TKUSHI_ER34
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Posts posted by TKUSHI_ER34
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So the day came on Saturday finally to kick the car over, Was shitting myself to say the least.
Triple checked everything and gave it a whirl. Started right up (Currently on stock AFM and injectors for startup) was super happy to see no leaks from the oil relocator or fuel/ water/ oil lines.
Buuuuuut.
Found a few things I needed to change
1. Timing belt over tensioned
2. Have a pretty loud tick coming from the intake side, I fear the lash may need adjusting.
3. Tried to get a decent idle but I'm terrible with diagnostic crap, tried to reset IACV and found the adjustment was already wound all the in. Tried to relearn the TPS, back probed the tps and rotated it until it was at 0.5v and then did the whole on and off ignition scenario i read on here. No real change and without access to nistune software to see if it's activating closed throttle flag or anyone close buy that is familiar with this stuff I'm not sure what else I can do.
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On 08/10/2019 at 1:48 PM, Looney_Head said:
awesome looking build
Thanks mate, still a ways from where the goal is but it's coming along nicely. Hopefully have it tuned during November ?
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Luckily my best mates girlfriend is a spray painter and she knocked these out for me in no time. I also ordered a clear cam cover in 5hthat time as I didn't want to paint the ugly factory one with all the excess gussets and rubbing.
Couldn't wait to chuck them on the car and got straight to it once I got them back
The paint is a basecoat pearl so most of the time when I take pictures of them it always looks a different shade
My birthday happened during this time and received some gifts from friends and family
Scored a factory boot lip from a friend a roofwing from my parents and an aeroflow catch can as well. Couldn't find a suitable place that I liked. Which drifting being the main focus of this car on track I deleted the ABS and placed the catch can there.
While waiting for my FFP to arrive, I borrowed a Friends so I could send off for fabrication for the cooler. After being screwed around for weeks I was suggest curts performance fab. He came to my house and tacked some pipes together and then went home and finished them off.
I ordered a HKS filter from streeter which arrived just In time for curt. We decided on 3inch in and out With a 4inch intake. Originally I was going to go with a Z32 maf but considering the intake was now 4inch and speaking with my tuner he suggested a HPX slot MAF upgrade from nistune.
And this was the end result from curt.
Slot maf bung welded on as well as port for boost source as the ATR didn't have one in the housing. And a port for the IACV before the throttle body.
Got the pipes back from curt and installed them. While he was doing that I started on the battery relocation (nothing to interesting just your usual boot install) just utilized a narva circuit breaker to tie it all together.
While I had my friends plenum I noticed the iacv wasn't going to fit with the oil heart exchanger. So ordered a TAARKS relocator And the new MAF
Also ordered some 1000cc bosch injectors and a turbosmart FPR800. I hated the look of the factory injector loom and i had to change the injector plugs anyways I unpinned the OEM Nissan plug and rewired the entire loom from scratch.
Around this time my plenum turned up and started plumbing the oil filter relocator and doing away with the excess coolant lines from the heat exchanger.
Currently undertook the install of the TAARKS kit this weekend passed so don't have much pics of that just yet. I accidentally pulled the wiring out of one of my knock sensors so had to order a new plug and pin from NZEFI. Once that arrives I'll get some pics of that setup
Here is currently how the engine bay looks as if Sunday
Cheers for reading for now. ? sorry for the massive spam
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Now that we were heading in a good direction I could start ordering little parts to plumb the ATR and clean up some clutter.
Ordered some fittings and line and got to work
while on the hunt for parts I came across JL design fab who does these very nice radiator mounts, so I grabbed some of them and he supplied new rubbers as well
after doing some more chatting with my tuner about power goals and use of the car i decided I needed to go FMIC. Trying to stick to some sort of budget I picked up a cheap ebay kit from empire performance online.
not the most amazing kit in the world but was overall happy with it.
Goto trimming the front bumper which I was super scared about having to cut the factory aero kit but managed to only have to trim the bumper itself without touching the type M lip
Next up was cutting the hole for the intake cooler pipe, I proscratinated about it for weeks as I didn't want to make a butchery of it. I left this for several weeks while I decided what to do.
Around the same time I had a friend doing a FFP install, I avoided the idea of going FFP due to wanting the car back and lack of money.
One thing lead to another and I ended up ordering a FFP ??
So I sold the piping that the kit came with and used that money in the form of some paint
After racking my brain on what color to paint the covers I decided on this color by a little Australia company called DNA paints here in Victoria
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After speaking with some fabricators and costs. I decided to leave this idea until I buy a new hotside setup as I'm still running stock manifold and the ATR is internally gated.
While the car was apart I did the reasonable thing to do and replace the timing belt and the rest of essentials
Ordered an N1 oil pump and some billet spline gears, water pump, all front seals, and tensioners and pulleys.
was happy with the health of some major parts now and starting putting things back together. Hoping to have the car back soon....
I used a sharpening block and a bullshit amount of effort and managed to get the block to how I want it (thanks to Mitch from matouuks for the idea) so me and my best mate installed the nitto Head gasket and ARP2000 and put the head back on finally
was pretty happy with progress and thought I might actually have my car back soon. (We're a fair way past my original 2 week prediction ?)
Now that the head was back on I started putting the hot side back on. Keen to see how the ATR looked, I have the housing a lick paint in high heat black as well as the manifold.
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⚠️⚠️WARNING HUUUUGE UPDATE... ⚠️⚠️
Shit where do I even start, been very quiet due to going through a massive rebuild.
Not long after making this topic I had a head gasket failure on the dyno, pushed water out of number 6 ?
Original plan was to clean the block and deck the head and throw some studs and a decent head gasket in it and call it a day..... didn't really turn out that way haha
First thing first was to check the damage
First up was pulling the intake manifold, never undertaken this on an RB25 before. Don't think I'll ever want to again haha
This was spark plug #5 On the right and #6 on the left
Here we have the head gasket as you can see disintegrated on cyl6
So at this stage I was still planning on just doing a gasket change and clean and having the car back on the road within 2 weeks max. This is where things got a little out of hand.
Ordered the headstuds and gasket, while doing so I was talked into having the head reco'd by a friend who works predominately with RB'S.
Just went about ordering some new stem seals and springs/retainers/guides with supertech.
Head came back all freshened up with all new parts and tested, while It was away I had a friend weld on some breathers for catch can setup. Welded from the inside for a cleaner look.
After pulling off the turbo I noticed that the fins on the back of the compressor wheel were all chipped and I had some in an out shaft play, I got in contact with tao at hypergear to possibly have it upgraded and highflowed. While in conversation with a friend about my turbo situation he mentioned that he had a hypergear turbo laying around that had little to no use.
Scored this ATR43 G3 early gen for $200
Had it looked over and was given the all clear that it's in top condition internally. So plans started to change a little at this point, planned to go external gate So I purchased this tial 44mm wastegate from EFI solutions.
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7 hours ago, jmknights93 said:
Boost sensor for your cluster gauge.
Cheers haha most definitely need that ??
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Currently doing a FFP install and locating necessary points of vacuum like FPR, brake booster, boost pressure sensor etc etc
Noticed this little black thing next to the booster that has a Vac line and some connectors
Wondering if anyone can enlighten me on what it is, what it does and do I need hook the vac up or can I cap it off
Cheers ??✌
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13 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:
I like the look of the 4 door R34. Those wheels not to my taste though...
The wheels are horrendous haha. Not my choice by any means
will be replaced on the ASAP
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Thought i should post in here instead of my newbie introduction haha
Picked up this 1998 ER34 skyline a few weeks ago, loving it at the moment.
SPECS:
RB25DET NEO
109,XXXKm
AUTO
3inch XFORCE Catback
Cusco zero coilovers
HKS AVC6 boost controller
splitfire coilpacks
no name brand 17’s
CONS:
1. Overboosting atm (haven’t installed HKS AVC6 yet )
2. It’s auto hahaha
3. Yellowed/faded xenon headlight (FIXED 01/04/2019)
will be updating periodically as I work on this old girl
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Alrighty little update.
Havent driven the car for a few days purely out of fear of this overboosting issue. Purchased a near new HKS EVC6 boost controller. Will be installing that this weekend.
I think I figured out my oil temp issue. This is just a stab in the dark but after having the car sitting all night. Especially in this chilly Victorian weather I’m assuming my oil temp shouldn’t be around the 80 degree mark on first start up? Haha... I’ve never really taken notice of it until this morning when I got up for work at 3am and it was 9 degrees out side. So my theory is that my oil temp is reading 10-15 degrees to high?
Ordered some splitfires which have arrived so plans for this weekend is to do the oil change finally, Gap the plugs lower, install the coil packs and install the HKS AVC6 and then see where we end up after that.
fingers crossed ? we have a good result afterwards. For now the GTIR will be on daily duties
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Been searching and searching relentlessly but can’t find any info on stock plumbing for this. It’s still boost 14psi or so. Just staying out of it atm until it’s sorted.
Removed the pushrod on the gate flapper and it moves freely. Unsure if normal but almost impossible to move the push rod by hand.
At this stage I’m guessing something vac line wise is backwards or the solenoid is dead?
Thinking of finding another stock wastegate and maybe solenoid.
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1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:
The standard mod for standard GTRs was to remove a little restrictor from one of the boost hoses. Instant 14 psi IIRC. Shouldn't qualify as "overboost" but should be enough to max the gauge. It's also easily enough boost to show up a weak ignition system.
Yeah I’ve heard of that trick as well which could be the issue. Just spoke to a mate of mine who works for race pace and he said to take off my heat shield and make sure the actuator push rod isn’t getting stuck or fouled.
Will gap my plugs down again tonight and see how she’s goes.
Someone said get it tuned, but I don’t want to do that until I can afford to buy a manifold for the 3076 GTX I have, and obviously buy injectors/nistune. Would like to do the tune once when I have all the supporting parts ready
cheers for the help guys ????
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So still getting a little bit of popping, which I have no realised the car looks as though it’s overboosting. Looked up how the stock boost gauge works and mine goes to Max every time.
Everything is stock boost related. So unsure what could be causing it (should be running stock boost).
Top vac line is going to intake pipe, bottom hose going to factory T piece
Bottom vac line going to wastegate
middle hose going to compressor housing.. how is it making so much boost of this stock setup?
As mentioned mods are turbosmart BOV
3inch xforce catback, which I have just realised they have gutted the cat as well. Other then that this thing is dead stock engine wise
any ideas? Done heaps of searching but everyone seems to be modified when having this issue. Not completely stock like mine
scared to get on boost because i don’t want to break a turbo wheel or possibly Lean this thing out
cheers everyone ☺️☺️
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Alrighty, so just got done with the fuel filter, wanted to do it earlier but didn’t finish work till 11pm.
The crap that was inside the fuel filter is atrocious, put the new one in and fired it up, took the car for a drive and gave her a hiding and didn’t miss once *winning*
will do the oil change over the weekend, and see if this 10w40 full synth makes any difference to oil Temps and oil pressure. If not I’ll go from there and work something out
Thanks for the info GTSBOY, I’ll speak to my tuner and get the ball rolling ☺️
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Should probably post some photos of the car hahaha *idiot*
-1998 r34 sedan
-3inch xforce catback
-turbo smart dual port recirculating BOV
-cusco zero coilovers
-some no name brand 17’s haha
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Hello everybody ☺️
First time skyline owner, but owned plenty of other imports e.g GTIR, 180sx, s13,1jz Cressida.
Finally after years of wanting one I purchased a basic ER34 4 door RB25det NEO auto. Funnily enough I’ve been around SAU for almost 10 years ago when I purchased my first car (4age ke70) from back in the day hanging out at fountain plaza in erina on a Thursday night with some old school members. Haha
since moved to Melbourne a few years ago.
The new car is going great but I do have a few little questions and issues that I want to resolve ASAP.
1. My oil temp seems to be quite high (actually unsure tbh) I took this picture this morning after my 25min commute up the Monash, I purposely tried to keep it out of boost to see how the temp ended up. Just wondering if that is normal or nah? Water temp seems fine. Unsure of cars history I grabbed some nulon full synthetic 10w40 and a filter to see if any changes occur
2. The second issue I have so far is the car pops on hard acceleration as in WOT, being around RB’s enough I’m well aware of the coil packs and loom being an issue. Will eventually order spitfires. I changed the plugs the other day and gapped to 1.1 car is only running stock boost and solenoid. Grabbed a fuel filter this morning and will change that tonight as well while I wait for the new pump I ordered to arrive.
Glad to be here and finally call myself a skyline owner
cheers Lucas
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R34 manual conversion wiring
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
This is pretty much where I'm at, this is absolutely doing my head in. Blowing fuses left right and centre.
R34 auto loom, and have the plugs off a R33 manual loom.
Haven't managed to get reverse lights or anything at this stage. Just blowing fuses.
Currently running a link g4x PNP ecu
If anyone has pictures that could enlighten me on how this should be setup, figured someone would have updated a write up by 2022 by now haha