Nema

Hi guys, Need some help, I've changed my clutch recently and installed Nismo single coppermix. I went for a test drive last weekend and noticed that gearbox is uncomfortably hot. What can cause that? Gearbox shifts perfectly with no issues or noises I've checked brakes as they were swapped as well, seems to be ok Gearbox oil is Redline mt90 3.5-3.8 litres Would appreciate any suggestions I just want to try and eliminate any possible causes before I take gearbox off Also, cant smell anything burning, clutch behaves a little unusual, but that might just be new clutch I need to get used to. I can only think of slipping clutch, I've noticed that I have to keep higher RPM for it to engage properly. Thanks, Alex

Thanks guys, found 1 on ebay.

Hi guys, Hopefully someone can help me. I need new dipstick tube for r34. Apparently they are out of production and I couldn't find any online. So, is it possible to use RB26 or SR tube and dipstick and still read correctly? Or perhaps someone has one and willing to sell Thanks

Hi guys, need some help identifying fuel pump connector. Its R34 stock nissan harness, connector goes from fuel pump to lid.

Hi guys, Just a small update. Haven't done much over last month, was mainly ordering parts. So, finally all engine parts are sorted, should receive them in a week or so, few items were out of stock and were ordered in. So, everything but crankshaft will be new. Went with CP/Spool combo and complete ferrea head with kelford cams. Meanwhile, I've installed new coilovers, stripped interior and cleaned/fixed few loose bits. Need to force myself to finally do all electrical works, battery relocation, fuel pump, boost controller (which I still need to buy) and efdc for my coilovers and also rewire few things. Then, final engine bay wash and engine will be ready to go in. Hopefully, in 4-6 weeks everything will be done. last 3 things to order are injectors, intercooler and boost controller. Ordered Greddy intercooler originally, however current lead time was too long and earliest it might be delivered is late August. So, I will get just regular HDI or Just jap and swap with plazmaman sometime in the future. Any advice on Boost controller? I will put Link ECU, so not sure if there is any benefit of going Greddy profec over standard mac solenoid. Assume both options can be tuned for flex fuel and Hi/Low boost.

Bearings were in good condition, both sides of main and rod. Lower parts are pretty much same as top, was actually surprised to see how thick they are. Pistons were burnt, but evenly burnt and no damage or deformation. Not sure if low compression came from block, might have been head. Also, comp test results were suspicious 1 - 150; 2-145; 3-140; 4-130; 5-120; 6-110. what are the chances that reputable shop did simple test wrong?

Hi guys, so finally engine is pulled apart and ready to go to machine shop tomorrow. Did few things in wrong order, which took few extra hours. Main problem was that I took all belts off and started to undo pulley bolts, when I should have loosened them first and then take belts off. That would save heaps of time. Inspected every single part and so far, everything looks ok. Leaking turbo was the only thing I could spot. Honestly, I was hoping to see damage to pistons or rings just to prove that engine rebuild was imminent. However, everything was sealed well and all rings are in ok condition. Not really sure how 20 year old good and bad piston should look like. Anyway, there is no going back at this stage 😀. Next week I will install new coilovers and start cleaning everything that came off engine. Ordered some spring clamps, radiator hose set, various vacuum hoses and fabric tape to rewrap wiring. Hopefully, i will know what parts and sizes to order for my engine and they will know exactly how much money left for all the bolt ons.

Finally engine is out, no major dramas. Wont recommend doing all of these alone, gearbox was really dodgy. So, i am planning to take break tomorrow and only buy few supplies.

Quick update, gearbox is finally on the floor and looks like engine only have few last connectors attached on the bottom, which I am planning to undo when engine is lifted a bit higher. Dont think there is anything else left to remove before engine comes out. So, hoping to get it out on Friday and spend weekend stripping it. Last bolt on top of gearbox was a real pain, took me 2-2.5 hours to get to it.

Thanks guys, not sure why I have not checked other suppliers, Golebys are few hundreds cheaper as well 😊. I am hoping to keep low mount stock manifold and not sure if its possible to get t3 to V band adapter and still fit g30 in or do I need to cut T3 and weld v band. If i am welding then might go with external gate as well. I was after g30-770, it looks like g25-660 is good for around 300rwkw if I read compression maps correctly. I was hoping to get closer to 350-400rwkw. Ive checked sizes of g30 and gtx3076, they are pretty much identical. So hope g30 with adaptor will fit. Do you think $1000-1200 will be enough to modify manifold and make v band dump pipe? Have not been to any metal fabricators, so no idea how they price things. @dose at the moment I am considering new cams, will let you know as soon as Engine package is finalised. P.s looks like i will have to stay with stock wheels for few months if Im going G turbo 😞.

Thank you, looked more into oil sump and all I could find were baffles for Rb26 which I assume are different. For 25 only found complete baffled sumps. Went back to my shed for few hours yesterday to disconnect fuel lines and remaining wiring from engine. Took driveshaft out and starter, so last thing to do is transmission, loosen all bit 2 top bolts, will need to get 14mm spanner and try to get there somehow. Hopefully engine will be out on Saturday morning and stripped during weekend. So, I will drop to machine shop on following Monday. Also, had to change few things due to budget limits. I had to choose plazmaman intercooler/plenum or suspension (controll arms/sway bars and rotors) both around 3k. Will most likely go with new plenum and intercooler. Suspension is still ok no issues, definitely want to remove Hicas. Spoke to GCG g25 and g30 series turbos are not due till at least August. So, I will go with hypergear or garret gtx3076 bolt on, plazmaman intercooler, 1000cc injectors to stock rail, walbro 460 and Link ecu mainly because I want to get rid of afm and get straight 3-4” intake pipe. Also, instead of separate gauges I was thinking about haltech ic7 dash screen. Will see when engine is assessed of what needs to be done, then check remaining budget

Hi guys, Really appreciate your help. Head torch os already charged and in my backpack 😌 Complete plan is to go cp/spool combo and main/rod bearings for block after its machined and sizes advised my machine shop, keeping 9:1 compression and suitable head gasket. After head is pulled apart and inspected, I will swap springs and maybe drop kelford’s 244-a2 264/272 cams. Looks like these should give noticeable benefit without any further modifications. Will try to keep stock valves if they are good to use. Shall I swap guides while Im at it? Thank you for oil sump baffle idea as I never looked into it and thought its only for motorsports applications. Also, I found generic diy kit for $400, looks like 4 walls and doors, will that be ok? I was planning to go with nitto head oil drain, looks like it’s relatively straightforward to install. So, I will need 2 additional holes in sump, 1 for drain and 1 for oil catch can, definitely will install restrictors and new oil pump collar, Ive read that Neo might have N1 pump, is it possible to swap gears only in old pump considering its not damaged? When engine is put together I was planning to get new belt/water pump and harmonic balancer. Update on my build, engine almost finished from engine bay side, forgot to drop fuel pressure before I started, so will go back today with small bottle and try to catch as much fuel as I can Exhaust completely out and I found out I have Greedy turbo back exhaust and not cat back. Still have to take out transmission and starter motor. Hopefully I have not forgot anything and engine will be ready to come out. And once again guys, thanks for information

Hi, if anyone will read this, I survived day 1. Spent 3 hours setting up. And 5 hours pulling car apart. Going pretty slow, since I have to figure everything out first. Trying to label everything that does not make sense and be as rational as possible. Most of the bolts are really tight and hoses are impossible to undo. Worst so far is a rubber intake on turbo side.

Привет, в сиднее 😃 а ты?

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