mattah
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Posts posted by mattah
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New, never driven or even sat on - just been pulled from rims as project went bye bye..
These have a treadwear rating of 40, ie super sticky.
$800 onoI'm in Perth but happy to ship.
SMS to 0429427936
Ta, Matt
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I'm going to bump this! Never really followed through with this.
Regas are still available. V70a tyres also.
Volk TE37s are available for $1k for the pair. Super rare size/colour.
Old phone number in the first post. PM me or get me on 0429427936.
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I can't edit my own post? Anyway WEDS and AMEs are sold.
TE37s dropped to $1300.
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Based in WA, but happy to arrange shipping to anywhere. Shipping from West to East is pretty cheap! (unlike the other way)
1. 4x Desmond Regamaster 17x9 +18 (GTR offset).
Should need no introduction, these are forged Russian beauties. Matte black, strong and light, one of the best track wheels you can get. These come mounted with brand new never driven on Kumho V70a semi slicks (255/40/17). Treadware rating of 40 (super super sticky PROPER semi slicks). Selling because I sold my Silvia track project and bought a Lotus. Needless to say these don't fit.
$2500 with tyres, or $1500 without, and will sell tyres for $1000.
2. 4x AME Tracer wheels f:17x8, r:17x9 (offsets are around +30-35 or so)
Huge chunk out of one of the fronts (might be repairable), but the rears are good and make fantastic drift wheels. Super super light.
Come with f**ked tyres. Take the lot for $200 pickup.
3. 2x Rays TE37 18x9 +10
Trademark magnesium blue in colour, with nice concave from the +10 offset. These are super rare.
$1500 and you can have the tyres on them too (ok tread depth - but will be a few years old)
4. 2x WEDS SA90 17x9 +20 (GTR offset)
A bit grubby but in perfect condition. Very lightweight and strong track wheels. No tyres.
$500
PM me or SMS please on 0401406three5three.
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Yeah they are good cars.
Sub 1 minute on the short track? Sub 1 minute on the long track is V8 supercar times.
Short track. I think my brother did a high 59, Pete Major had a few laps as well and managed a 58 from memory. Not amazing times, but it was pretty much straight off the boat.
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If you can find one at a good price, a track only FD is a great car. My brother was lucky to get one for around 10k with a big single turbo. Did sub 1 minute lap times at Wanneroo first time out, straight off the boat with only 260hp (maxing out the stock injectors) and the old tyres it had on it from Japan. Bigger injectors, better tyres, a retune and more seat time would see significantly faster laps.
Spending anything up to 10-15k on a Nissan I think you'd have trouble getting an R33 or even an S14 to match an S13. You can pick S13s up for absolute peanuts and most of the structural problems with them (rear suspension, jelly chassis) can be fixed very cheaply.
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You are going from KW to Buddy Club? Crazy talk! KW are ten times the shock that Buddy Club are.
Edit: buy these: http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/413976-kw-clubsport-coilovers-custom-drift-suspension-new-super-cheap.html
For 2.5k you could probably build a custom Bilstein setup also, but it's a lot of messing around.
I am serious btw, buy those KWs above.
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What I love best is the way they retain just enough of the stock OEM shock tower to be within the rules, and then don't even use them..
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Ahhh here we go:
• No Open Wheel vehicles, Clubman or Kit cars allowed, as determined by the Promoter.
Ultima is a kit car, therefore out. You could maybe make a case for the Dauer though, although the "Promoter" might not like it.
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Next step, Dauer 962.
Pretty sure they draw the line at tube frame chassis though, so the Ultima is out on that basis.
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There is a GTR that people are mad for not running. And its no Nissan
Not sure Ultimas and their like are legal even for pro class? Although the rules are so open to interpretation who knows.
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MX5s are cheap and have huge potential, with a perfectly balanced lightweight RWD chassis and wishbone suspension all around. Parts and upgrade paths are very sorted and understood, with plenty of stuff available out of the US.
On top of that the MX5 club in WA runs regular sprints/autokhanas at RAC Driving Centre, and track days at Barbs, with multiple classes depending upon how modified your car is.
It would almost certainly be the car to choose if you can get over the whole hairdresser's car prejudice.
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MX5s are cheap and have huge potential, with a perfectly balanced lightweight RWD chassis and wishbone suspension all around. Parts and upgrade paths are very sorted and understood, with plenty of stuff available out of the US. On top of that the MX5 club in WA runs regular sprints/autokhanas at RAC Driving Centre, and track days at Barbs, with multiple classes depending upon how modified your car is. It would almost certainly be the car to choose if you can get over the whole hairdresser's car prejudice.
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MX5s are cheap and have huge potential, with a perfectly balanced lightweight RWD chassis and wishbone suspension all around. Parts and upgrade paths are very sorted and understood, with plenty of stuff available out of the US. On top of that the MX5 club in WA runs regular sprints/autokhanas at RAC Driving Centre, and track days at Barbs, with multiple classes depending upon how modified your car is. It would almost certainly be the car to choose if you can get over the whole hairdresser's car prejudice.
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, but what else should i do . i have no limit want to remove as much weight as possible - goal as close to 900 kg as i can get ( i know thats bold )
Sell boat, buy S13.
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Chassis
• OEM strut towers must be retained and used.
• OEM floor must be retained.
• OEM firewall must be retained. Modifications to the firewall are allowed for roll cage, engine fitment, transmission fitment and wiring. All holes must be sealed. If the firewall is provisioned for to allow clearance for a different engine or allow gearbox/drive train fitment, all material must be replaced with the same thickness sheet metal as the factory material.
• The rear most part of the engine block may be no more than 2 inches rearward of the most forward point of the firewall, If the vehicle is rear engine, the front most part of the engine block may be no more than 2 inches forward of the most rear point of the firewall.
• Chassis rails may be modified for fitment issues, all chassis rail modifications must be submitted to the promoter for approval.
• Tube frame chassis extensions are NOT permitted
Can’t see how this is close to CAMS Sports Sedan Specs, yes some of the cars running would be able to run in Sports Sedan with some aero taken off. But far from Tube frame and mid mount motors.
The rules you have quoted are only for the Open class. In the Pro class there is no mention of disallowing tube frames and there is no mention of having to USE the strut towers (just that you have to keep them - I wonder how much of them you need to keep?). It has no mention of having to use the OEM suspension design at all (it explicitly states this in the Open class).
There is also no mention of needing to keep the OEM floor in the Pro class. From what I can read, it looks like the only things of the original chassis you need to keep are the strut towers and the firewall. You do need to get permission to modify the chassis rails, so presumably they expect you to keep those as well? They really do need to clarify the class rules a bit better, it's open to wild interpretation.
Good to see that it looks like Porsches (and Fezzas, Lambos etc) can at least now enter the Pro and Open classes.
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So let me get this right. You can now have tube frame cars, but Porsches are still not allowed?
The mind boggles.
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You will need money....and lots of it, owning an oil rig would be a good start.
Also you have been racing Karts since you were like six, right?
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serious suggestion is ae86 Corolla. Small agile etc. Left field suggestion is Aussie r31, skyline cheap to buy find parts for etc
Good cars, but drift tax is huge. MX5 would be the best choice.
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Escorts and old dattos are lots of things, but cheap and reliable they aint, if you want to belt them around a race track. Maybe 20 years ago, but there are plenty of better options for the budget conscious these days.
Agreed here.
S13 is almost certainly the best bang for buck track/club car around at the moment. You can pick up cars for next to nothing (I picked up a CA18DET licensed for well under $3k, and I've heard of cheaper cars than that), parts are *everywhere* (can even re-shell cheaply), and upgrade paths are fairly well known and supported. On top of that you get RWD, light weight, good handling, turbo engine below 2L (important for class racing), and a fairly nice looking coupe body.
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mmm like previous comments, buying those older cars for even an occasional track purpose is like having a time bomb.
first up even if the engines are still okay, and holds up, you will need new set of rotors/pads almost straightway after hitting the track. then tyres, fluids, cooling systems etc etc. gets a bit more expensive then you may think
Honestly all that stuff comes under consumables, and you budget for that regardless of if you buy an old car or a new one. Motorsport is never cheap.
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With a budget of $18k buy an S13 Silvia or R32 GTST... then you'll have money left to fix it up, mod it to your driving style or money to fix shit thats gonna break out on the race track.
This. An S13 with 10-15k of development in it will be faster and more fun than a stockish Evo 5 or R32 GTR.
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Also after alot of reading and researching i have decide to go with swift springs. from everything i have read they seems to be the top rated spring and come highly recommend from race teams in the uk. It also seems like you can get away with a higher spring rate with swift springs due to their design, so looks like i might be buying 4 pairs of springs (6, 7.5, 8 and 10)
Can you elaborate on this a bit more? I would think that a 6kg spring is a 6kg spring any day of the week. All you care about is the accuracy of the spring and how well it maintains that rate.
New Kumho V70a Semi Slicks, 255/40/17
in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Posted
Sold thanks.