The Skyline Guy
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Posts posted by The Skyline Guy
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Is there a way to code the sensor from my computer? What will I need to do
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Ok, I had no idea I should change out the iat sensor at all... nor did my tuner mention it. So I should go for the Hella sensor https://www.autodoc.co.no/hella/937856 if I use the oem location? is there any adapters from oem to the hella sensor so i dont have to cut any wires? Can I "tune" in the new sensor myself or should I let my tuner do it?
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I have researched a bit and came across a this "FAE 33166" https://www.autodoc.co.no/fae/2495306?gshp=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4uCcBhDdARIsAH5jyUkvDlPnJalva3nLNelUOFAsjmuzf8U95mQYbH0MUL_tlMm2kDCc6XkaAmHQEALw_wcB
Will this fit in the original location without modification and is it plug and play or do i have to re-tune the car with this new sensor?
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On 02/12/2022 at 8:17 PM, joshuaho96 said:
Yeah you can't run that if you're using speed density. It's the exact same part as the coolant temp sensor and is incredibly slow to react. In the OEM ECU all it's used for is to detect heat soak and enrich the mix as a result.
Why do you say that I cant use it when its been fine this whole summer on my new map with link ecu?
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On 30/11/2022 at 8:20 AM, djr81 said:
Begs the question what intake air temperature are you running? Because for some models atleast (EG RB26 in an R32) it should be replaced with something less antiquated/faster responding.
- Inlet Air Temp sensor (IAT) – From factory the GTR is fitted with an IAT sensor to the inlet manifold and this is supported by the G4+ plug-in. However for best results we recommend an alternative IAT sensor to be fitted to the intercooler pipe just prior to the plenum entrance. This may use the existing IAT wiring or connect to the expansion connector of the ECU.
I got the oem inlet temp sensor
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I got a link ecu and got the following codes: 49 "An T3 at 5" and 66 "ITA at ground" Does anyone know what this means?
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Does anybody have a z-tune or nismo front bumper for r34 gtr that want to sell, or where I should buy one? Ive looked at rhdjapan but the shipping prices are insane...
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I have tried searching for a new set of press in bushings for the front transverse link because they have tears in them. I cant seem to find any bushings for the r34 gtr and now i am wondering if I need to buy the whole link/arm on both sides? Are these bushings not ment to be pressed in and out or something?
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Is there any way to get the oem gtr seats to sit a little lower while still having the luxury of moving them back and forth?
I would also like to get the oem steering wheel a little closer while it sill looking like oem.. any tips here?
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Another question I got is about engine oil. What do you think of Shell Helix Ultra 10w60 compared to Castrol Supercar 10w60? I can get the Shell oil for half the price of the Castrol oil.
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On 04/12/2021 at 11:35 PM, joshuaho96 said:
While what Duncan said is correct that the ECU you have is very much a fixed function piece of hardware, it is important to understand something. No ECU to my knowledge is ever, ever capable of dealing with a silent injector change. You must always change the injector flow rate settings in the ECU any time you change the injector characteristics substantially.
As for your Impul ECU, what kind of fuel do you have access to? If you don't have at least 100 RON gasoline in the tank you should go source a 100% stock factory ECU map, either by replacing the chip on your Impul ECU or sourcing an entire stock ECU. In California we get 91 AKI which is like 96 RON optimistically. Any Japanese chip tune ECU like that is known to destroy engines on our fuel because they run too much ignition timing. If you have the factory boost solenoid my suggestion is to unplug it and cap both ends until you get that fixed. If you think sourcing an ECU is expensive it doesn't hold a candle to having to completely rebuild an RB26 from detonation damage.
To actually get an ECU you can use to tune the car with you have to get something that can be programmed. The R34 ECU cannot be programmed easily, Nistune has some remnants of it in their Type6 board support files but something happened there and the guy working on it disappeared off the face of the earth. To do so requires a discontinued Techtom daughterboard and their 90s-era software, as detailed in this thread:
If you want to actually tune these cars you have a choice of either Haltech Elite/Nexus (don't get a Platinum Pro, it's no longer actively supported and the feature set is highly limited) or Link ECU. To get the engine to run like factory you will have to do a lot of work to the included "base map", the free base maps provided are not a one for one replication of the factory ECU map. It's just something they made so the engine will start and run but that's it. You should get whatever ECU your trusted (emphasis on trust) tuner recommends. Tuners tend to only learn one method of tuning and one brand's software suite/ECU, so buying anything else is going to be a waste of money.
RON 98 is what we got here and the car has been using it for 5 years now.
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On 04/12/2021 at 1:13 PM, Ben C34 said:
It should be fairly obvious you can't double fuel flow and expect the car to run.
Im not the most experienced, thats why I ask you guys. I somehow thought that the ecu knew how much fuel it needed and could regulate the flow... Anyway it started right back up once I put the stock injectors back in.
Looks like ive got a IMPUL ECU in my car "HI-POWER CONTROL UNIT 34GTR 4 6 8" can I just use this ECU for when I get a dyno tune with the upgraded turbos, fuel pump and injectors? Can someone tell me what I need and why?
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I just installed some Bosch 870cc injectors and now it wont start.. Will there now be a problem that it dumps too much fuel in the engine after installing bigger injectors or should it be plug and play? I thought I could at least start the car and drive it slowly to get a tune but guess not? Do I have to put my old injectors back in and install the 870cc when im at the tuner?
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On 07/10/2021 at 7:11 AM, Nick_GTR said:
For sale: 2x Garrett GT2860R -7 (R34 N1 GTR) turbos. Removed from my 34 GTR after approx 20,000km and replaced with -5's.
Turbo specs:
- Direct Replacement Twin Turbo Kit
- Internal Wastegates Included
- T25 Turbine Inlet Flange
- Standard T25 Oil Drain Flange
- Unique Compact Turbine Housing (5 Bolt Outlet)
- High-Nickel (Ni-Resist) Cast Turbine Housing
- Inconel Cast Turbine Wheel
- Oil & Water Cooled Ball Bearing System
- Rated at 320HP Each (640HP Combined)
- Genuine Garrett PartsTechnical Information:
- Turbo: 707160-7
Compressor Specifications:
- Ind: 44.5mm
- Exd: 60.0mm
- Trim: 55
- A/R: 0.42Turbine Specifications:
- Wh Dia: 53.8mm
- Trim: 62
- A/R: 0.64Retail price $2,899 from Just Jap. Will take $1,200 for the pair.
Do you still have these?
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Do you still have the turbos?
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So I just got a email from the company that i ordered -7 turbos from saying that the -7s are on back order... Are the -9 turbos the same direct bolt on with the same oil and water feed and drain as original turbos as well, just like the -7?
Are they just as good on response and power as the -7?
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On 20/11/2021 at 10:27 PM, r32-25t said:
Are you using petrol or e85
petrol, never going e85
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So if im going for the AEM 320lph in-tank fuel pump, ill need something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/182362092675?hash=item2a75a0b483:g:2yIAAOSwux5YM8ES to wire from the power for the fuel pump to the battery?
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On 17/11/2021 at 7:55 PM, joshuaho96 said:
The brushed AEM 340 lph pumps are used all over the place. They might be fine Deatschwerks, Aeromotive, etc are all using that pump I think. Keep in mind the pressure relief spec on that pump is very low, only 80 psi supposedly. So if you have excessive restriction from the fuel lines there is not a lot of margin before it pops. DW's version of that pump has a 100 psi PRV. I also don't recommend buying off ebay for everything because of the markup and also questionable sourcing for a lot of parts. Keep in mind if you run a pump that can draw 15A you need to rethink your fuel pump wiring, the factory wiring is fused for 15A and realistically you shouldn't get too close to the limit because the wiring/electronics are not really designed for big power. The factory setup has a signal coming from the ECU to switch between different resistors for the fuel pump to reduce the operating voltage of the pump at idle and part throttle. This is done to reduce the power consumption of the fuel pump, allow for a lower flow fuel pressure regulator, allow the fuel level to get lower without the pump sucking air when driving around normally, and reduces how much heat you put into the fuel. You can get away without running a fuel pump controller but with the general availability of solid state high amp relays and the sheer number of digital PWM outputs on standalone ECUs it's really not that hard to do something similar to factory. I would not replicate the dropping resistor design of the factory controller, the dropping resistor has to dissipate quite a lot of power.
Personally I think the DW 440 brushless pump is worth the extra expense/work/etc, mainly because brushless pumps can tolerate E85 much better than the traditional brushed pumps out there and they have much better high pressure characteristics, usually they go out to 125 psi for the PRV and they lose a lot less flow at higher output pressure. They also draw a lot less power for the same flow/pressure.
I just need a fuel pump that can handle 500+ hp without having to do anything but switching the old one out with a new one if that is possible?
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On 17/11/2021 at 5:09 PM, r32-25t said:
That’s the right part number but that listing looks dodgey as f**k
Youre right, how about this one? https://rawbrokerage.com/products/garrett-gt2860r-7-turbocharger?variant=15094350938185
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Just to be sure before I buy, can someone verify that this is the right -7 that I need: https://www.ebay.com/itm/303055603645
Will 340lph fuel pump work for 500+ crank hp, like this AEM one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/323980413969?epid=1217828034&hash=item4b6ebccc11:g:mH4AAOSwnxxdzcru Will this just mount right in the tank or do I need some different hoses, connections ect?
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On 11/11/2021 at 11:28 PM, r32-25t said:
-7s are the r34 n1 turbos (and the nismo r1) they are direct bolt on and will make 500hp at the wheels with e85 and cams
-9s are the same as hks gtss turbos are will bolt also bolt directly on and make the same power as the -7 (some believe with slightly better response)
the -5 is slightly smaller then the hks 2530 and are a lot more laggy then the -7/-9s, they require different oil drains that are easily sourced which then makes them a bolt on turbo and can make more like 600hp at the wheels if the rest of the set up is done right
So the -7 is the same as the original r34 gtr turbos just with bigger upgraded turbine wheels and ball bearing? Does that mean I can re-use the oil and water lines/hoses and banjo bolts?
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I hear some of you say its a no brainer going single turbo but my reason for upgrading the twins is because its cheaper, easier to do (?) and because it looks stock and therefore I wont have any problems at the MOT wich is very strict here.
On the other hand it would probably be better going single because of better power, sound and less problems overall with heat ect..
If I were to go single, what is the best turbo kit for r34 gtr out there?
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So all I need is a set of GT2860R-7 or -9 turbos and a gasket set and im good to go, or do I need oil drain adapter as mentioned by Duncan? Do I need water and oil lines as well? Maybe someone can tell me all that I need?
What is the difference in -7 and -9, which is best? Looks like its hard to get -9?
Is this the right turbo?:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303055603645
Thanks so much for helping me here, im a newbie and want to learn all that I can.
R34 GTR check engine light Link ecu
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
How do I know if the calibrations are different or not? The old sensor must have been connected