pacman_1219

Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc. I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.

Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply. It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car. Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?

Not sure what you mean by electronic speedo drive. Speedo reads fine up to 180 yes.

There's a pdf on this forum for the wiring. When I did my manual swap I followed this wiring section on the pdf and the auto speedo works as it should.

Nah I did not will have to another time. I only installed a blitz return flow FMIC probably 1000kms ago. When I took the old piping off there was basically no oil in piping. At this stage it has to be valve stem seals. When I roll down a big hill in gear and then throttle down the bottom, I get the same puff of smoke.

Update Got turbo back from hypergear, installed everything etc. Bled coolant, wasn't smoking so I thought beauty she's sorted now. Went on a drive, car up to temp, let it idle for about 15 seconds, gave it some gas...nice puff of smoke again. Fml No doubt my turbo was pretty worn anyway but nonetheless frustrating that the problem persists.

I see... Any idea how much fab work is required? I note the Hygear megathread but its like 900 pages

At this point I'm just 'hoping' it's the turbo seals. I did speak to someone who said it's normal for these turbos to have a bit of axial play? Not gonna lie I've never checked a turbo for axial play before but you could hear it tapping a bit as I moved it back and forth. Surely that's too much? My theory is (could be completely wrong), bad axial play, worn bearings, bad seals, oil into dump/compressor side, burns in exhaust = blue smoke. On a timing belt related note, my crank pulley was missing that front plate that sits in front of the timing belt. It's that metal round plate. It did have the rear one, and the woodruff keys are in the crank which was nice. Can anyone confirm if the NEO det engine has a front plate, im sure it would to protect the front of the timing belt or something. Water pumps...the pump I got was an NPW (yes grill me if I should've got a genuine one lol). It has a smooth mating surface, kit came with a pretty pathetic looking paper gasket. Do I need to use any RTV or just trust the gasket will work because its a smooth mating surface? Cheers legends have a good Easter break!

Cheers man, I thought the same. Bit of an update on it all. It was definitely blue smoke, not grey after all. It didn't really smell oily but it was blue after all. Also puffing just the smallest amount on idle with no throttle. I ended up pulling the intake and exhaust off and there was around 3mm of axial play on the turbo shaft. So I figured we'll that's buggered and sent it off to get hi-flowed at hypergear. Haven't got it back yet. I haven't compression tested it yet. Had a look in the cylinder and cylinder 1 spark plug, looked a bit sooty but not oily. Then I've just started doing my timing belt because it's age is unknown.

Good question, I don't really know tbh...I'm pretty stock thought, where could I check this?

Cheers man, I'm almost a little bit relieved in a way. Let the trouble shooting begin!

Not gonna lie my sense of smell isn't the best. But it does look more grey to me. It doesn't smell like oil, friend says it smells like fuel.

Evening all. Got this odd issue with my R34 GTT. If I let the car idle for around 15 seconds or more (even when cold) and I jab the throttle a bit, a decently sized plume of blue/grey smoke comes out the exhaust. Doesn't smoke when idling alone, just when giving it some gas after idling. No smoke on cold start or from what I know, normal driving. Not 100% sure about smoke on decel but I don't think there's any. Any pointers on what I should start doing to troubleshoot it? Or if anyone has experienced the same I'd love to get some insight. Cheers.

Can confirm I've had that speedo issue on my GTT. Cluster was from an NA car, all other gauges worked perfectly except the speedo. Get a cluster from a turbo and it should be ok. You can actually swap out the individual gauges on the cluster which I thought is pretty neat.