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elohim_imanu

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Posts posted by elohim_imanu

  1. Actually I mean this one, after a check. (the 90 was for the diff) 🤣

    SCA_342312_hi-res.thumb.jpg.084f040506b98b1720ab008d08b470ec.jpg

    Is this bad?

    I was surprised to see the amount of tiny steel shavings when I drained it after about 150ks, due to the clutch balance problem. Since I do not race and I am not pumping high HP through, it is this oil a good choice and how often do I change it? We are only talking a few thousand ks a year.

     

  2. Or to be a bit more specific. The 5 speed gearboxes that are built to take the RB25DET (turbo engines). The R33 GTS-T and the R34 GT-T came with them. Also the 300ZX Twin turbos, came with a similar gearset. A modern version is the CD009, which comes on the 350-370Z, 6 speed. They physically look stronger better made with extra gussets etc.

    Basically these are the go to gearbox for people wanting a reliable gearbox for high HP applications. 

    By the way I had mine checked by a local mechanic and he thinks it is fine, just needs some more miles to be clocked up on it.

    The vibration was due the the Nismo pressure plate being out of balance. Had to pull it out and get it balanced along with the brand new billet steel flywheel. I would have thought they should be good from the factory already.

  3. On 13/08/2021 at 12:36 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

    From what I remember the auto maps have additional compensation timing for the car being in gear, etc.

     

    Yes, I do notice that when in gear the idle raises, cause I plumbed up the neutral switch. That is when I feel the miss/vibration the most. Anything else that I should be concerned about? But I am going to clean the IACV.

  4. So every since the conversion if have a miss-fire. It seems to happen in the rev range of 1100-2500.

    The car was sitting for a few months during the conversion.

    1. Changed the plugs

    2. Coil packs are brand new

    3. Unplugged coils one by one, they all display similar behaviour  

    4. Sprayed all over vacuum hoses etc with brake cleaner, can't hear anything change

    5. Vacuum tested when running, looks normal.

    6. Unplugged the O2 sensor, no change. ecutalk is seeing voltage. 

    7. Swapped CAS with another good one

    8. Resistance check the coil loom

    9. The battery was disconnected for weeks during the conversion, so the ECU has been reset.

    I have a consult (ecutalk), but I don't really know what to look for, other than error codes, which there are none.

    I am running out of ideas.

    PS It is a N/A

  5. So every since the conversion if have a miss-fire. It seems to happen in the rev range of 1100-2500.

    The car was sitting for a few months during the conversion.

    1. Changed the plugs

    2. Coil packs are brand new

    3. Unplugged coils one by one, nothing seems to change 

    4. Sprayed all over vacuum hoses etc with brake cleaner, can't hear anything

    5. Vacuum tested when running, looks normal.

    6. Unplugged the O2 sensor, no change. ecutalk is seeing voltage. 

    I have a consult (ecutalk), but I don't really know what to look for, other than error codes, which there are none.

     

    image0 (1).jpeg

  6. Just put in a brand new RB25DET big box, auto conversion.

    Last time I drove manual was my 260Z, 15 years ago. But this box seems a bit notchy shifting up. Are new gearboxes like this? Do they have a break in period?

    Also noticed a vibration on the clutch pedal when shifting close to red line. It is R34 box, with a pull clutch. I installed a new Nismo sports clutch with a slightly lighter flywheel.

    I am running Penrite Pro Gear 75W-90.

    Cheers

  7. On 09/09/2008 at 9:09 AM, Waza_GTR said:

    If you are starting from empty after changing the brakes you have to do the fronts first, then the rears , then the fronts again. This is because you need to get pressure in the fronts to open the proportioning valve to the rears.

    This is correct. 

  8. On 17/09/2014 at 11:31 AM, iruvyouskyrine said:

    I understand what you are saying but it requires lots of effort to try and move the clutch fork, and I heard it engage on the fingers of the clutch cover. I will try and have a look but I really think that everything inside the clutch is fine, just a gut feeling.

    Even though the slave is moving it feels like I have replaced the pedal with a wet fish, that's about how much feel the pedal has.

    Did you get this sorted? I am in the same position. R34 bigbox with a pull clutch and a R33 master. Pedal basically drops to the almost the floor then starts working. Does not return under its own power.

    This is a new build as such, conversion from auto. I am pretty sure I have bleed the master and slave, at least I can not get any more air out.

  9. I ended up buying this one.

    https://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan-oem-5-speed-manual-transmission-er34-rb25det.html

    I have just taken delivery of it. With the current exchange rates, shipping, and GST, it came to about $4k NZD. Shipping took only 14 days once they had it in stock. Delivered to my door. But I did have to wait about two months for it be in stock. It was fine, as that was roughly the date specified when I ordered. What you see on the website is exactly what you get, pull clutch setup. OEM parts to convert come to about $330 NZD. But I got a Nismo pull clutch to go with it (on top of the $4k)

     

    MicrosoftTeams-image.png

  10. 34 minutes ago, SteveL said:

    According to the parts lists I just looked at they all use the same clutch master (R32, R33, R34 GTR's) regardless of push or pull clutch, and the R33 does have booster.    That makes sense because the clutch master doesn't know or care about push or pull and any differences in travel, etc can be accounted for at the throw-out mechanism.    PN is C0610-05U00, superceded by 31610-05U01

    Thanks. I was not sure if there was some sort of fluid transfer difference.

  11. 9 minutes ago, SteveL said:

    Push type clutch has been around since forever.   Simple and relatively cheap to produce.    Pull type not so much in terms of design and application, but the pull type has advantages in terms of operating mechanism leverage so can give comparatively lighter pedal loads at increased plate pressure.

    The weak points of the Nissan push type clutch mechanism (used in early GTR's, etc) are the clutch throw-out fork and pivot ball.       The design hasn't changed much since at least the 240z and is OK for stock or mildly up-rated applications, but increasing pressure plate ratings to competition levels can and has lead to failure of the clutch fork (fatigue cracking) and/or the pivot ball.     The BRE 240Z's were probably some of the first to identify the problem in competition in the US.

    Most people will probably never have a problem.   It really only appears at high pressure plate levels.     I suffered a broken clutch fork in the Z at PI, and later a stripped friction plate on a supposed 'performance' clutch at the same venue....but that's another story.

    NISMO make an uprated pivot ball for many Nissan's that use the push type clutch.   Not sure about the fork, but I'm sure that there's something 'billet' out there (and the crowd goes wild over the word 'billet'.....).

    Great answer, never had that problem on my 260Z though. Must have been lucky. I had wondered why Nismo made that pivot ball. I think I am going to just get the Nismo pull clutch and keep the box standard. 

    Anybody know if there is a difference between the R34 and R33 master cylinder. Do I need a R34 type as the slave will be a pull type. Will a R34 fit my R33 or will the stock R33 work anyway? I guess the R33 GTR is pull, but doesn't have some sort of booster?

  12. Unbelievably, I can not seem to find much about this subject on SAU. Maybe my search button is broke. I have have done a fair bit of Googling, but get mixed messages. You would think that since most GTRs have them and Nissan moved to them with the R34GTT, that it would be superior, but I see a lot of people converting, I can only presume because the market seems to be more varied. 

    I am getting my hands on a new R34 big box which comes with a pull clutch setup. I am interested in peoples opinions of the pull system and if I should convert it to a push ($300).

    The application is street driven R33 ~350HP, which I don't intend to drift or do burn outs.

    Seems that the options for pull clutches are limited and they generally are more expensive. Is that just because they are more beefy? Considering an Organic Nismo Sport pull Clutch which will cost me about $800.

    Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience.

  13. It's an interesting find and thanks for sharing. I also could not believe the size, when I first replaced mine. Looks like something from a Mazda Demio. Tempting to try it.

    But looking at the seal diameter the Z145A, which, according to Supercheap is the correct one, is 63mm and the Z115 is 70mm. I have not measured the mating face, but presume you have and their is no chance of it extruding out.

    I wonder if modern filters are made in such a way that there is more surface area, that is how they reduce the size. I see the K&N one is even smaller.

  14. 8 hours ago, BK said:

    You can look where I told you look and it'll probably be $500 - $1000 cheaper delivered. Nengun is under $3k. More to the point is why do you feel you need another box again ? You have an RB20DET box yeah ?

    I am an idiot. I thought I had checked Nengun. Thanks for the reminder. You know when you have like 50 tabs open.

    They are much cheaper. NZD $ 2,502 for the box about there is an option for $795 shipping. Now I am seriously looking at this. The best I can find locally is a RWD converted R33 GTR gearbox for $3,000. That is what I mean by stupid prices.

    My next question, which I have asked of Nengun, is what other parts do I need to add it. I think it comes with a pull fork and thrust bearing. No speed sensor, clutch, slave, shifter. Looking at the pic on the site the part number 32010-AA520. 

    https://www.nengun.com/oem/nissan/32010-aa520

    It looks like I need to source the brackets and hoses etc. 

    I am doing an auto conversion. I was looking at putting in a 20DET GB, but it seems that is only going to end in pain.

    page_320_C_001.png

  15. On 25/01/2021 at 1:31 PM, BK said:

    Just Jap, JDM garage etc. The boxes from somewhere like Amayama or Nengun are way under $3k AUD new but you gotta ship it and duty, taxes. If I were to be getting a new one I'd be talking to Darron at Just Jap.

    Forget the RB20 box idea

    So I heeded your advise and hunted down the only new one I could find. That was at Alpha Omega Racing. R34 RB25DET Gearbox Price: $3,376.00 I have to admit that it is not a terrible price. But I was quoted $1,326 to ship to NZ. Total of $4,702. I only paid $3,000 for the car, so yeah.

  16. On 08/02/2021 at 9:26 PM, Rb30det r32 said:

    Hi mate I’m just about to do this to my r32 using the 08 d22 nav box (yd25ddti box)with an r32 rb26 bell housing gearbox was $900 and the bell housing was $400. But it is shorter by about 30mm so driveshaft needs some work but for a $4500 gearbox it’s good money spent to get a big box and something that is just over 12 years old. 20det boxes are over priced for used 30year old parts but will let you now how it all goes as I’m doing it.

    Hi, Do you know what you have to do for this to work. Like do you have to disassemble the whole gearbox, to get the input shaft out and machine it?

  17. 55 minutes ago, Rb30det r32 said:

    Hi mate I’m just about to do this to my r32 using the 08 d22 nav box (yd25ddti box)with an r32 rb26 bell housing gearbox was $900 and the bell housing was $400. But it is shorter by about 30mm so driveshaft needs some work but for a $4500 gearbox it’s good money spent to get a big box and something that is just over 12 years old. 20det boxes are over priced for used 30year old parts but will let you now how it all goes as I’m doing it.

    Hi. Very interested to see how it goes. Keep us posted.

    cheers

  18. 1 minute ago, Duncan said:

    Some pretty harsh opinions of a gearbox that regularly takes double and often triple the power it was engineered for.

    3.5k is a lot of money for a gearbox for a near stock engine and it's great to see cheaper options being looked into. Even the 350z box itself might be cheap but trans adapter etc mean total cost isn't.

    Exactly. There is not much in between. R33 GTR gearboxes are cheaper, about $2k. But a lot of mucking around making them 2wd. Even a 350 2nd had box is $3k. I know this has been thrashed around here a lot, but is the 20det good for up to 300hp? They are about $1k. Like I said, don't intend to thrash it.

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