elohim_imanu
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Posts posted by elohim_imanu
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I am trying to chase what feels like too much backlash. I have had the diff professionally adjusted with new bearings, the gearbox is brand new, as is the Nismo sports clutch. New subframe bushes, new shocks, and diff mount bushes. The I am pretty sure it is not the drive shaft, the U joints are sweet. But when I go off and back on the accelerator and with some gear changes, the drive train clunks.
Is this below movement normal? I can see a little rotational movement with the half shafts. The wheels are on the ground.
I have manual converted the car, changing diff, drive shaft and axels also.
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Yes, but this was out of balance brand new.
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It was indeed the pressure plate, which needed balancing. Nismo!!
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Most of my play is in the half shafts. What do people do about this? OEM are pretty expensive. Like $1,600 each.
I can rotate a wheel about 15-20mm at the outside of the tyre, is this too much?
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Something to keep an eye out for is that there is a mounting hole for the painted light cover. There is a rubber grommet under the mount where the screw is. I found one of my lights leaking through this hole. So I used the above mentioned mastic to seal both side of the mount.
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Actually I mean this one, after a check. (the 90 was for the diff) 🤣
Is this bad?
I was surprised to see the amount of tiny steel shavings when I drained it after about 150ks, due to the clutch balance problem. Since I do not race and I am not pumping high HP through, it is this oil a good choice and how often do I change it? We are only talking a few thousand ks a year.
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I am running Penrite 85-90 full synthetic.
He reckoned I should not play with difference oils. As I saw someone comment that they think the synchro's in these like mineral oil more.
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Or to be a bit more specific. The 5 speed gearboxes that are built to take the RB25DET (turbo engines). The R33 GTS-T and the R34 GT-T came with them. Also the 300ZX Twin turbos, came with a similar gearset. A modern version is the CD009, which comes on the 350-370Z, 6 speed. They physically look stronger better made with extra gussets etc.
Basically these are the go to gearbox for people wanting a reliable gearbox for high HP applications.
By the way I had mine checked by a local mechanic and he thinks it is fine, just needs some more miles to be clocked up on it.
The vibration was due the the Nismo pressure plate being out of balance. Had to pull it out and get it balanced along with the brand new billet steel flywheel. I would have thought they should be good from the factory already.
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On 13/08/2021 at 12:36 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
From what I remember the auto maps have additional compensation timing for the car being in gear, etc.
Yes, I do notice that when in gear the idle raises, cause I plumbed up the neutral switch. That is when I feel the miss/vibration the most. Anything else that I should be concerned about? But I am going to clean the IACV.
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On 13/08/2021 at 11:35 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Are you running the auto ECU? if so, install the manual one.
Yeh, I thought about that. What difference will it make?
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Thanks for the feedback guys.
Yeh, the timing does jump to 15-20, when you take it up past idle. This was taken on idle.
It does have a high idle sometimes. GTSBoy are you saying that IACV is faulty then? Any way to test this?
Cheers
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Cleaned the AFM and throttle body.
Still no change.
I am starting to wonder if the flywheel or pressure plate is out of balance and what I am feeling is a vibration. It does increase with revs and there is a small vibration on the clutch pedal in the high revs.
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Thanks. I will clean it and check the wiring. But I have not changed it during the conversion. I think it is OG. I wish I had a boost solenoid. NA.
It does rev right out. It is just missing a bit and feels like a vibration in the lower revs.
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So every since the conversion if have a miss-fire. It seems to happen in the rev range of 1100-2500.
The car was sitting for a few months during the conversion.
1. Changed the plugs
2. Coil packs are brand new
3. Unplugged coils one by one, they all display similar behaviour
4. Sprayed all over vacuum hoses etc with brake cleaner, can't hear anything change
5. Vacuum tested when running, looks normal.
6. Unplugged the O2 sensor, no change. ecutalk is seeing voltage.
7. Swapped CAS with another good one
8. Resistance check the coil loom
9. The battery was disconnected for weeks during the conversion, so the ECU has been reset.
I have a consult (ecutalk), but I don't really know what to look for, other than error codes, which there are none.
I am running out of ideas.
PS It is a N/A
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So every since the conversion if have a miss-fire. It seems to happen in the rev range of 1100-2500.
The car was sitting for a few months during the conversion.
1. Changed the plugs
2. Coil packs are brand new
3. Unplugged coils one by one, nothing seems to change
4. Sprayed all over vacuum hoses etc with brake cleaner, can't hear anything
5. Vacuum tested when running, looks normal.
6. Unplugged the O2 sensor, no change. ecutalk is seeing voltage.
I have a consult (ecutalk), but I don't really know what to look for, other than error codes, which there are none.
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Just put in a brand new RB25DET big box, auto conversion.
Last time I drove manual was my 260Z, 15 years ago. But this box seems a bit notchy shifting up. Are new gearboxes like this? Do they have a break in period?
Also noticed a vibration on the clutch pedal when shifting close to red line. It is R34 box, with a pull clutch. I installed a new Nismo sports clutch with a slightly lighter flywheel.
I am running Penrite Pro Gear 75W-90.
Cheers
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On 09/09/2008 at 9:09 AM, Waza_GTR said:
If you are starting from empty after changing the brakes you have to do the fronts first, then the rears , then the fronts again. This is because you need to get pressure in the fronts to open the proportioning valve to the rears.
This is correct.
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On 17/09/2014 at 11:31 AM, iruvyouskyrine said:
I understand what you are saying but it requires lots of effort to try and move the clutch fork, and I heard it engage on the fingers of the clutch cover. I will try and have a look but I really think that everything inside the clutch is fine, just a gut feeling.
Even though the slave is moving it feels like I have replaced the pedal with a wet fish, that's about how much feel the pedal has.
Did you get this sorted? I am in the same position. R34 bigbox with a pull clutch and a R33 master. Pedal basically drops to the almost the floor then starts working. Does not return under its own power.
This is a new build as such, conversion from auto. I am pretty sure I have bleed the master and slave, at least I can not get any more air out.
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This is interesting, suggests there is a correct orientation for the flywheel. To which the dowel will assist in getting it right. So as long as you align the dowel holes should be all good, right?
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2009/08/dowel-pin-alignment-caution-for-nissan-engines/
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I ended up buying this one.
https://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan-oem-5-speed-manual-transmission-er34-rb25det.html
I have just taken delivery of it. With the current exchange rates, shipping, and GST, it came to about $4k NZD. Shipping took only 14 days once they had it in stock. Delivered to my door. But I did have to wait about two months for it be in stock. It was fine, as that was roughly the date specified when I ordered. What you see on the website is exactly what you get, pull clutch setup. OEM parts to convert come to about $330 NZD. But I got a Nismo pull clutch to go with it (on top of the $4k)
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Is there a difference between a push and pull clutch flywheel? I am looking for one to match a R34 big box that is original, ie pull. Putting in a Nismo sports single plate organic.
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34 minutes ago, SteveL said:
According to the parts lists I just looked at they all use the same clutch master (R32, R33, R34 GTR's) regardless of push or pull clutch, and the R33 does have booster. That makes sense because the clutch master doesn't know or care about push or pull and any differences in travel, etc can be accounted for at the throw-out mechanism. PN is C0610-05U00, superceded by 31610-05U01
Thanks. I was not sure if there was some sort of fluid transfer difference.
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9 minutes ago, SteveL said:
Push type clutch has been around since forever. Simple and relatively cheap to produce. Pull type not so much in terms of design and application, but the pull type has advantages in terms of operating mechanism leverage so can give comparatively lighter pedal loads at increased plate pressure.
The weak points of the Nissan push type clutch mechanism (used in early GTR's, etc) are the clutch throw-out fork and pivot ball. The design hasn't changed much since at least the 240z and is OK for stock or mildly up-rated applications, but increasing pressure plate ratings to competition levels can and has lead to failure of the clutch fork (fatigue cracking) and/or the pivot ball. The BRE 240Z's were probably some of the first to identify the problem in competition in the US.
Most people will probably never have a problem. It really only appears at high pressure plate levels. I suffered a broken clutch fork in the Z at PI, and later a stripped friction plate on a supposed 'performance' clutch at the same venue....but that's another story.
NISMO make an uprated pivot ball for many Nissan's that use the push type clutch. Not sure about the fork, but I'm sure that there's something 'billet' out there (and the crowd goes wild over the word 'billet'.....).
Great answer, never had that problem on my 260Z though. Must have been lucky. I had wondered why Nismo made that pivot ball. I think I am going to just get the Nismo pull clutch and keep the box standard.
Anybody know if there is a difference between the R34 and R33 master cylinder. Do I need a R34 type as the slave will be a pull type. Will a R34 fit my R33 or will the stock R33 work anyway? I guess the R33 GTR is pull, but doesn't have some sort of booster?
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Unbelievably, I can not seem to find much about this subject on SAU. Maybe my search button is broke. I have have done a fair bit of Googling, but get mixed messages. You would think that since most GTRs have them and Nissan moved to them with the R34GTT, that it would be superior, but I see a lot of people converting, I can only presume because the market seems to be more varied.
I am getting my hands on a new R34 big box which comes with a pull clutch setup. I am interested in peoples opinions of the pull system and if I should convert it to a push ($300).
The application is street driven R33 ~350HP, which I don't intend to drift or do burn outs.
Seems that the options for pull clutches are limited and they generally are more expensive. Is that just because they are more beefy? Considering an Organic Nismo Sport pull Clutch which will cost me about $800.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience.
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Is this too much movement - Drive train play
in Drivetrain and transmission
Posted
Yes, that is what I was thinking (all adding up), but good to know I am not the only one and it is not abnormal, as such. Just annoying as anything and I wonder what it is doing for my gearbox. I tried buying some band new heavy duty half shafts, but they had more play in them than mine.