[Link G4X GTTLink questions, MAP Boost Solenoid]

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

You've done it wrong. I don't have time right now to type up enough. I'll have to come back to it or maybe someone else will in the meantime.

The boost signal has to pass through the MAC valve from boost source (turbo outlet - effectively anywhere between the turbo outlet and the throttle body will do, but closer to the turbo outlet is best) to the wastegate. What you have done is connected it sort of like the stock solenoid. But it doesn't work the same way as the stock solenoid. That Tee piece that you have connected the solenoid to....? The solenoid itself serves that function.

You should look up a typical MAC valve connection diagram for a single turbo internal wastegate application. You'll find one easily enough. Every single boost controller manufacturer that uses MAC valves will have one. Bugger it, I'll just grab the HP Academy one.

The other thing you have to get right is that the boost source has to be connected to the correct port on the solenoid valve. This is because the solenoid makes the valve switch from connecting 2 of the ports when it is unpowered, to connecting one of those first 2 ports to the third port when it is powered. One inlet, two outlets. You will note from the diagram that the common port is port 3, the port to the wastegate is port 2, and port 1 is the vent (where the boost signal escapes when the solenoid pulses ON).

As to the BOV.... the vacuum signal for the BOV simply has to come from the plenum. It must register boost when you're on boost and vacuum when the throttle is closed. That's all. The original location on the plenum is best.

Best practice is never to interfere with the vacuum line running to the FPR. Just leave that one alone, as you will avoid causing unintended problems that might occur if you mess something up.

Thank you for explaining. Makes more sense now. I saw that diagram but wasnt sure if the MAC solenoid would use the same plumbing. So I just did what the stock looked like. Ill get that fixed.

I even saw this image

As for MAP sensor, When I place vacuum line from MAP to stock location vac reference ( port by BOV flange ) the car runs like crap. I think the port is clogged or something, cause when I moved the MAP line to plenum and connected the BOV to that line, I get compressor surge. This is why I moved MAP vacuum line to plenum where BOV is. Where can I T the MAP vacuum? Sources Ive read said to let MAP vacuum be its own and not to T.

[Link G4X GTTLink questions, MAP Boost Solenoid]

I was able to complete installation of the G4X ecu. I needed to reroute MAP vacuum signal from stock location to where BOV is connected on the intake plenum. Has anyone needed to do the same? When I connect vac port by the BOV flange to my HKS BOV, it doesnt work and I get flutter. I would to get BOV working, where would it be best to T in? Or would it best for me to move MAP vac line and T into FPR? Secondly, I installed a MAC 3 port boost solenoid and wanted to know if i routed it correctly. I place two lines from stock boost solenoid and placed it on ports 1 and 2, leaving 3 vented. The T for wastegate and boost source on compressor elbow is on port 2, and port 1 is connected to turbo inlet intake pipe. Please see attached pictures. Ill upload ecu config later today. Thanks in advance.

[Ignition coil upgrade]

Will do thank you 

[Ignition coil upgrade]

On 4/18/2024 at 10:30 PM, GTSBoy said:

What car? What ECU?

R34 GTT and stock ECU. I have a link ECU waiting to be installed.

[Ignition coil upgrade]

I just did the R35 coil pack conversion with Hitachi coils. Now I'm getting TCS, slip and cel lights on. Car runs great and better than before on factory coil packs. Has anyone else ran into this issue? 

[RB25DET-Neo Loud "Whining/Wirring" Engine-Noise, Timing Belt?]

On 3/27/2024 at 10:40 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

On 3/27/2024 at 10:40 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Replace the Gates belt with an OEM belt, no more noise.

Or just suck it up and wait for the Gates belt to soften up a bit.

Doesnt sound as bad as some of the videos Ive seen on youtube. Ill wait a bit then.

On 3/27/2024 at 11:38 PM, GTSBoy said:

The day an RB needs any belt more fancy than a Pitwork belt is the day I eat one.

Didnt do much research on which belt to use tbh. I just bought the first water pump timing belt kit I saw.

Thanks a bunch

[RB25DET-Neo Loud "Whining/Wirring" Engine-Noise, Timing Belt?]

Thread bump as mine is making a similar sound. Changed water pump, cam and crank seals, gates racing belt, idle and tension bearings, tension spring, new crank gear/washer/bolt. On a cold engine the sound isn't as loud but warmed up it whines alot. All searching here points to a tight belt, can this be done without draining coolant and removing radiator? Thanks in advance. 

[370z LSD differential swap into R34 GTT]

1 hour ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Will need the s14/15 gktech bush kit, 370z axels and gtr/z32tt hub/bearing.

The diff will sit lower than current setup and depending how low your car is axel angles will be weird and may damage cv's.

I think my old rb25 would sit around 2800-3000rpm doing those speeds with 4.11 gear so nothing wrong there. A s14/15 diff may be a better swap as a 3.69/3.7/3.9 ratio and will bolt in pending whether you have abs/non abs car and 5x1/2x3 axels.

 

50 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Do shit properly. Put the gears you want onto the centre you want in the housing you need to use, with the stub axles that will work in your car.

Whole Z3x series swap is lazy and wrong, as Rob describes.

 

Thanks for the input. Just saw the diff available locally and was wondering how much effort needed to fit. Since I was looking to add an lsd. s14 diffs would be easier to source than s15 in Hawaii. Car has abs.

[370z LSD differential swap into R34 GTT]

Hello, new user here and new owner of a '98 ER34 4 door. Located in Hawaii. I've tried searching the web but only found some old info on 350z diff swaps. I see that GKTech offers diff conversion bushings for S/R chassis to 350/370z diff. The main reason Im looking to swap is because in 5th gear, going 110-120km or 60-70mph, rpm is at 3k or more. I believe the gtt manual diff ratio is 4.11. The diff that is available locally to me is a 370z diff w/lsd, so ratio is 3.6 ( need to check if auto or manual). Has anyone performed this swap? Do the stock axles bolt on? I know I need to drill diff flange to match driveshaft. Thanks in advance

[R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice]

Adapters came in. Got them from Caold Technology in Australia. 20mm in the front and 15mm in the rear. Front looks like it could take another 5mm. Work Mesiter S1 3P 18x9.5 and 18x10.5 +49. Coilovers are Blitz, may go lower a bit but the exhaust is already scraping alot of driveways. 😂 

[R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice]

On 12/4/2023 at 12:14 PM, GTSBoy said:

I don't think that that's your only worry.

First up, it's not a problem in itself. If it happens, you just put shorter studs into the original hubs.

Secondly....to try to fit a 10.5" wheel on the back of an R34 is an exercise in getting the offset absolutely perfect. You'd want to be damn sure (measure it yourself 20 times) before committing. Because you don't have the option to do anything except just throw that wheel onto the (probably only choice of) hub adapter, you only have one outcome. Either it fits or it fouls and you probably can't do anything about it if it fouls (beyond guard mods, perhaps coilovers, whatever it takes to find the required space).

 

Just trying to make wheels I already have work. If I cant get the rears to fit properly, Im looking to get Okubo Factory rear fender flares. The adapters have been ordered from Caold in Australia. So itll take a bit to get to me in Hawaii.

On 12/10/2023 at 6:26 PM, GoHashiriya said:

I'm running 18x10 +20mm rear on an R34 2 door GTT and it's too wide. It works, just, with 265/23 tyres and rolled fenders. But it would be about perfect at +25mm offset. If I were buying the wheels again - bought originally for my 350z - I would opt for 9.5 rear then f*ck around with a 5mm spacer if necessary. 

Edit: I should add that the coupe has about +10mm body width at the rear fenders.

Thanks for the specs and pic. So my 10.5x18 at +20mm definitely wont fit. Lol. Lucky I ordered a pair of 15mm and 20mm adapters. Ill keep this post updated Once I get them.

[R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice]

Hi, new to the forum. Just got a '98 R34 GTT Sedan. Looking to swap out wheels. Is anyone running hub adapters? Looking to fit a set of work meister s1 3p, 18x8.5x10.5 +49. Tires are slightly stretched. Bolt pattern is 5x130 ( they were on my Porsche 944 turbo ). If I get 19mm adapters that go from 5x114 to 5x130 that should give me 20mm offset, correct? My only worry here is if the stock hub studs would be too long, hitting the back of the rim, popping out of the hub adapters. Does anyone know the length the stock hub studs stick out from rotors? Just trying to see if I can make this work. Thanks in advance.