ugly. Marko is right re the cutting, I've done it also and it fits well, I'm a detail freak and I'm happy with it. A vibrating saw is your friend.

    Mine definitely did not fit. The bonnet would close by applying some force: enough force to bend the bonnet around the 10mm lump :)

    For me: if it's the same $ to get a bulge grafted to my bonnet as it is to get a full glass bonnet, I would probably prefer to get a complete glass bonnet...

    How was the 10mm measured, I could close mine with no cutting but it wasn't a great fit ie some interference. What's the offending part?

    Timing cover is what sticks out, 10mm at the largest part.

    The hole that permits the bonnet to fully close without touching any part of the motor is about 80mm front-back x 180mm wide.

    The support on the inside is cut about 5-10mm forwards of the hole, and about 60-70mm further aft of the hole (i.e. the "space inside" is greater than the hole).

    I think the raised portion in the bonnet that the R32 has is really attractive, maybe a slightly modified version of that would be the way if cutting doesn't work. I knew a guy who designed for Holden, he showed me how a small change could make a nice car really ugly so choose wisely. If you're good with Photoshop spend the time to make it right.

    Heh, I would probably have more luck modifying a car file from one of those speed/chase/turismo games.

    I'm still waiting to hear back from the prepreg and glass vendors; I will get back in touch with them in the new year.

    Merry Xmas and a happy new year to all.

    Cheers,

    SW

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