Chi-Town

So far so good, about 30km on it so far and nothing out of sorts yet thankfully

Finally back on the ground and once around the block for the first time in 2+ years

Final engine bay shot

Ok a solution was found. I had left the factory oil temp sensor in and it was hooked up. My car never had the triple gauges. Apparently when you delete the factory pressure and leave the temp sensor connected it triggers the oil light on the dashboard. Disconnected the temp sender, no more light. I still haven't gotten around to look at the diagrams to figure out how/why they are tied together.

This is kind of what I was thinking but the temp sender wire and the two pressure switch wires run through the starter subharnes and I eliminated the two pressure switch wires completely. @GTSBoy I have a can gauge with unusually bright warnings should the oil pressure fall so the factory light isn't needed. I need to dig out my wiring diagram and see if I can sort this out.

The original pressure sender (switch) had the standard connector and the temp sender had the single terminal connector also. The pressure switch is gone and those wires eliminated from the harness. I left the temp wire as I too used the temp sender to plug the extra hole. I was hoping for an easy answer but I guess I'm going to need to trace some wires to see where my ghost oil pressure light voltage is coming from or maybe I'll just pull the bulb out as there's no pressure switch any longer.

I'll sit down and get a post together 😁

The factory oil pressure sender is no longer in the car that's what is confusing me. In the Taarks adapter I have an aftermarket Bosch style pressure/temp sender and the factory temp sender only. Oil pressure is perfect. Where does the factory oil temp sender go to if there were never any gauges? Why was it there from the factory?

So like the title says my 97 rs4v has a oil temp sensor but no triple gauges as it was originally factory navigation. My current setup is not using the factory oil pressure sensor as I'm running a link ecu and a real sensor. I did leave the oil temp sensor in. So now as I was working on first start up and bleeding coolant I get the oil light on the dash faintly as the oil temp gets to about 60-70c. Oil pressure is 45psi at idle at the same time. I'm wondering if the temp sender doing this?

Well it runs again! This was a definite case of while I have it apart lol Everything except the body and interior has been restored, refinished, or replaced. @socal_stagea is my IG if you're bored and want to see all the pics.

Block is complete. HKS 2.8 step 2 with the BCD pistons. Next is the head. Step 2 V-cam with the full Monty 😂

@Kip It is nice seeing the finish line in sight finally. Unfortunately when I imported it the 99' 5mt RS4S cars weren't legal here and a 260RS was out of my price range. Honesty the 5mt swap wasn't hard itself, it was just sourcing all the parts. @epstein Duncan is the one that actually gave me the info on the R34 console. I used a GRID digital G-sensor and mounted it on the underside of the factory g-sensor bracket and it cleared the pocket in the center console.

Haven't updated this is a while. -5 speed conversion is done. Then center console, parking brake handle, and mounting bracket can be adapted from a R34 since the S2 parts are all disco. Console is a slightly different grain pattern and color but works fine. R33/ R34 GTS (no booster) clutch pedal works as well as the matching master cylinder. Wiring is simple, jump the starter connector at the fuse box, note which wires are connected at which position on the auto neutral safety switch and cut off the switch harness and connect to the corresponding switch on the 5 speed. -Rear R34 rear subframe swap is completed. Full Nismo arm set, 2-way LSD set up soft, 322mm Brembo brakes, Ohlins Flag-R coil overs (need to drop the spring rate 1Kg) -RB swap is under way. HKS Step 2 High Response 2.8 BCD stroker kit / Step 2 V-Cam / GTIII 4R Kit I may not use the 4R kit but not sure yet as I've seen some pretty decent dyno sheets on it and it doesn't spool as slow as people think when you have v-cam. I have the wiring manual for the car and a spare 260RS harness so the wiring shouldn't be that bad but I just haven't had the time to invest in it. If anyone has a suggestion for someone who can handle it let me know! I have a bunch of spare 5mt swap parts and some Nismo 580 turbos if anyone needs/wants them hit me up. Located in California but willing to ship. As always, thanks to all the members who have answered my questions and helped this project keep moving!

Ok these are the connectors I'm stuck on. The one is near the ECU and the other are behind the air box. Anyone pin these out before? Thanks!

I said in the post that it wasn't financially reasonable for most people but there are those people with deep pockets (not me!🤣)