Mussy
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Posts posted by Mussy
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5 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Nah, actually it's fine. I had a little look see at the stock** timing map, and in the conditions you were running, 3700rpm and no load, 50 is actually the correct value.
** Stock, but stretched on both the load and rpm axis. But the values in the main part of the map are essentially the same as stock.
Glad you sent this got me thinking about cambelts and all sorts 😂 so i guess everything is fine but still no cold start high idle arggghh
only thing left to do now is compare data from an actual r34 gtt turbo and compare
there must be something i must have missed out 🙈 hope its not ome of these posts where there is no result 😂
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Just now, Mussy said:
🙈🙈🙈 dont have a clue with timing, any suggestions?
What would cause this?
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8 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
If you want something to be concerned about.....what about the timing? 48 degrees at 3700 rpm seems a little.....much?
🙈🙈🙈 dont have a clue with timing, any suggestions?
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O2 bouncing lean and rich
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1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:
Nah. My neutral switch is working and the ECU doesn't give 2 shits whether it's in Neutral or not (when it comes to idle speed, that is).
Might be more the case that your knock sensor is telling fibs and making the ECU freak out and pull timing. Have you verified the actual timing at the crank?
I think you should hook up a Consult scanner of some sort (an actual scanner or USB software one like NissDataScan) and see what the ECU is doing. You will be able to see what timing it is commanding, how many "steps" it is putting out to the IACV, and various other things that might be instructive. Not taking advantage of the fact that you can connect to the ECU and see this stuff is really making it hard on diagnosis of weird shit like this.
Good point, as i had to re wire the knock sensor plugs, not sure if i switched them while wiring left on right and right in left. Timing will check and get onto datascan. Thank you guys 😎
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2 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:
That's one pretty random trouble shooting dude.
😂 cant give up now will update, waiting on diagnostic cable so can check values also
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Hi guys mights have found something, started engine when cold removed the plug for the gearbox speed sensor, knock sensor neutral sensor, idle went up higher which is what i need.
possible chance car doesnt think its in neutral?
will have to dig deeper
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42 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Have you opened the bleed screw on top while running and observed coolant flowing through there?
Yes coolant is flowing, have bleed from both screws one on thermostat and one on idle control. Coolant is flowing smooth without any air. There is no blockage as used air line and water was instantly coming out of all pipes.
This is a tricky one 🙈
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3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
Have you followed my other recommendation? Coolant flow?
Hi yes fully cleaned, will remove today again and clean, have noticed when setting idle learn when i connect the tps plug revs increase ever so slightly,
will be checking neutral switch to pin 39 on ecu to ensure this is wired
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Hi alot of trouble shooting later, repaced the dump valve back to standard idles better no cutting off, still no cold start, changed iacv, coilpacks, theottle body, iat sensor, as inahve two sets of everything still no change.
now i may think it is ecu related as the ecu installed into r34 is from a neo stage 4wd rb25det but it is auto my car is manual from factory.
Thanks for the reply guys dont know how to
reapons individually yet 🙈
attached is picture of ecu
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sorry guys dont know how to respond to comments on here thanks for the wiring diagram, im confused as i have r34 gtt here with fuel resistor so i assumed i would need it for this car also.
it seems to be working just fine just want to be on safe side. Just need to sort this cold start issue out need it to idle high and then come down once warm
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Unplugging iacv doesnt do anything no change
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Hi there is power to idle control valve, issue is no cold start, it starts at 900rpm and will stay there.
changed idle control with another same issue
injector resistor is found on gtt models and stagea. Gt four non existent, with this car now turbo would it need this wiring in
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Hi, was wondering if anyone can help with my issue would be much appreciated.
r34 gt4 4wd non turbo originally
installed stagea 2.5 turbo 4wd engine into r34
got it running just fine with some niggly issues
few questions
idles at 900rpm cold or hot, ideally when cold should idle high and then drop. It sits consistently no missfire or cut off. Power to idle control valve is present, tps set correctly, diagnostics code 55 no faults. No engine light also.
currently using stagea turbo ecu would that cause a conflict?
injector resistor, not installed is this important? Will it need to be installed?
4wd light is on also , front abs sensors need replacing as they broke and are not on vehicle hence abs light is also on.
Thank you in advance any support would really appreciate.
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Hi yes correct , have both 😎
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Hi did you ever finish this?
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Hi thanks for the reply, doing a conversion to r34, thought maybe would get it up and running on current setup might be easier then replace with aftermarket.
As this engine has single turbo conversion, 800cc injectors, hks pro v ecu linked into standard ecu. Has no airflow meters, The standard ecu got water damaged.
based on above tuning parts thinking would be easier to source ecu plug in and start, or would i be better to get aftermarket ecu and teach the above mods, sorry not sure on aftermarket ecu 🙈
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Currently done this project converted to rb25det, in gt four. Really easy.
now in the process of converting the other gt4 into rb26 what s headache 😂
actually stuck on wiring as it is from 260rs stagea the loom and ecu
Both were r34 2.5 na manual coupe
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Based in The UK require this ecu any for sale?
Stagea Workshop Manual
in Wagoneers
Posted
Hi need stagea 260rs ecu pin outs couldnt find on the manual could you help thanks