MidnightR32

Sorry if it wasn't clear, I retested right after getting home and the car was still hot.

Thanks for the suggestion of being on it. As the car has a break in tune, I went and hit 10psi a few times while driving, drove it kind of like a jack ass for ~1.5 hours, did another test, and all 6 cylinders were at/just below 125PSI. I took photos of it this time as I only my memory to remember seeing 150psi. As for the ones that were low, my battery is kind of shot and dies pretty quickly if not charged, so I'm going to assume I just didn't let them build up enough compression or the battery didn't have the power. The 150psi for #4 is definitely odd, but having no photo proof, I'm just going to make note of it. I'll retest it again when the car is cold to see where things are, but everything is insync now so 🤷‍♀️

The first hour or so was not on a dyno, but 2 of them were on a dyno and it was pushed hard enough to get tuned.

Nope and I only have myself to blame here. I hired the shop and didn't do my due diligence.

This is for an RB20DET. Sorry for not including that.

Welp, this is where my compression lands after my rebuild. Thoughts? I have ~6 hours on the motor.

how would I do that?

It was the wideband. 🤦‍♂️

Update on the car... I took video of about 9 minutes of it running, shortly after start up, and the car sounds OK? I replaced the ATS and confirmed that the new/old one are showing warming than freezing teamptures. I will replace the wideband tomorrow, but maybe this video can give some insight. Logs of warmup - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bpvfmsLfZEjg_rBZw8IseAuM3iWq3BGN/view?usp=sharing

Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.

Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?

Unless my sensor just died, was only a couple months old, I strongly believe it didn't. How can I test it? I never mentioned it being 20:1+?

I have one and it was at ~43.5PSI.

I've uploaded logs / the current map to Gdrive if anyone has any ideas. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1FPnr22Z-EilG7tYdHSi0Qb07P2jfFLKV?usp=sharing

I'm running a Haltech Platinum Pro with the stock map for the RB20DET + tweaks for my build. When I started it this morning, the IAT was at 32F/0C (Outside temp was ~42F) and the AFRs went off the scale for my AEM gauge. I let it run for ~30 seconds then turned it off. I then did a smoke test, by hooking into a vacuum line directly behind the throttle body, and confirmed there was no leaks ( i let the smoke tester run for ~5 minutes / confirmed it was generating smoke before hand ). I then started the car again, after fixing a power steering leak.... and it seemed to be happy for ~30 seconds (was at ~11/12), but then seemingly shot back up to ~18 again. I then let the car run for a few minutes, thinking this was just cold start related, but the AFRs never came back down. I didn't let the car fully warm up, so maybe this makes sense, but I'm not sure what to do? The AFRs, when I last ran it, were normal, but because of personal reasons I haven't been able to break in the car. It was rebuilt last year. Engine / Mod list: Supertec pistons Spool rods Kelford 270 cams and Springs Stock crank Deatschwerks 900cc injectors Walbro 255 (Wired directly to the battery relocated in the trunk) NKG Audi R8 Coil packs + Conversion Harnesses from Wiring Specialties Holset HY35 turbo Haltech Platinum Pro ECU Haltech boost controller (wired in for high boost RB25 Neo transmission + needed bits for the speedo to work