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harambe34

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Posts posted by harambe34

  1. 56 minutes ago, Duncan said:

    Unfortunately, you really shouldn't drive or run it until it is reasonably bubble free.

    This might not help if you need to rolling again quickly, but you probably just need to give it some time (eg overnight). If you are trying to push frothed up fluid through it will never settle down.

    So; wait patiently eg overnight, start engine and slowly turn wheels lock to lock a few times, stop engine and wait patiently a few hours again

    Makes sense, will do mate. Thanks for the advice!

  2. 3 minutes ago, Duncan said:

    You're on the right track, try 20 more times :)

    Maybe jack up the front of the car to give the air a chance, but I think the power steering "cooler" near the radiator does have a upward loop that might trap air too.

    Thanks Duncan, I have probably turned it lock to lock more like 200 times now over the course of a few hours 😅

    When should I draw the line and take it to a shop?

  3. Hey guys, I am trying to bleed my power steering system, I mistakenly started the car with the power steering reservoir on its side and it drew air into the system.

    So far I have had the car on jack stands, turned the wheel lock to lock 20 or so times while topping up the fluid. Started the car for 10 seconds and stopped it numerous times to flush the pump and it is still foaming/ bubbling out the top. I have been waiting for the foaming to subside before priming it again by means of turning the wheels or starting the engine. I have repeated this maybe 10 times and it is still foaming over when I stop the engine. I can hear the fluid swishing and gurgling around when i turn the wheels.

    Has anyone got any advice? I am fairly certain there are no leaks as the level has always stayed constant... let me know what you think before I give up and take it to a shop.

    343580016_1645021262632281_3948804256625890667_n.jpg

  4. On 17/04/2023 at 6:06 PM, GTSBoy said:

    If I was anywhere near my car I'd go have a look.

    Anyway, that photo does align with the shape of the inlet pipe on the EPC data drawing, so I concur, it does come from the block. All good.

    And now that I am forced to squint down to 20/20 vision, I see that the outlet pipe is actually possible (and correct) to interpret as running backwards away from the turbo, and around the back to the point on the back of the inlet manifold plumbing that I originally posited as the source for the supply. So those two brackets on that pipe would be on the back of the head or thereabouts.

    Thanks mate, I ended up sorting it out.

  5. Hey guys, pulled my turbo off a few months ago for a highflow and i'm only now getting around to reinstalling it. I have a new braided line set up and just wanted to double check I have everything in the correct position before starting the car. Cheers legends

    Top of turbo - oil feed 

    Bottom of turbo - oil drain

    Drivers side of turbo- Water feed from back of block

    Passenger side of turbo - Water drain to block

  6. 4 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

    Is there something in particular you are wanting help with? 

    The only question I can see in your post is, has anyone used a raceworks catch can, but catch cans all pretty much work the same way and as RB's gunna RB, chances are we all have some form of catch can lol. 

    Hey mate just seeing if anyone can spot any issues with my set up before I install it. 

     

    And looking for a review on the catch can but another person posted it

  7. Hey guys, I am trying to figure out the plumbing on my vented catch can. I'll be honest it was a bit of a spontaneous purchase and I didn't think it through properly and should have bought a different one but oh well.

     

    My plan is to run an an12 barb on top where the vent to atmosphere filter used to be, and return that air to my inlet before the turbo. 

     

    I'll block one of the two inlets off and run a line from my rocker cover to catch can. 

     

    Also it doesn't seem like there is too many baffles inside? It's hard to see... has anyone had any experiences with these Raceworks catch cans? 

  8. 2 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

    Do you already have the injectors? 

    750cc injectors or 1000cc injectors will costs around the same money and both will be easy to tune. Why not pick up the 1000cc injectors to start with and save yourself the time and hassle in the future?

    I've found some Deatchwerks 1000cc injectors and Raceworks 1200cc injectors for $720. Is there such thing as too big with injectors? Will it still idle and drive properly?

  9. 1 hour ago, admS15 said:

    Alternatively, you could just highflow the stock turbo with bb option. Will still make your power target on p98 and capable of around 325rwkw on E85, be a little more responsive.

    I considered this but I thought for future proofing I should go the ATR43 with larger intake, even with the extra hassle to install it. I can always change the injectors out later 

    • Like 1
  10. Hey guys, just after some feedback on these modifications. I am still in the planning stages for my build, I am aiming for 250-270kw in my 98 R34 GTT with 90,000km on it.

    -Hypergear ATR43 0.63 rear housing internally gated with bush bearing 
    -340L/H fuel pump
    -750cc injectors
    -Spitfire coilpacks 
    -3" turbo back exhaust/ hi flow cat
    -3" intake pipe
    -Nistune ECU

    -Will the 0.63 rear housing be too small?

    -Is it worth the extra $400 for a ball bearing over a journal bearing ? I'd rather put the money towards a custom intake/ exhaust 


    Thanks legends 

  11. On 10/02/2020 at 11:36 PM, 20thousandRPM said:

    This cannot be possibly sustainable right? I mean it has to burst like Bitcoin... At this stage US customers can only import 1995 R33 GTRs and earlier. There is still 1996-2002 left! Are we going to see prices go even higher? At some stage the market has to level out. I am seeing R34 GTRs priced more than R35 ones now. It's just madness.

    How's the Bitcoin burst going now? 

    • Like 2
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